Using M205 and Finish Pad = Cleanser?

[weekendwarrior]

Polishing removes clear, so paint cleaning lotions and chemical sprays are made to assist in removing prior sealants and waxes. After reading a few threads on removal, it seems some sealants may not come off with Dawn and IPA as previously thought.

So, any harm, besides polishing oils behind left behind, in using M205 and a finishing pad or wax pad to remove sealants?Thinking speed 3-4, only 2-3 passes , not much weight on a PC7424XP should do it.

Would this remove too much clear if you did it 2-3 times per year? Would it remove any clear?

After 205 , plan would be to THEN use something like Eraser to remove polish oils before trying a new sealant.

Why do this?
I have a large amount M205 , would like to use it up before buying another product (like a cleanser). Like to ensure surface has no prior product on it before trying a new one.

[spiralout462]

The general consensus is that using a fine cut polish like M205 on a regular basis (2-4 time a year) will not remove much clear at all. I believe using an abrasive polish is the only way to ensure complete removal of a synthetic sealant or coating.

[weekendwarrior]

Thanks! Anyone know how much...or little...would be needed by M205 on a light cut or no cut pad? 2-3 section passes on speed 3 PC 7424XP enough to remove sealant and leave clear mostly alone? Less/more?

[Tato]

Hi,

I don't think 2-3 section passes on speed 3 with a no cut pad would be enough... Maybe after compounding, those 3 passes with finishing pad would improve your finish to a show car finish.

Those 'oils' maybe 'compatible' with any Meg's LSP, however I don't think it's the case with many others LSP. I mean, if you're going to use LSP like Wolfgang Deep Gloss Sealant, you could use Paintwork Polish Enhancer, or Finishing glaze as a Finishing Polish. If using a paint coating (like Pinnacle Black Label), PBL Cleansing Polish or DP Coating Prep polish, I mean, try to get synergetic at least with your last products to improve Wax/Sealant/Coat binding to surface as much as possible.

To polish properly (expecting polishing properties of M205) I believe you should use a polishing pad (white LC flat/CCS, tangerine HT, etc).

Kind Regards.

[AutowerxDetailing]

Thanks! Anyone know how much...or little...would be needed by M205 on a light cut or no cut pad? 2-3 section passes on speed 3 PC 7424XP enough to remove sealant and leave clear mostly alone? Less/more?

Your described polishing process would probably remove such a small amount of paint it wouldn't even register the difference on a PTG. A durable sealant *might* remain in the microscopic pores and fissures of the paint system since you wouldn't really be leveling the paint down very much. I think if your main goal is film build preservation and you absolutely MUST remove the previous LSP then your plan is ideal.

[weekendwarrior]

Hi,

I don't think 2-3 section passes on speed 3 with a no cut pad would be enough... Maybe after compounding, those 3 passes with finishing pad would improve your finish to a show car finish.

Those 'oils' maybe 'compatible' with any Meg's LSP, however I don't think it's the case with many others LSP. I mean, if you're going to use LSP like Wolfgang Deep Gloss Sealant, you could use Paintwork Polish Enhancer, or Finishing glaze as a Finishing Polish. If using a paint coating (like Pinnacle Black Label), PBL Cleansing Polish or DP Coating Prep polish, I mean, try to get synergetic at least with your last products to improve Wax/Sealant/Coat binding to surface as much as possible.

To polish properly (expecting polishing properties of M205) I believe you should use a polishing pad (white LC flat/CCS, tangerine HT, etc).

Kind Regards.

FYI Goal is paint cleansing not polish.

[weekendwarrior]

Your described polishing process would probably remove such a small amount of paint it wouldn't even register the difference on a PTG. A durable sealant *might* remain in the microscopic pores and fissures of the paint system since you wouldn't really be leveling the paint down very much. I think if your main goal is film build preservation and you absolutely MUST remove the previous LSP then your plan is ideal.

Thank you, this is what I was thinking. I'd follow with eraser or sijilar wipedown.

[jankerson]

Thanks! Anyone know how much...or little...would be needed by M205 on a light cut or no cut pad? 2-3 section passes on speed 3 PC 7424XP enough to remove sealant and leave clear mostly alone? Less/more?

M205 will remove whatever sealant or wax is on the finish and polish it while it's doing it. The finish will be ready to apply a wax or sealant.

You could use Megs M34 Finial Inspection to wipe down the surface or do an Mineral Spirits wipe-down.

M205 and M34 are body shop safe products...

I would use the finishing pad or a light polishing pad on Speed 4 doing 4 section passes as M205 has a long working time.

[mg6045]

I would suggest to you to use the DP coating prep polish if your dead set on using something with no abrasives. It does a better job than any non abrasive paint cleaner I have ever used. In contrast if you want to use a glazing paint cleaner, I have found that the Sonus paint cleaner is the best one available on Autogeek. I think it has some extremely fine abrasives in it though from the product description on the bottle. Either way this product pulls dirt almost as well as the DP coating prep polish and is a very wet product that wipes off cleanly.

If you want to be absolutely sure you are removing everthing off the top layer, such as sealant, or wax or semi-coatings without question then M205 is your best bet. It works extremely fast, is a very wet product and wipes off clean. Its something I would use if I wanted to be 100 sure I was getting too a clean surface. But its very oily and you will want to remove all of that before applying a sealant. (which is why I suggested DP Prep Polish instead).

[swanicyouth]

What your wanting to do is what I've done before. The best way to go about it IMO is to use a product designed to do just that. One of the best is Poor Boy''s Pro Polish on a finishing pad. It is abrasive free and is a very high quality product. Or, you can use a paint cleaner that will work with a DA. There are many. I wouldn't be into using a polish just to remove LSP, when there are less aggressive products that will do the same thing.

Also, if you use an abrasive free polish, your pads TEND to stay cleaner longer IMO - as, your not abrading any clear coat off the paint. You also don't run the risk of it not "finishing down" perfect.

[jankerson]

FYI Goal is paint cleansing not polish.

What is the LSP you are planning on using?

As I posted before M205 will do what you want and I recommend going over the finish with M34 after.

[Russ57]

I wonder how important it really is? I mean this as an honest question from a beginner.

So many people have used something they "thought" removed all traces of LSP, products we now have reason to doubt removed all traces, and yet nobody felt their work was compromised.

Could it be that the only time you are compromising things is when you put a sealant/coating over a nuba wax? Traditional wax shouldn't be too hard to remove. We know nuba goes over sealant/coatings just fine.

One reason I ask is I seem to have picked the one sealant with the worst protective lifespan out there, Megs NXT tech wax. So one of these days I would like to be sure I got it all off when I get around to finding and applying a good sealant.

[weekendwarrior]

Its important if you want the best bond on a new sealant and especially a semi permanent coating. For a coating you want a real polish/correction for gloss anyway.

Some of us like trying different LSPs every month or two. Some sealants don't come off that easily...a cleaner is recommended then. I'd like to avoid buying more products and use up my M205.

Who am I kidding...I'll probably buy Pro polish , Sonas, DP paint prep and a few more during the memorial day sale...

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

[Rmd]

I also subscribe to the concept of paint cleaning prior to periodic glaze and carnuba. I have used Pinnacle paint cleansing lotion with a black pad which works very well. I have used Dodo's lime prime light also with black pad; its effective, but the product is quite watery and I prefer the Pinnacle. I recently picked up CG's FP-Final Polish, which despite being named polish is more of a paint cleaner. Haven't used it yet, might get into it later today with a black pad.

[cardaddy]

Yeah I'd think 205 with a no cut pad, or a very light cut pad would do a decent job of 'cleaning' the surface. Guess it depends more on HOW LONG the LSP you're removing has been on the surface than anything else. :dunno:

I know that between IPA, Eraser, and 205 with a finishing pad plus/or another wipe with Eraser that the finish should be pretty darned clean. :props: