Lake Country pads buying advice

[cheekyage]

Hi all,

I have just bought myself a number of 6.5 inch new Lake Country CCS pads including orange, blue, white and black.

Being relatively new to machine polishing my questions are -

1. Do I need any other pad in the CCS range, I was perhaps thinking either the green or yellow?

2. Is it worth trying the other Lake Country type foam pads including Hydro-Tech?

3. Are larger size pads required or is 6.5 inch sufficient?

4. How many pads of each are recommended?

[cardaddy]

Hi all,

I have just bought myself a number of 6.5 inch new Lake Country CCS pads including orange, blue, white and black.

Being relatively new to machine polishing my questions are -

1. Do I need any other pad in the CCS range, I was perhaps thinking either the green or yellow?

2. Is it worth trying the other Lake Country type foam pads including Hydro-Tech?

3. Are larger size pads required or is 6.5 inch sufficient?

4. How many pads of each are recommended?

Great start there!

Do you need yellow? What are you wanting to do with them? You car(s) or other peoples? Yellow is a lot of cut, maybe something not needed but the first time on some really bad, really hard paint. After then you'll end up with them on the bottom of your bin. One other CCS that I like is the green, wish they had it in the flat pad.

Hydro-Tech pads are nice. Flats are something that I'd say grab first. Maybe some 5½'s in the same colors.

White/green/blue are in the middle and are very VERY versatile. I have more white pads, in more types, CCS/flat and in both more sizes, 6½, 5½, 4 than any others.

How many needed is dependent on what you are going to do. Doing a Tahoe or large SUV you can count on 1~2 pads per large panel area of compounding. I used to refuse to do any vehicle with less than half a dozen of the first two I would start with.

Cooler weather the pads will last longer. Biggest enemy is heat and built up product. You can clean the pad of the product, but the heat will stay. This is the main reason you swap out pads. Also be careful of the built up product and spent paint as it'll get under the pad and drive - you - nuts.

Much less of the grunge being spread around though once you move to finer and finer polishing. :dblthumb2:

[cheekyage]

I have 2 cars, both are under 10 years old, one is japanese and the other is european.

My machine has a backing plate of 150mm (6 inches).

Would there be a preference in pads for a beginner?

Or maybe I should just use the CCS ones I just purchased and go from there?

I'm not sure if I should add the Green CCS to my new order or not.

And just quickly, I know my first pad to use would be Orange to cut, but which one would I use next? Would it be white or black or both?

Here are the polishes I have -

Menzerna FG500, PF2500, SF4000

Which polish would go with which pad?

Many thanks in advance :)

[cardaddy]

I have 2 cars, both are under 10 years old, one is japanese and the other is european.

My machine has a backing plate of 150mm (6 inches).

Would there be a preference in pads for a beginner?

Or maybe I should just use the CCS ones I just purchased and go from there?

I'm not sure if I should add the Green CCS to my new order or not.

And just quickly, I know my first pad to use would be Orange to cut, but which one would I use next? Would it be white or black or both?

Here are the polishes I have -

Menzerna FG500, PF2500, SF4000

Which polish would go with which pad?

Many thanks in advance :)

Well with the Menz being DAT the way it breaks down you'll be able to start with the orange pad no problem. I've seen it used on soft paint with SIP 1500 and work down to LSP ready all on it's own.

Depending on the starting point you may just finish out with PF2500 and a white pad and call it a day. Blue or black would be plenty soft enough to finish out on anything.
Heck I use a black CCS for applying sealant even.

SF4000 is for super fine finishing and jewelling and where you'd go black, red or gold.

Sometimes you may just hit it easy with one product and two different pads. Other days you might go 2 products, 2 pads. Just depends on how much time and effort you want to put in it that day. For me it started at therapy for a bad back. I'll not work as fast as some guys, or as long (on some days) but I'll enjoy what I'm doing no matter what. :)

[cheekyage]

Thanks again Tony, I've already learnt so much just from your replies!

Sorry to sound so newbie but what does DAT stand for?

Do you think the Yellow 6.5" Lake Country CCS would be too harsh to use on a car that has some swirls and water marks?

I didn't want to get anything too aggressive, but perhaps it might be worth having in case I ever need it.

What do you think?

[KneeDragr]

Dual action or rotary?

[wdmaccord]

So far, I've only used/needed (I use a GG6):

Orange: Megs UC, Menz FG400, PF 2500, M105
White: Menz FG400, PF2500, SF4500, M205, BF TP&S, BF GEP
Blue: BF WD
Red: Coll 845

6.5 inch LC CCS. Just ordered some 5.5" LC CCS and 5" backing plate to try out. I also have 4" LC spot buff pads and 3" & 3.5" backing plates for spot correction.

[smokescarclean]

Cardaddy.

They do make green flat pads. I have some and love them. Unfortunately I have only been able to find them only on sites other than autogeek.

[cheekyage]

Dual action or rotary?

I'll be using a Dual Action and Forced Rotation machine

[cardaddy]

Thanks again Tony, I've already learnt so much just from your replies!

Sorry to sound so newbie but what does DAT stand for?

Do you think the Yellow 6.5" Lake Country CCS would be too harsh to use on a car that has some swirls and water marks?

I didn't want to get anything too aggressive, but perhaps it might be worth having in case I ever need it.

What do you think?

You are much welcome, thank you as well.

DAT = Diminishing Abrasive Technology, it breaks down, IE; Menzerna
SMAT = Small Micro Abrasive Technology, it doesn't break down, IE; most new Meguiar's products

Yes, I think the yellow pad would likely be too much to start off with. But that is more of a general statement than one coming from knowing what paint YOU ARE working with.

In other words, the yellow pad is a beast when it comes to cut. But some paint, hard paint, can take it. Others, and there are a LOT of them out there, will not and will actually haze and suffer from micromarring when working them with a yellow pad. Micromarring doesn't mean you cannot get a perfect finish, just that you are going to have to work it with at least 1 extra step to get there. Think, 1 compounding and 1 finishing step most of the time. But if you have a lot of hazing you'll likely have 1 compounding, 1 heavy polishing, then 1 light polishing step.

The real key is to do a test spot. Actually do SEVERAL, changing up your technique, your compound, and the pad.

Say you divide your hood into 4 areas;

1 with a orange pad, PF-2500, medium heavy pressure, speed 4 for 4 passes
1 with a orange pad, PF-2500, medium pressure, speed 5 for 5 passes
1 with a white pad, FG-400, medium heavy pressure, speed 4 for 4 passes
1 with a white pad, FG-400, light pressure, speed 5 for 5 passes
And so on and so on. All the above will leave the product wet enough to remove at that point. Notice I'm not saying to finish it out, but just do the first 'cutting' part and compare one to another. Typically you can get 6-ish passes and finish working the product, and that's when it finishes out the best, after the first part of the cutting phase has finished. You'll probably get about 6 passes out of most of them though.

What you're looking for in the beginning is the least amount of pressure, working time, and cut to get the paint to where you want it before going on to your polishing stage.

I did say FG-400 as I'm thinking that is what you meant to say earlier. (You said FG-500.)

I know you didn't mention SI-1500, (I don't keep it either, but do have FG-400, PF-2500 & SF-4000)) but it may be something you want to consider. SI-1500 is quite versatile in that respect. While I'd not recommend starting with FG-400 and an orange pad, (although you can, and you MAY NEED TO) :dunno: I'd not have a problem saying to start with SI-1500 and an orange pad, (even on soft paint).

Just don't want to cast a blanket statement out there saying all XYZ paint is hard, and all ABC paint is soft. Some are, some are not. The ONLY way you know is by working it, period. ;)

I know a guy that uses it almost exclusively and you can bet more often than not he's starting, and actually FINISHING with an orange pad. :) The way it has more cut right there at the beginning, (first pass) then drops fast, then after a tiny water spritz it'll end up finishing down really nicely. I've seen it go straight to Menz Power Lock time and time again with nothing more than an orange pad start to finish.

[cheekyage]

Once again Cardaddy you have provided a very helpful and informative reply.

Thank you again!

I was looking at the Menzerna SI 1500 you recommended as an alternate solution but it does not look like any of the retail distributors here in Australia stock the Super Intensive range :(

Back on the Lake Country CCS pads, is there much difference between the Orange and White CCS like you mentioned in your previous post?

[cheekyage]

Bump :)

[cardaddy]

Cardaddy.

They do make green flat pads. I have some and love them. Unfortunately I have only been able to find them only on sites other than autogeek.

Thanks for that information! :dblthumb2:
I know in the LC pad chart I have I've never seen them other than CCS. They'd be great to have in a flat pad for sure. I do tend to like them as well, even if mine happen to be CCS.

OTOH I own about a 100 pads these days so there is no shortage of one to another. ;)




Once again Cardaddy you have provided a very helpful and informative reply.

Thank you again!

I was looking at the Menzerna SI 1500 you recommended as an alternate solution but it does not look like any of the retail distributors here in Australia stock the Super Intensive range :(

Back on the Lake Country CCS pads, is there much difference between the Orange and White CCS like you mentioned in your previous post?

So you can't find the PO83 / SI 1500 at all over your way? Would seem that one may be more available than PO91E / IP 2000. They both correct 2000 grit sanding marks but SI 1500 is a bit more aggressive up front, (and in the chart at least) finishes out a bit better.

IMHO, the difference between orange and white is less than between orange and yellow. Although, all three are noticeably 'harder' than the next level of pads in the LC line. For instance, green - gray - blue are all 'soft' pads, (especially after you've put them through a few duty cycles).

I still however own more white pads, both CCS and flats in 5½" and 6½" than any others. (And have them in 4" CCS too. Along with yellow, orange, black & blue as well.) ;)

By FAR the pads that get the least usage are my yellow ones. Might use them the first time on some seriously hard paint and after that they do more harm than good. :eek: Actually, with Megs heavy cut (SMAT) compounds like 101 & 105 even orange pads can have too much cut. (Which is why I have so many whites.) :)

But switch to Menzerna /DAT and you can put more cut down initially with the pad as it (the compound) will break down really quickly with the remaining product finishing out easier.

[cheekyage]

Thank you very much again Cardaddy.

Just to confirm, I should prime my brand new LC CCS pads before using for the first time?

I am able to purchase the Menz IP2000 intensive polish here but not the SI1500.

What were the codes PO83 and PO91E?

[MJT]

Does anyone know if you can get away with using an orange ccs pad with a one step cleaner wax? Any pros or cons to that instead of the suggested green pad?