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iron_worker
10-08-2013, 10:12 PM
Hey guys,

First time poster here but I've been hanging around this forum for a while and learning tons! I liked what I saw so much around here I placed a huge order with AG and got a GG 6" and 3" DA, wolfgang kit with swirl remover, final glaze, sealer, etc. I also picked up some glass polishing bits, a bunch of MF towels and many other goodies.

I should have taken a couple overall before pics of the car but of course I didn't think of that ...

http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u485/iron_worker/Detailing/Cobalt/20131006_153537_zpsa6bc075b.jpg (http://s1070.photobucket.com/user/iron_worker/media/Detailing/Cobalt/20131006_153537_zpsa6bc075b.jpg.html)

http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u485/iron_worker/Detailing/Cobalt/20131006_153546_zpsfa52b0e2.jpg (http://s1070.photobucket.com/user/iron_worker/media/Detailing/Cobalt/20131006_153546_zpsfa52b0e2.jpg.html)
The swirls are actually much worse than it shows but it's hard to capture on camera as you know.

http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u485/iron_worker/Detailing/Cobalt/20131006_163711_zpse73ff588.jpg (http://s1070.photobucket.com/user/iron_worker/media/Detailing/Cobalt/20131006_163711_zpse73ff588.jpg.html)
Water spots, scratches, and swirls all in one spot!

http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u485/iron_worker/Detailing/Cobalt/20131006_163624_zps30477a81.jpg (http://s1070.photobucket.com/user/iron_worker/media/Detailing/Cobalt/20131006_163624_zps30477a81.jpg.html)
But I got it looking pretty clear ...

http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u485/iron_worker/Detailing/Cobalt/20131006_163637_zpsbdfa50b4.jpg (http://s1070.photobucket.com/user/iron_worker/media/Detailing/Cobalt/20131006_163637_zpsbdfa50b4.jpg.html)
I experimented on the hood and was very pleased with the results so I applied my technique to the rest of the car the next day...

http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u485/iron_worker/Detailing/Cobalt/20131006_163654_zps37539c6b.jpg (http://s1070.photobucket.com/user/iron_worker/media/Detailing/Cobalt/20131006_163654_zps37539c6b.jpg.html)
Not sure what the speckles were ... almost looked like a metallic but I don't think it was, possibly over spray but neither clay nor polishing had any affect on them.

http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u485/iron_worker/Detailing/Cobalt/20131006_165224_zps86eca2ad.jpg (http://s1070.photobucket.com/user/iron_worker/media/Detailing/Cobalt/20131006_165224_zps86eca2ad.jpg.html)

http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u485/iron_worker/Detailing/Cobalt/20131007_164939_zps0aa383f1.jpg (http://s1070.photobucket.com/user/iron_worker/media/Detailing/Cobalt/20131007_164939_zps0aa383f1.jpg.html)
The sun was going down as I finished the whole car so you don't get the proper effect but the overall results were quite good.

http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u485/iron_worker/Detailing/Cobalt/20131007_164948_zps6ec99cba.jpg (http://s1070.photobucket.com/user/iron_worker/media/Detailing/Cobalt/20131007_164948_zps6ec99cba.jpg.html)

http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u485/iron_worker/Detailing/Cobalt/20131007_164957_zps083ce1ab.jpg (http://s1070.photobucket.com/user/iron_worker/media/Detailing/Cobalt/20131007_164957_zps083ce1ab.jpg.html)

http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u485/iron_worker/Detailing/Cobalt/20131007_165014_zps9682fb0a.jpg (http://s1070.photobucket.com/user/iron_worker/media/Detailing/Cobalt/20131007_165014_zps9682fb0a.jpg.html)
My ugly mug ... but pretty good DOI. lol

http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u485/iron_worker/Detailing/Cobalt/20131007_165022_zpsdcd68f6d.jpg (http://s1070.photobucket.com/user/iron_worker/media/Detailing/Cobalt/20131007_165022_zpsdcd68f6d.jpg.html)
Don't mind the oxidized wheels ... new wheels coming up this spring.

http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u485/iron_worker/Detailing/Cobalt/20131008_163538_zps3bd67290.jpg (http://s1070.photobucket.com/user/iron_worker/media/Detailing/Cobalt/20131008_163538_zps3bd67290.jpg.html)
The door panels were in really rough shape. I guess from hands and keys and such... There were a few scratches that I couldn't get out even after 3 passes with swirl remover.

http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u485/iron_worker/Detailing/Cobalt/20131008_163559_zps15e651d5.jpg (http://s1070.photobucket.com/user/iron_worker/media/Detailing/Cobalt/20131008_163559_zps15e651d5.jpg.html)
Basically all the swirls came out but anything that was a bit heavier than that remained. The clear seemed quite hard to cut.

http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u485/iron_worker/Detailing/Cobalt/20131008_163629_zpsc91393c9.jpg (http://s1070.photobucket.com/user/iron_worker/media/Detailing/Cobalt/20131008_163629_zpsc91393c9.jpg.html)
Very close up of around the door handle area.

My method:
Waterless wash
Clay bar entire car with clay lube
2 passes with orange pad and Wolfgang swirl remover
(3 passes on the doors)
1 pass with white pad and wolfgang final glaze
Meguiars NXT Tech Wax machine applied on black pad
(I was going to use Wolfgang sealant but was running out of time so I couldn't wait for it to set up)

I tried using some Meguiars UC in place of the wolfgang swirl remover to see if it had any more cut (also on an orange pad) ... but it seemed about the same.

I'm quite pleased with the results but feel like I probably could have used some more cutting power. Some of the scratches might have even needed to be wet sanded? I'm not too worried about it in this application since it was my guinea pig car. I really want to polish my truck ... which is coming soon hopefully.

I have my eye on the new micro fiber cutting pad system as this seems to be a good match for my GG DA machine. From what I've watched and read it gives excellent correcting power. Anyone want to offer some opinions on that or if I should consider going to a more aggressive foam pad or more aggressive compound? Will I have to step up to wet sanding for anything more than just a light swirl?

Thanks all!

Hope you enjoy my pics. I look forward to hearing your feedback.

IW

Pureshine
10-08-2013, 10:26 PM
Looks good and Welcome to AGO :)

Sicoupe
10-09-2013, 12:11 AM
Good job buddy! Welcome aboard:)

traveljunkie523
10-09-2013, 06:47 AM
Good results for a first time.

ken tuep
10-09-2013, 07:02 AM
Nice job! Were your passes section passes? 6-8 overlapping passes, 3 times, or just 3 passes over a section?

More passes may have helped if the latter. Chevrolet clearcoats are notoriously hard. You did really good, especially for what I'd consider a daily driver.

With your new tools(toys) you'll find you're gonna polish more often now just to "play". LOL

You can always focus on the bit deeper stuff later, that's how I approach most of my jobs. Including my own vehicles.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using AG Online

GenesisCoupe
10-09-2013, 07:42 AM
Just what we need, another Android user....




just kidding, very nice work! :)

Mike@DedicatedPerfection
10-09-2013, 07:47 AM
Welcome to AGO.

Nice job for a first post.

nissenc1337
10-09-2013, 08:25 AM
Yeha, you did a great job!

You may want to try Iron-X on those spots your clay didn't remove. It could be rail dust/iron embedded into your paint.

I agree with the posts above, double you section passes next time and see if you notice better results.

ShaunD
10-09-2013, 08:48 AM
Great first time, and welcome to the Geek.
What was your polisher speed set to for the three passes on the door? Also l, how fast were you moving the polisher across the area with heavy defects? Heavy down force is required to cut heavy defects; enough force so that you are getting about 1-2 revolutions of the pad/backing plate per second. All that said, you should get some 5-6 inch and 3 inch MF pads. Those with UC or D300 should remove a good portion of the heavy defects. Just be mindful of removing too much clear in heavy use areas of the car.
As for the speckling, has the car every been in or near a bodyshop? Also, a couple of rounds of an iron neutralizer/decontaminater are necessary, followed by a medium to aggressive clay. MF pads with very slow arm speed and firm down force would probably remove the majority of the speckling after treating for iron. Where s the speckling the worst? If you are seeing it on the hood then it may be pitting from abrasion from road debris.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using AG Online

iron_worker
10-09-2013, 08:49 AM
Thanks for the kind welcome everyone. :xyxthumbs:

I did 6 overlapping passes for each "pass" ... so I did 12 over the whole car and at least 18 on the doors. And that was on speed 6!

The more I look at the speckles in the paint the more I think it must be factory. You can't even really feel them being raised up. The car doesn't look like it's metallic from anything more than 1-2ft away but up close it's covered in little light speckles. Not that it really matters. lol

Oh and yes that is as daily driver as it gets. It sits outside every day, all day, through Canadian winters and all. The paint was *very* neglected before I got to it. It's my gf's car and she rarely even washed it. I guess I'll be taking on the washing duties for her vehicle now too.

I will have some interesting challenges with washing too since I leave in a condo so I have no access to water for washing and I don't have a lot of space to keep tools/supplies. I'm trying to devise a plan of how I can properly wash/dry my vehicles at the commercial hand wash place.

Thanks for looking everyone,

IW

iron_worker
10-09-2013, 08:56 AM
Great first time, and welcome to the Geek.
What was your polisher speed set to for the three passes on the door? Also l, how fast were you moving the polisher across the area with heavy defects? Heavy down force is required to cut heavy defects; enough force so that you are getting about 1-2 revolutions of the pad/backing plate per second. All that said, you should get some 5-6 inch and 3 inch MF pads. Those with UC or D300 should remove a good portion of the heavy defects. Just be mindful of removing too much clear in heavy use areas of the car.
As for the speckling, has the car every been in or near a bodyshop? Also, a couple of rounds of an iron neutralizer/decontaminater are necessary, followed by a medium to aggressive clay. MF pads with very slow arm speed and firm down force would probably remove the majority of the speckling after treating for iron. Where s the speckling the worst? If you are seeing it on the hood then it may be pitting from abrasion from road debris.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using AG Online

My polisher speed for cutting was set at 6 (I figured I needed all the power I could get). My arm speed was pretty slow though maybe by the end I could have been speeding up/rushing a bit due to time restraints. I have watched many AG and other detailing vids on paint corrections and so I was trying to mimic their arm speed and technique as best I could.


I was applying a medium pressure for cutting. The GG 6" has some decent power that it will keep spinning even with a good bit of pressure applied. The only time I really let up on the pressure was during the last couple section passes of my final glazing pass.

I will have to give my IronX a go on the spots to see if it has any effect.

I'm pretty interested in the MF cutting pad set from Megs. What is D300 btw?

I also really like the look of the Flex 3401 but from what I've read, it doesn't match well with MF cutting pads.

Thanks guys!

IW

ShaunD
10-09-2013, 09:44 AM
Did you use the GG 3" polisher on areas around the door handles?
D300 is the MF compound for the Meg's MF kit. UC is similar but less aggressive and may finish with less haze than d300. Any modern compound will work well with MF pads.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using AG Online

iron_worker
10-09-2013, 10:10 AM
You know, I was so in the zone with the 6" that I didn't even reach for the 3". I guess I also thought I needed as much power as I could get and my pad selection isn't as good with the 3". I only have a purple, white, and black pad for the 3".

This is the swirl remover I used:
Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover 3.0, car polish, polishing compound (http://www.autogeek.net/wolfgang-total-swirl-remover.html)

Would stepping up to this product have more cut?:
Wolfgang Uber Compound, car polish, polishing compound (http://www.autogeek.net/wolfgang-uber-compound.html)

Would it be better to step up to a more aggressive cutting compound/foam pad or would going in the MF cutting pad direction be better?

Thanks for all your advice. I truly appreciate it.

IW

vet
10-09-2013, 11:03 AM
Welcome! Good job!

Superman0440
10-09-2013, 03:16 PM
Nice jobbb