Flat Pads vs CCS Pads

[rouxster]

What's the difference between the flat pads and the CCS pads (besides the obvious visual differences) with the grooves cut in them? Is there a time when you would use a flat pad in place of a CCS pad or vice versa?

[parttimer]

CCS pads hold product as you work, helps dispense as you go, probably better choice for SMAT products, DAT you want to use up and finish the product down. I used CCS with menz 2500 and found it didn't work very well as it kept dropping more product on the finish and chunking up. I switched to a hydo tech pad an what a difference with the DAT compound. I've not used a true "flat" pad, only the hydro's which I just ordered another dozen of. I think I will actually phase out my CCS pads since I have been using them more and more.

[Just02896]

^^^This!^^^

I've also made the switch to Hydrotech pads since I mostly use Menzerna compounds and polishes. The CCS pads don't finish out well with diminishing compounds.

[Mike@DedicatedPerfection]

Ryan, if you really want to match your setup, post what pads and polishes you are using. Then we can go from there.

[WRAPT C5Z06]

Rotary and 3401, go with CCS pads. The CCS pads may be a bit smoother with these tools. Random Orbitals, go with flat pads. JMO.

[Mike Phillips]

I'm part of the flat earth or flat pad society.

Flat pads maintain 100% of the pad face in contact with the paint - This in turn provides your choice of abrasive technology, whatever it is, will be in 100% contact with the paint.

A flat face desing to a pad means no place for unwanted dirt or abrasive particles to become trapped.

Easier to clean in any fashion.

That's off the top of my head. That said, pad design is the least important factor as it relates to your results.

First is abrasive technology. The stuff abrading the delicate, scratch-sensitive and precious thin clear coat.

Second is technique.

Third would be tool choice. This is the wild card because I'm assuming in a perfect scenario, the right for the tool is available and being used.

Forth is pad type. Specifically, as it relates to "foam pads". Both face design and in some cases pad thickness.



:)

[Mike Phillips]

What's the difference between the flat pads and the CCS pads (besides the obvious visual differences) with the grooves cut in them? Is there a time when you would use a flat pad in place of a CCS pad or vice versa?


They are both open cell foam formulas. These offer the most tensile strength and for this reason they will tend to take more wear-n-tear while lasting longer.

Open cell means water/air can move through them easier, this means they are easier to clean with water, i.e. flushing residues out of the pad. Supposedly, open cell will run cooler because air can move through them.

I don't see much opportunity for air to move through a high speed spinning pad that in most cases is being compressed with downward pressure.

I do see that closed cell foam retains liquids better than open cell foam and liquids retain heat better than air.


In most cases, which type of pad is better is personal preference, like Coke and Pepsi.



:)

[AutowerxDetailing]

Tons of good info already posted ^^^

I would just add that CCS pads are SOMETIMES desirable due to the non-tapered edge which allows you to get closer to emblems, door handles, etc. unlike the flat pads with the tapered edge. I use both flat and CCS but I find myself reaching mostly for flats or MF nowadays.

[FUNX650]

What's the difference between the flat pads and the CCS pads (besides the obvious visual differences) with the grooves cut in them?
Is there a time when you would use a flat pad in place of a CCS pad or vice versa?
Flat foam pads...I consider to be "the original" foam pads.
To me they work wonderfully on flat panel surfaces...the flatter the better.

CCS foam pads...Technically: foam pads that are still flat-faced, so to speak,
but with those "dimples"---for their already listed/mentioned attributes.

And...To the best of my recollection:
They were developed to use at the OEM-level on the "newer, harder CC-paints"...
the paints that require longer polishing times to remove defects.
They have been passed on down the line, so to speak.

Their design helps in reducing the "drying-out effects" that I've seen in more "conventionally designed"
foam pads. I've found this is especially true for water-based polishes/compounds.

I've experienced less heat build-up at higher speeds with CCS foam pads.
As well as: Less pad skipping with this particular foam pad design.

:)

Bob

[rouxster]

Wow, I don't know why I didn't see the replies to this thread back in December. Lots of good information.


Ryan, if you really want to match your setup, post what pads and polishes you are using. Then we can go from there.

So, I'm using the Wolfgang twins and I have a GG 6" with LC CCS pads in orange, blue, and white. I have the DA mostly for swirl removal right now.

I also use the Klasse twins - only use KSG after the Wolfgang finishing glaze. I won't be using the DA with Klasse, but I might switch over to Colonite 845 once I'm done with Klasse - only becasue I hear so many good things about Colonite, I want to see what all the excitement is about. In that case I will need to get a red pad - probably CCS since I'm used to CCS pads.