Flex and d151

[kjn]

I have a Flex on the way and was thinking of purchasing d151 to do my families cars. Can anyone give me any tips? Basically all the cars are Toyotas. I"ll also be using the 5" hybrid pads. What pad colors, speed and speed of arm movement should I use?

Im just wanna make sure I don't damage any paint.

[KS_Detailing]

Check out Autogeek on youtube, Mike has some good tutorial videos :props:

[kjn]

Yes, ive watched them all, just looking for advice from the pros that worked with d151, flex and Toyota paint as I read they seem to be soft. Thanks

[AutowerxDetailing]

The nice thing about the flex is you can keep it on a moderate speed and still get good correction that finishes very well. I like to work it on speed 4.5 for a majority of correction work when using SMAT based compounds from Meguiars. D151 works well when paired with a white polishing pad or an orange polishing pad for more intensive defect removal. I recommend to do a test spot to see which one finishes better. YMMV.

[kjn]

The nice thing about the flex is you can keep it on a moderate speed and still get good correction that finishes very well. I like to work it on speed 4.5 for a majority of correction work when using SMAT based compounds from Meguiars. D151 works well when paired with a white polishing pad or an orange polishing pad for more intensive defect removal. I recommend to do a test spot to see which one finishes better. YMMV.

Thanks Nicholas, have you used d151 on toyota paint before? Ive heard its soft and also heard d151 doesn't play well with soft paint.

[Mike@DedicatedPerfection]

I have used my Flex and D151 on Toyota paint before without issue.

Now the same combo doesn't play well at all with my soft black BMW paint. It always leaves hazing.

[kjn]

I have used my Flex and D151 on Toyota paint before without issue.

Now the same combo doesn't play well at all with my soft black BMW paint. It always leaves hazing.

Sounds good, thanks man.

[Mike Phillips]

Now the same combo doesn't play well at all with my soft black BMW paint. It always leaves hazing.



Correct. Actually, for the most part, just about any one-step cleaner/wax can and will leave hazing in the paint. You'll only see this on dark colors but when you're working on clear coats the point is if it's happening on dark colored cars it's also happening on light colored cars your eyes just can't see it.



I've used D151, M66 and ColorX a lot with DA Polishers as well as all the other cleaner/waxes and AIO's you can find on the AG store.

Here's some of my tips...


Unlike when you do a multiple step show car approach with a,


Dedicated correction or compounding step.
Dedicated polishing step
Dedicated sealing step (with a non-cleaning wax, sealant or coating)


In the above scenario you always apply a thin coating of the LSP, (wax, sealant or coating), BECAUSE all the correction work was done by the prior two steps.

Think about it... doesn't everyone always say,

Apply a thin coat...


And that's true in the above scenario.

When using a one-step cleaner/wax or AIO (All-in-One, same thing as a cleaner/wax just different words), you want to use the product heavy or wet. This means use a lot more product. The reason why is because now you're depending on the


Abrasives (if any, some cleaner/waxes are non-abrasive)
Cleaning Agents (chemical cleaners and solvents)
Polishing Oils
Protection Ingredients


You're depending upon the first three items in the list above to do the correction and polishing work and for this reason you don't want to skimp on product.

You want to use the ample amount. You want plenty of abrasives, cleaners and lubricating polishing oils on the surface working for you.

Don't over do it but just know that using a cleaner/wax, especially on neglected paint isn't anything like applying a THIN coat of a finishing wax, sealant or coating.

Make sense?


This is actually one of the segments we just shot for My Classic Car, that is how to speed thing up by using an AIO and we used the 1967 GTO for this segment.

Also just to add...

If you car's paint is in good to excellent condition and you're using a cleaner/wax or AIO as a "Maintenance Wax", because your car is a daily driver, then you can cut down on the amount of product you use since the paint isn't in bad shape.

Makes sense again?


Here's a few more recommendations...


Wash and clay the car, (if needed), before using a cleaner/wax.



Always do a test spot before buffing out the entire car.



Don't buff to a dry buff. Some product state in the recommendations to do this but clear coats are scratch sensitive, my experience is anytime you buff to a dry buff on a clear coat since you've buffed till you've lost lubrication you will increase the chances for micro-marring.

Instead, buff till you reached the number of passes your test spot showed you needed to do to get the results you want and then stop buffing while there is still a wet film on the surface.

Let this film dry before wiping it off as inside this wet film are the protection ingredients and in most cases if you wipe this wet film off you will just have wiped off the protection ingredients.

Some protection ingredients bond to stick to the paint via the drying process.



Break large panels into smaller areas when working on neglected paint.



Try to tackle large panels all at one time when using a cleaner/wax to maintain paint in good to excellent shape.



ALWAYS try to use the softest pad possible when using a one-step cleaner/was as this will tend to always leave the nicest looking finish.



For neglected paint you'll want to not only use the product heavy but use the higher speed settings, on a Flex this would be the 4-6 range.



For paint in good to excellent condition, try to use the slower speeds, this would be the 3-4 setting. The Flex 3401 is always easier to use at higher speeds with smaller pads so find a system that works for you.


Always hold the pad flat to the surface and the tool is easy to use. If "you" are holding it so the pad isn't flat to the surface then the Flex has a "Walking Effect" and this is due to the benefit everyone loves about this tool and that is the forced rotation via a gear driven mechanism.


And most important...

Clean your pad OFTEN! - Especially when working on neglected paint as you're going to be removing,


Paint.
Road Film.
Oxidation.
Plus you'll have "spent product" building up on your pad.


Use the cleaning a pad on the fly method I show in one of my videos. Use a clean, 100% cotton terry cloth towel for the reasons I share in my how-to article.

That's all I can think of off the top of my head but it's only a little after 7:00am and I haven't had my first cup of coffee yet.

:D





just looking for advice from the pros that worked with d151, flex and Toyota paint as I read they seem to be soft.

Thanks




We have a lot of experienced Pros and I'm sure they'll chime in with their own great tips...


:dblthumb2:

[parttimer]

Mike, what AIO would you recommend for dark cars? I tried the Blackfire total polish and seal on my black car and got the ole haze so then I had to polish it. Is there something you would pick for darks? Doesn't make sense to have to do a two step if you really just want to do an AIO.

[Mike Phillips]

Is there something you would pick for darks? Doesn't make sense to have to do a two step if you really just want to do an AIO.




I agree.

The problem lies first with how easy clear coats scratch and how easy it is to see the scratches on dark clear coated cars.

I have older article on the benefits of clear coats which is they last longer than the only other real paint system that we've had in "car history" called single stage paints.

One of the reason clear coats last longer than single stage paints is because they are harder.

The drawback and the thing that's hard for a lot of people to wrap their minds around is the fact that even though they are harder they still scratch very easily. But that is the fact of the matter.


I haven't tried Klasse AIO by machine on a neglected black finish yet but it's on my to do list as well as testing any other non-abrasive cleaner/wax.

Meguiar's M66 uses diminishing abrasives instead of super microscopic abrasive technology like D151 and this might also be a good option to at least try.

Meguiar's basic Cleaner/Wax in the consumer line has been around since 1973 and last I checked it was not only very LIGHT in the abrasive and cleaning agents aspect but also very Bubba-proof.

There's also G-P-S by Optimum but this does contain some light on non-aggressive type of abrasives for some actual correction work but if memory serves me correctly it to can leave micro-marring on dark colors.


Best thing to do is have one, two or three cleaner/waxes on hand and then do some testing to see which product give you the best results as paints are different.

This is key...


PAINTS ARE DIFFERENT



Just because one product works on one car doesn't mean it will automatically work on the next car.


And the opposite of this is also true.


Just because on product doesn't work on one car doesn't mean it won't work on the next car.


Like a good mechanic, you need to have more than one tool in your tool chest.




:)

[kjn]

Thanks Mike, appreciate it!


:dblthumb2:

[Kitoy22]

Mike, what AIO would you recommend for dark cars? I tried the Blackfire total polish and seal on my black car and got the ole haze so then I had to polish it. Is there something you would pick for darks? Doesn't make sense to have to do a two step if you really just want to do an AIO.

Hi! Im not mike, but maybe i can help you too with your question. Aside from klasse AIO which mike mentioned earlier, you can also consider sonax paint cleaner, cg black light. Tried all this three products, they work great on their own strength. So try to research more on usage of this products

[Mike Phillips]

Thanks Mike, appreciate it!


:dblthumb2:


No problemo...


I have a new book coming out and am working on a section related to this topic.



:)

[Mike@DedicatedPerfection]

I have a new book coming out and am working on a section related to this topic.



:)

Another new book!? :urtheman:

Always wanted to use that.

:dblthumb2:

[KS_Detailing]

No problemo...


I have a new book coming out and am working on a section related to this topic.



:)

:righton:

do you know when it will be released?