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View Full Version : CeriGlass...when in the detail process? After what step?



allenk4
11-20-2013, 11:46 PM
As part of a detail this weekend I will be using CeriGlass to prep for GTechniq G1 Glass Coating.

I have used G1 on my own vehicle with good results, but it was a stand-alone procedure and not part of a full detail.

I am wondering where this step fits into a full detail?

Here is the current planned process:

Rust Stopper to right front (testing to see if it will work when applied & let dry prior to wetting & scrubbing the wheel)
Photos
Gloves on
Fill Buckets x3 (wash, rinse, wheels)
Scrub Wheels
Scrub Tires- PC with Cyclo stiff brush
Scrub Wheel Wells
Rust Stopper on remaining wheels
Gilmour Foam Gun with CG Citrus and LA Totally Awesome
Foam Engine & Paint
Agitate Engine Compartment while paint dwells
Wash/Rinse- CarPro merino Wool Wash Mitt
Iron-X Lemon Scent....if it smells 10% better it will be a huge improvement. Spray, sponge, rinse
Clay- Speedy Prep and ONR
Ceriglass the windshield
Rinse & Dry
Put Tire Covers on ($10.99 @ Harbor Freight)
Test Spot w/ FLEX 3401

Tape

Compound with FG400 or M105 on appropriate CCS Pad, probably SurBuf or CCS Orange

Engine Compartment & Wheel Wells- Sonus Motor Kote

Polish with FG400 or Wolfgang Finishing Glaze on White or Green CCS

Rinse & Dry

CarPro Eraser

Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant w Red Pad on FLEX
Opti-Bond Tire Gel
Plug in Mytee Firebird Steamer
Door Jambs- Pinnacle Rinseless
Vacuum Interior- Shop-Vac
Carpets- Folex, steam, Cyclo carpet brush on PC
Clean Leather- CG Leather Cleaner, Cyclo soft brush on PC if needed
Clean interior surfaces- Optimum Power Clean 10:1 followed by steam
Protect- Blackfire Interior Protectant
Condition Leather- Poor Boys Leather Stuff
Door Seals- 1Z Gummi Pflege
Exterior Trim- DLUX or Solution Finish
Interior Windows
Final Vacuum
Seal Windscreen- GTechniq G1
Exhaust- Optimum Metal Polish
Final Walk-Around- Optimum Instant Detailer/Gloss Enhancer

Evan.J
11-21-2013, 07:34 AM
Looks fine to me. Are you going to use the glass pads as well?

Here are a few guides on how to use it:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/52179-autowerx-ceriglass-guide.html?highlight=Ceriglass
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews/43988-review-carpro-ceriglass.html?highlight=Ceriglass
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/70053-ceriglass-problem-what-s-secret.html?highlight=Ceriglass

Vegas Transplant
11-21-2013, 07:55 AM
Apparently you've never used this product before.
I say this due to the step that you listed following Ceriglass the windshield.

Rinse and dry ain't gonna cut it.

And another thing...test spot and work from passenger side of the windshield first.

swanicyouth
11-21-2013, 07:56 AM
Just my opinion, but I wouldn't use CG on glass unless your going after defects. Not like I think it will cause an issue. I've used it multiple times and it slings and makes a huge mess if it's used properly (kept wet). It gets in cracks and crevices. It's abrasive and needs to be wiped off paint. The clean up can take quite some time. Of course, sling may be minimized on a foam pad (not eliminated), I've only used it with the CarPro Rayon Pads for glass defects.

I'm just saying. If you not going after defects and using foam pads, the glass could have some crazy coating/film or who knows what and maybe the foam could mar. Then, you need to use rayon pads to fix it. If your using rayon pads, and the polish correctly, your going to have a huge mess to clean up.

To clean the windshield to apply a glass coating, I would use any other glass polish out there or Poor Boys Pro Polish on a foam pad. Actually, I would use the product G Techniq recommends using prior to their coating. As far as I know, CG is the only product available to the detailing market that is easily available that contains cerium oxide, therefore it's the only one that makes a huge mess. All the others glass "polishes" won't correct glass, but will clean it up for a coating.

Just my experience from using CG.

allenk4
11-21-2013, 11:24 AM
Just to clarify, I am using the CeriGlass to Prep for GTechniq G1 only. I am not trying to do defect removal beyond light water spotting. I will only be addressing the windshield on this DD BMW.

I have the CarPro Rayon Pads that are designed to go with CeriGlass.

I used the products two weeks ago.

The water spots came off with two passes.

The minor scratches took forever.

I was able to effectively rinse off the CeriGlass residue effectively.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/WP_20131109_010.jpg (http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/68565)

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wsKUPqUXMco]Oh you ain't gotta worry about it...it's clean - YouTube[/video]

GTechniq suggests using their Nano Polish which, according to MSDS GTechniq contains Citric Acid and Quartz. CeriGlass should achieve the objective of very clean glass prior to application of G1.

I am considering moving this step up the list and doing it prior to Foaming, Rinsing and 2 Bucket Wash.

Mike Phillips
11-21-2013, 11:31 AM
My personal practice and what I teach in my detailing boot camp classes (http://www.autogeek.net/detailing-boot-camp.html) is to


Machine polish glass first
Wash car

Actually,

In no specific order, to these things first and THEN wash car....


Headlights
Engine detailing
Glass polishing

Basically anything that's messy and could make a mess on the exterior paint. The idea being to do this messy stuff first and then when you wash the car you'll wash off anything that landed on the paint so it's not there when you go to actually do the correction work. (after washing the car)


:)

allenk4
11-21-2013, 11:50 AM
Strange that a Grown Man gets excited by a reply from Mike Phillips.

You are a great resource. Thanks for the input.

KillaCam
11-21-2013, 12:11 PM
If you just want to remove water spots use a compound or polish for paint. If they are heavy spots you might need a dedicated glass polish. I like ceriglass and duragloss nu glass.

Vegas Transplant
11-21-2013, 05:48 PM
Nice video.
Excellent results.

allenk4
11-21-2013, 06:56 PM
Nice video.
Excellent results.

It is the most labor intensive process I have done on a vehicle so far.

Thin pads + forced rotation + heavy pressure...keeps you on your toes

Vegas Transplant
11-21-2013, 07:16 PM
I almost followed Swanicyouth's lead. I chose the $49 kit from Caswell instead because of the hard felt bob. I was planning to use it over the winter holidays, but I'm shipping out to Cali by way of Chattanooga on the 8th of Dec.

allenk4
11-21-2013, 07:21 PM
Huh

Vegas Transplant
11-21-2013, 07:53 PM
I was going to follow swanicyouth's method of Ceriglass/foam on my rotary, but I purchased 8 oz net wt. cerium oxide and a 4" hard felt bob to spin on the glass of my Sebring. Between the sand of the Mojave and the slag that they use in Md., the windshield is wrecked. Been living with it for a few years.

Good luck on the upcoming bling out :props:

allenk4
11-21-2013, 09:24 PM
I was going to follow swanicyouth's method of Ceriglass/foam on my rotary, but I purchased 8 oz net wt. cerium oxide and a 4" hard felt bob to spin on the glass of my Sebring. Between the sand of the Mojave and the slag that they use in Md., the windshield is wrecked. Been living with it for a few years.

Good luck on the upcoming bling out :props:

Good Luck

Make sure and take pictures. I found that the scratches are easier to capture visually with video, unless you have a nice camera.