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artofdetailing
10-15-2013, 12:26 AM
Hi Guys,

Just want to remind my fellow forum members a couple of really important things when drying the car

1. Always begin the drying process with a wet waffle weave towel. By wet I mean completely soak the towel with clean water and then wring out as much as possible. Using a dry towel Can cause towel wipe scratches. Yes, clear coats these days are that sensitive.

2. Wipe down the car from top to bottom and work in straight lines. When the towel is unable to absorb more water, wring it out and keep going.

3. The car won't get 100% dry this way but rather about 90%. For the remaining little bit of water, use a detail spray or spray wax/sealant with a dry PLUSH microfiber. Preferrably 400gsm and up.

4. If you have the money, buy a Metro Master Blaster. You will need to upgrade your circuit to 20amp of better to use all 8hp though.

This way of drying has really helped me out and I think you will have great results this way too. :Picture:

Pureshine
10-15-2013, 12:58 AM
A dry towel is fine if you use the blotting method and most of us use the Master Blaster or some form blow drying. The less you touch the paint the better.

Calendyr
10-15-2013, 01:35 AM
What I do now is this. I use a dry microfiber towel on the top of the vehicle by dropping it on a wet spot then picking it up. I do this on a few areas of the top until the towel is wet. Then I wring it out and fold it in 4 and start drying in a linear motion from front to back and back to front. Only exception to this is the truck, for very small trunks I go from left to right and right to left still in a linear motion.

After that quick wax to finish the drying and give the car some protection and shine.

jpegs13
10-15-2013, 01:37 AM
A dry towel is fine if you use the blotting method and most of us use the Master Blaster or some form blow drying. The less you touch the paint the better.
:iagree:

lawrenceSA
10-15-2013, 05:28 AM
What I do now is this. I use a dry microfiber towel on the top of the vehicle by dropping it on a wet spot then picking it up. I do this on a few areas of the top until the towel is wet. Then I wring it out and fold it in 4 and start drying in a linear motion from front to back and back to front. Only exception to this is the truck, for very small trunks I go from left to right and right to left still in a linear motion.

After that quick wax to finish the drying and give the car some protection and shine.

I would like to understand the 'science' behind why it is important only to dry in straight lines.... can you please explain this to me over say drying in a circular motion....

HateSwirls
10-15-2013, 05:45 AM
If something gets caught up in your towel you could put swirls in your paint in circular motions, they would be more noticeable compared to wiping in straight lines.
You tent to use less pressure too when wiping in straight lines which is another plus.

Scott@IncrediblyDetailed
10-15-2013, 06:52 AM
I like to blow as much of the water off as possible, then come back and dry the rest with a small waffle weave microfiber towel using ONR on the drying towel. Been working great.

JJH
10-15-2013, 07:42 AM
You should be able to dry a properly corrected surface by just using a stream of water from a hose. 75-85% of the water will be displaced from the vehicle if you use the hose sheeting method on a properly sealed/waxed/compounded/clayed/polished vehicle.

c8n
10-15-2013, 07:48 AM
Hi Guys,

Just want to remind my fellow forum members a couple of really important things when drying the car

1. Always begin the drying process with a wet waffle weave towel. By wet I mean completely soak the towel with clean water and then wring out as much as possible. Using a dry towel Can cause towel wipe scratches. Yes, clear coats these days are that sensitive.

2. Wipe down the car from top to bottom and work in straight lines. When the towel is unable to absorb more water, wring it out and keep going.

3. The car won't get 100% dry this way but rather about 90%. For the remaining little bit of water, use a detail spray or spray wax/sealant with a dry PLUSH microfiber. Preferrably 400gsm and up.

4. If you have the money, buy a Metro Master Blaster. You will need to upgrade your circuit to 20amp of better to use all 8hp though.

This way of drying has really helped me out and I think you will have great results this way too. :Picture:
I use the same technique, if it is on a well waxed car, just that I use a regular MF towel instead of a waffle weave. The waffle weave type... at least the ones I came across are not as soft.

On a car that has no wax, I use the blotting method with a waffle weave.

miltonlin
10-15-2013, 07:59 AM
The problem that I run into when drying is that I will invariably run into a spot (crevices are notorious) where I missed washing. So for me, it's important to use as many sections of the waffle weave folded and multiple towels and not re-use a side.
I think metrovac is great for drying too - vg with crevices and wheels. It's just that I don't want to wake up neighbors in a morning routine

mikesal57
10-15-2013, 08:32 AM
Tell me I'm scratching the paint....

I start with a dry waffle weave towel ..

I drop it on the roof...

I drag it by the corner....

I pull slowly across the roof and it scoops up the water...

There is ZERO pressure on the towel...


Am I scratching it?


Mike

FUNX650
10-15-2013, 08:34 AM
Hi Art...

Thanks for posting your drying a car tips.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________

I also agree with JJH's below methodology to begin drying a vehicle:

You should be able to dry a properly corrected surface by just using a stream of water from a hose.
75-85% of the water will be displaced from the vehicle if you use the hose sheeting method

I noticed that you didn't mention your drying procedures (and supplies...towel-"types", for example) for:
-Auto glass surfaces; door jambs, sills, and seal-areas; tires and wheels;
areas under hood and under trunk lids; engine wipe-down.

-Most folks are keen on having these surfaces: to be dry...after their vehicles are washed, as well.
I know I am.

:)

Bob

c8n
10-15-2013, 08:38 AM
Tell me I'm scratching the paint....

I start with a dry waffle weave towel ..

I drop it on the roof...

I drag it by the corner....

I pull slowly across the roof and it scoops up the water...

There is ZERO pressure on the towel...


Am I scratching it?

Mike

On a clean car... probably not.
However, if a debris was missed, it may scratch even if you are not applying any pressure. As the towel gets wet, it will get heavier and that itself will create pressure of its own.

FUNX650
10-15-2013, 08:49 AM
Tell me I'm scratching the paint....
Am I scratching it?


Mike
IMHO:
You would be in a better position to tell us about any scratching occurring by using, for example:
-"Swirl finder" lights.
-Bright, overhead: "Natural light".

Let us know,
If you decide to do so.

Thanks.

:)

Bob

JJH
10-15-2013, 08:51 AM
Just depends on the hardness of the clearcoat. I would feel comfortable doing the drag method with a clearcoat that has a sealant on it such as Blackfire Wet Diamond or Optiseal.