Opti-Coated Wheel Failure? See pics.

[Radarryan]

I am wondering if my Opti-Coated wheels are experiencing coating failure. These wheels were coated about a year ago, when the car was bought brand new. The initial process was the wheels were washed with SONAX wheel cleaner, then rinsed, then decontaminated with an IPA solution. After that, the coating was applied and allowed to sit for a few days without driving.

The other day, I noticed that there were very few beads on the barrel of the wheel. Now, I know that beading is not the only sign that a product is there, such as if the surface is contaminated with surfactants from the various cleaners used to clean my wheels. This particular time the wheels were cleaned with Chemical Guys Diablo, diluted to 1:5. The pictures were after a through rinsing and drying. Then, I sprayed the wheels again and took the pictures.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/medium/image251.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/medium/image252.jpg

As you can see, there is only a small section where the water is beading - the rest of the areas just look like the water is pooling. Are these characteristics that of Opti-Coat failure?

If they are, what would be the best way for re-coating? Can I just clean the area with GTechniq Panel Wipe or CarPro Eraser (those are the two I have on hand, plus IPA), and then apply the coating to the wheels? Since they are clear coated aluminum that is fairly new and well taken care of (the car has less than 3,000 miles on it - I know, I know, I need to drive more!) there are no visible swirls, scratches, or defects.

Thank you for your help. Especially since the weather is getting cold, I want to make sure that the wheels will be as easy to clean as possible!

Feed back please and happy detailing!

[richy]

Did you do it yourself? Prep is crucial. A product like Squeaky Clean or Eraser goes a long way to ensure a successful bond. I've only ever used the Pro version too, which is thicker. Get yourself some Permanon for the time being. You can apply it and then blow it off so you'll get the barrels done and everything.

[stilltipping3]

Did you do it yourself? Prep is crucial. A product like Squeaky Clean or Eraser goes a long way to ensure a successful bond. I've only ever used the Pro version too, which is thicker. Get yourself some Permanon for the time being. You can apply it and then blow it off so you'll get the barrels done and everything.


Richey, do u like the Permenon? Whats a good comparison to it?

[Radarryan]

Did you do it yourself? Prep is crucial. A product like Squeaky Clean or Eraser goes a long way to ensure a successful bond. I've only ever used the Pro version too, which is thicker. Get yourself some Permanon for the time being. You can apply it and then blow it off so you'll get the barrels done and everything.

Yes, I did do the prep myself. I have done a total of four vehicles with it, so I'm fairly confident in my process, but then again anything can happen. Coatings are so finicky. I the meantime, I have some leftover C1 that I can coat the wheels with. When it gradually stops becoming effective I can always re coat with Opti-Coat or any wheel coating that is out in a year.

Thanks for the response. Happy detailing!

[richy]

Richey, do u like the Permenon? Whats a good comparison to it?
I like it a lot for several reasons: Unbelievable Slickness; The only product you can spray on and then blow off (think wheel barrels, etc); Lasts pretty well. I think you could compare it to ReLoad for protection, but Permanon is less finicky than ReLoad IMO. You can compare it to UWW for slickness too.

[zmcgovern45]

CarPro HydrO2 is the closest comparison. It is said to be slicker and bead better than Permanon... I haven't personally used either though. Corey has a great review on it.

[VroomVroom]

Before you spend a lot of time.... try a simple Dawn (or other fairly heavy degreaser) wash. What you're experiencing sounds very typical, and I think you may be pleased with the results.

[PiPUK]

Did you do it yourself? Prep is crucial. A product like Squeaky Clean or Eraser goes a long way to ensure a successful bond. I've only ever used the Pro version too, which is thicker. Get yourself some Permanon for the time being. You can apply it and then blow it off so you'll get the barrels done and everything.

Do take care, some of the water based panel wipes are quite surfactant heavy and will leave surfactant residues - not ideal with coatings over the top.

[richy]

Do take care, some of the water based panel wipes are quite surfactant heavy and will leave surfactant residues - not ideal with coatings over the top.
Permanon is not a wipe. You spray it on and either wipe it off like a regular spray wax or you can blow it off without touching it. I did a review on it a long time ago.

[richy]

CarPro HydrO2 is the closest comparison. It is said to be slicker and bead better than Permanon... I haven't personally used either though. Corey has a great review on it.
That's the only CP product I haven't tried yet. I still have a lot of Permanon to go through first. It seems to me that Permanon is the better deal upon dilution.

[SeaJay's]

Something that wasn't brought up that you may want to try is Iron-x or Sonax full effect wheel cleaner. There maybe embedded brake dust that you don't even see that is causing the issues. Or you can use a fine grade clay to clay the surface. Once a year it's recommended to do a full decon on anything opti-coated. I use a 2 part process of Iron-x then clay bar.

[PiPUK]

Permanon is not a wipe. You spray it on and either wipe it off like a regular spray wax or you can blow it off without touching it. I did a review on it a long time ago.

I realise, but you were also commenting on some wipe products and it was to this product type I was referring.

[Woob]

Dawn wash, iron fall out removal, spray wax or nice strong QDer may revive the wheel. Big thing is dirt removal easy?

[Radarryan]

Thank you everyone for your responses! The no beading has happened subsequent to SONAX cleanings. I haven't tried Iron-X but I will. I've gone over every inch of the wheels and they are not in need of claying. I think the fact that color-changing wheel cleaners are my go-to has contributed to not needing to clay.

I have some left over GTechniq C1 and Opti-Coat that is probably about to expire, so it wouldn't be a big deal to re-coat. I'll decontaminate, and if there is nothing then I will re-coat.

Thank you all and happy detailing!