Can someone educate me on Iron-X?

[HateSwirls]

I've never used such a product but I read so many articals on it, people seem to benifit from it.

My RAV is an 08'
My truck is 17 years old

Is it time to use Iron-X?

I clay twice a year, isn't claying enough?

[2old2change]

Try claying your car and then hit it with Iron-X and see all that you are not getting with the clay. I will not install a coating without a complete decontamination with both.

[KS_Detailing]

I tried Ironx on my wheels yesterday with no results. My wheels are in good condition besides some brake dust that had stuck in the corners of the spokes. I let it dwell for a minute, it changed color, I rinsed and nothing came off. No agitation. Maybe I didn't use it properly. :dunno:

[drvnbysound]

I haven't used it yet, but from some reading I've done I was under the impression that it changed color when removing iron deposits. I thought it stayed the same color if the surface is clean...

[ken tuep]

I tried Ironx on my wheels yesterday with no results. My wheels are in good condition besides some brake dust that had stuck in the corners of the spokes. I let it dwell for a minute, it changed color, I rinsed and nothing came off. No agitation. Maybe I didn't use it properly. :dunno:

You need to let it dwell longer, and it will need some agitation. Its not a magic cleaner, but does work very well when used as directed.

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[ken tuep]

Iron-x is a staple in my detailing arsenal. I thought claying was enough, till I used it the first time. Its well worth the money IMO.

Pickup a 1 liter bottle, that will be enough for both your vehicles, and maybe have some leftover.

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[KS_Detailing]

You need to let it dwell longer, and it will need some agitation. Its not a magic cleaner, but does work very well when used as directed.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using AG Online

How long to dwell? I didn't know how long it would take to dry so I was trying to be safe than sorry.

[nissenc1337]

I think this is a valuable thread.

Let me share my experience.

I am currently "restoring" a 1997 30th Camaro. These cars are Arctic White and my particular example has 123K on it. The paint has been clayed but even after claying I can see the car is PEPPERED with small yellow/orange dots. Posting this problem led to suggestions of Iron-X. I bought the combo pack (Iron X and Tar X). Received it last night and thought I'd try a fender to start with. So, I prepped the area with ZEP Citrus to remove any contaminants and wax. Then applied a healthy amount of Iron X and let it dwell for 5minutes (bottle says 5-7min). I did notice SOME reaction but not on the areas I expected. It didn't attack my yellow/orange spots (which are littered all over my car).

Now, I'm back at a drawing board as to what I need to do but I'm not sure if I'm simply using the product wrong or if I'm using the wrong product. But I can't say that I'm impressed by any means, I expected the white fender to turn fuscia!

[Kacz]

I think this is a valuable thread.

Let me share my experience.

I am currently "restoring" a 1997 30th Camaro. These cars are Arctic White and my particular example has 123K on it. The paint has been clayed but even after claying I can see the car is PEPPERED with small yellow/orange dots. Posting this problem led to suggestions of Iron-X. I bought the combo pack (Iron X and Tar X). Received it last night and thought I'd try a fender to start with. So, I prepped the area with ZEP Citrus to remove any contaminants and wax. Then applied a healthy amount of Iron X and let it dwell for 5minutes (bottle says 5-7min). I did notice SOME reaction but not on the areas I expected. It didn't attack my yellow/orange spots (which are littered all over my car).

Now, I'm back at a drawing board as to what I need to do but I'm not sure if I'm simply using the product wrong or if I'm using the wrong product. But I can't say that I'm impressed by any means, I expected the white fender to turn fuscia!

Where are these yellow/orange dots located on the car?

Can you feel them?

[nissenc1337]

Where are these yellow/orange dots located on the car?

Can you feel them?


http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/70961-embedded-material-paint.html

That's the thread I've started on the topic. I don't want to hijack this thread or start two trains of thought. Hop over and post and then i'll reply.

Thanks!

[mwoolfso]

I have only used IronX spray on wheels and paint. The dwell time is less than 2 min in my experience. The key is to have a slightly wet surface. I also will work the product with a foam or mf pad. If you maintain the paint well the subsequent applications in future months/years will not be as significant as the first time.

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[zerix]

I think this is a valuable thread.

Let me share my experience.

I am currently "restoring" a 1997 30th Camaro. These cars are Arctic White and my particular example has 123K on it. The paint has been clayed but even after claying I can see the car is PEPPERED with small yellow/orange dots. Posting this problem led to suggestions of Iron-X. I bought the combo pack (Iron X and Tar X). Received it last night and thought I'd try a fender to start with. So, I prepped the area with ZEP Citrus to remove any contaminants and wax. Then applied a healthy amount of Iron X and let it dwell for 5minutes (bottle says 5-7min). I did notice SOME reaction but not on the areas I expected. It didn't attack my yellow/orange spots (which are littered all over my car).

Now, I'm back at a drawing board as to what I need to do but I'm not sure if I'm simply using the product wrong or if I'm using the wrong product. But I can't say that I'm impressed by any means, I expected the white fender to turn fuscia!

Typically from my experience the back of the car is usually the worst off, try it there. But before you try it get your eyes REALLY close to the paint in different areas along the back of the car, you should notice small rusting spots (very tiny) and this is what iron-x eliminates that claying alone can not remove.

[FUNX650]

My RAV is an 08'
My truck is 17 years old

Is it time to use Iron-X?

I clay twice a year, isn't claying enough?
Clay is an abrasive tool/product that is used to remove above surface contaminates---often described as being "bonded".

If there are any contaminates...let's use brake/rail dust as examples...that have penetrated into the microscopic pores of the top film-layer of the paint:
Then during the claying process some of these contaminates may be pulled-out and away from the paint;
but others will be sheared-off...leaving the remnants behind, and imbedded.

Although the paint may feel/look as smooth as a baby's behind...
These contamination-remnants are just waiting for the next cycle of moisture and heat
to start their destruction of the paint systems. Rust from within.

Iron-X and similar decontamination systems were designed to remove these remnants.
But sealing the paint is imperative, after being so decontaminated.
This will go a long way towards its preservation over its expected life.

Even though SS paint systems will experience benefits from de-cons like IronX...
This is especially true for BC/CC paint systems.

Bob

[KillaCam]

Iron x is a great product if you aren't doing any polishing afterward. But I feel like it's a waste of money if you plan on compounding or polishing because you're more than likely going to remove that thin layer of paint that contains the iron particles when you polish.
It is fun watching it react to white paint though.

[lawrenceSA]

Iron x is a great product if you aren't doing any polishing afterward. But I feel like it's a waste of money if you plan on compounding or polishing because you're more than likely going to remove that thin layer of paint that contains the iron particles when you polish.
It is fun watching it react to white paint though.

...and where would these iron particles then be during the polishing process.... surely they would be caught up in the spent polish and abraded paint that you have just removed from the paint?

I worry about doing something like this because the risk of trapping one of those hard particles between your pad and paint whilst polishing increases, along with the risk of inflicting a deep scratch, or pigtails etc....

I personally try to completely remove all of the bonded and embedded contaminants from the paint before starting polishing, in order for the surface to be as clean as possible.