I screwed up pretty good.. Advice please..

[kochdalton87]

I'm enough of a man to admit it but I wish I didn't have to. I burned through single stage paint using an eraser on a drill while removing vinyl stripes. On the upside I definitely learned my lesson through this and completed the rest of the truck with no strike-throughs. My problem was too high of speed plus too much pressure = terrible technique!
The section that you are seeing is approx. 6 inches long so it is pretty noticeable. I am curious to whether or not it will somewhat blend in after compounding (while being careful about the paint flaking) because it is an oxidized red layer under it. It is not wore through to bare metal as you can see.
Am I seeing red-tinted primer or another coat of paint??
http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x364/kochdalton87/3.jpg (http://s1178.photobucket.com/user/kochdalton87/media/3.jpg.html)

For a little background info it is a red 1996 Ford F-250 that belongs to an extended family member and is severely oxidized. I volunteered to do a paint correction at my normal rate and he agreed that he would like the luster brought back. It is somewhat of a beater truck, mainly gets driven in bad weather when he doesn't want to take out his new edge Mach 1. The rest of the truck is filled with imperfections also.
http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x364/kochdalton87/Auto%20Detailing/truck.jpg (http://s1178.photobucket.com/user/kochdalton87/media/Auto%20Detailing/truck.jpg.html)

I am not trying to create a scapegoat for my problem just pointing this out. The person that "corrected" the front fenders and hood of the truck didn't do a very admirable job. I'll get to that later.

Defects on the truck. Surface is far from perfect and has several cases of defects such as these shown below.
http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x364/kochdalton87/5.jpg (http://s1178.photobucket.com/user/kochdalton87/media/5.jpg.html)

http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x364/kochdalton87/4.jpg (http://s1178.photobucket.com/user/kochdalton87/media/4.jpg.html)
I want this to be taken care and have the customer satisfied. I am fully prepared to have the side of the bed repainted if that is what it takes. I know that is the only proper way of fixing it but it depends on what the family member's opinion is. Knowing the person's personality I have a feeling that their response will be "don't worry about it, at least it's red again etc."

If his response is similar to that what would you do? Lower the price? How much? Etc??

On another note, while looking over the truck closer I noticed some things "left behind" by the past owner/detailer. On the hood among other places you can see where it was struck through, almost down to bare metal at some spots.
On the hood I noticed it is significantly darker at some spots (even after claying) and I have a feeling that this is the beginning signs of possibly going through the paint, am I correct?
http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x364/kochdalton87/1.jpg (http://s1178.photobucket.com/user/kochdalton87/media/1.jpg.html)
I believe this because while looking towards the back of the hood I can see this same color on a body line and they broke through the paint exposing bare metal on the same body line.
http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x364/kochdalton87/2.jpg (http://s1178.photobucket.com/user/kochdalton87/media/2.jpg.html)
What's the protocol for this? Since the hood and front fenders were greatly "improved" my plan of attack was going to be either M205 on a light cutting pad or a polishing pad to amp up the gloss. Is this too risky knowing the above paint condition?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Sorry for the wordy post. This experience has gotten me pretty down so any words of encouragement would be greatly appreciated too. At least I learned my lesson and hope to never make the same mistake again. Thanks

[Cosmin]

is hard to judge the damage by the pictures.
seem like it has already a history that may affect the outcome.

i will just go with a da , polish pad and 205 to refresh the outside , forget about correction , that finish is trashed already.
going cutting pad , rotary and any paste too aggressive will get you in trouble.
so.. focus on over all improvement , gloss and let it go. you will not get perfection in the finish.
if the owner requested any touch-up than follow on that , is your responsibility.

[Vegas Transplant]

Use a cleaner sealant. Top with 845. 2 coats.
I would not worry too much about the damage...actually not at all.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1845/21_resie_after_wash.png (http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/58497)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1845/71_resize_PoliSeal_50_50.png (http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/58498)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1845/98_resize_after_2nd_coat_845.png (http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/58500)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1845/94_resize_hood_after_2nd_coat_845.png (http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/58499)



All iPhone 3 pics. You can see the darkness that you wrote of in the last photo ^^^.


+1.vvv



going cutting pad , rotary and any paste too aggressive will get you in trouble.

so.. focus on over all improvement , gloss and let it go. you will not get perfection in the finish.

[sweatthedetails]

This is the reason i make customers with cars 5 years old or older sign a vehicle disclaimer. You can never predict what older paint, plastic, elctronics, pin stripes, etc will do. I always explain i will take every precaution but when you are deep cleaning older materials they can be unpreditable and i cant be responsible for that.

At this point I would call the detail a freebie at the least. As for a respray, that may not make much since for that beater. Keep the customer happy, but some common sence needs to apply.

[custmsprty]

Considering how beat that truck is to begin with I wouldn't sweat it.

[kochdalton87]

is hard to judge the damage by the pictures.
seem like it has already a history that may affect the outcome.

i will just go with a da , polish pad and 205 to refresh the outside , forget about correction , that finish is trashed already.
going cutting pad , rotary and any paste too aggressive will get you in trouble.
so.. focus on over all improvement , gloss and let it go. you will not get perfection in the finish.
if the owner requested any touch-up than follow on that , is your responsibility.

I did a test spot before reading everyone's responses with M105 and a blue hybrid cutting pad on speed 4 on my Flex 3401 and it cleaned it up incredibly well for what I was expecting. I followed up with M205 on the white hybrid polishing bad and got a very nice red glow, although not perfect, it is a huge improvement over what it was. My plan is to only use this method on the "whitish" oxidation and follow Vegas Transplants idea on the areas previously corrected by the previous owner/detailer. Thank you for your help.


Use a cleaner sealant. Top with 845. 2 coats.
I would not worry too much about the damage...actually not at all.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1845/21_resie_after_wash.png (http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/58497)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1845/71_resize_PoliSeal_50_50.png (http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/58498)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1845/98_resize_after_2nd_coat_845.png (http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/58500)

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1845/94_resize_hood_after_2nd_coat_845.png (http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/58499)



All iPhone 3 pics. You can see the darkness that you wrote of in the last photo ^^^.


+1.vvv

I'm liking what I see. As said above I think this will be my go to plan for the areas previously corrected. What is an example of a popular cleaner sealant? Preferably one that can be purchased locally. I'm pretty sure I can track down the Collinite locally but what sealant do you recommend?
Thank you for your reply.


This is the reason i make customers with cars 5 years old or older sign a vehicle disclaimer. You can never predict what older paint, plastic, elctronics, pin stripes, etc will do. I always explain i will take every precaution but when you are deep cleaning older materials they can be unpreditable and i cant be responsible for that.

At this point I would call the detail a freebie at the least. As for a respray, that may not make much since for that beater. Keep the customer happy, but some common sence needs to apply.

Interesting points and I will be sure to remember them for future clients. You're right about the common sense. I don't know what I was thinking, I did a small section using the eraser and inspected my results and when I saw they were good I must have went into speed mode. Definitely a lesson learned and hopefully it never happens again. Thank you for your reply.


Considering how beat that truck is to begin with I wouldn't sweat it.

Thanks for your reply and I think the family member will think the same but I just find it devastating because this is my first real mistake. I guess it's just part of living and learning. I should've researched more on using the eraser before I went at it. Thanks

[Flash Gordon]

Considering how beat that truck is to begin with I wouldn't sweat it.

:iagree:

The improvements you made far outweigh the damage ...... I actually never saw where you struck through the paint

I would offer NOTHING and expect a hefty tip!

:)

[Vegas Transplant]

The truck in my photo is a '94 F 150. I used Optimum Poly-Seal, heavy, then worked it well. Then hit it with OHC with no discernible difference. Thus the 50/50. All pics are of the hood. At first I could not believe the clarity that the two hard coats of 845 added to the depth and pop.

Stay away from the heavy hitters like Cosmin said and you'll get more bling.
I've read that Poorboys polish with sealant is excellent also.
Don't care much for 360. Your pads will need to be washed frequently.
Can't comment on the local stuff either.






I would offer NOTHING and expect a hefty tip!






+1.

[kochdalton87]

The truck in my photo is a '94 F 150. I used Optimum Poly-Seal, heavy, then worked it well. Then hit it with OHC with no discernible difference. Thus the 50/50. All pics are of the hood. At first I could not believe the clarity that the two hard coats of 845 added to the depth and pop.

Stay away from the heavy hitters like Cosmin said and you'll get more bling.
I've read that Poorboys polish with sealant is excellent also.
Don't care much for 360. Your pads will need to be washed frequently.
Can't comment on the local stuff either.




+1.

Okay good to hear. That being said I would like to return this vehicle to the customer sooner than later when it is done but I do not have local access to any Optimum products. I know I could order it from AG but to get it rush shipped here it just wouldn't make any sense financially. i can however get Meg's D156 AIO locally at a local automotive store. Do you recommend this? Will it give me a similar result? Thanks

[KillaCam]

Okay good to hear. That being said I would like to return this vehicle to the customer sooner than later when it is done but I do not have local access to any Optimum products. I know I could order it from AG but to get it rush shipped here it just wouldn't make any sense financially. i can however get Meg's D156 AIO locally at a local automotive store. Do you recommend this? Will it give me a similar result? Thanks

D156 is a spray wax. Do you mean D151? If so it is a wonderful AIO that has good cut and would probably work wonders on that paint.

[kochdalton87]

D156 is a spray wax. Do you mean D151? If so it is a wonderful AIO that has good cut and would probably work wonders on that paint.

Yes I did mean D151, sorry about that confusion. And sounds good. Thank you.

[Vegas Transplant]

Whatever works, works,
Anything is better than what you've got.
Knock it out the park hand :props:

[kochdalton87]

For any of you that were following this thread I have a follow-up thread on this and could use some much needed advice. The thread can be found below. Thank you.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/72362-follow-up-i-screwed-up-pretty-good-advice-please-advice-needed-again.html#post975571

[stilltipping3]

I also make them sign wavers and ask them if I didn't attempt to correct the paint then would they get it painted. The drill guns WILL get you in trouble. I move them fast and not to much pressure when I do use them. Ugh, I feel your pain. Hurt my buddies old azz suburban one time. Luckily he didn't care and it blew up. That tells you that if the car is junk when u start it u may be in for more than u bargained for.

[kochdalton87]

I also make them sign wavers and ask them if I didn't attempt to correct the paint then would they get it painted. The drill guns WILL get you in trouble. I move them fast and not to much pressure when I do use them. Ugh, I feel your pain. Hurt my buddies old azz suburban one time. Luckily he didn't care and it blew up. That tells you that if the car is junk when u start it u may be in for more than u bargained for.


After this lesson I will definitely be looking into legal waivers for projects such as these where high-risk is involved. On the bright side I corrected my technique with the eraser wheel for future reference. Overall the vehicle did clean up better than I thought. Thank you for your response.