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View Full Version : Taking things up a notch



kdubski
10-02-2013, 05:39 PM
I'm a small time student detailer who makes most of his money off production detailing. This being said I've had my fair share of destroyed finishes (marred, swirls, and rotary holograms). I've attempted to remove some damage on few cars by request with a combination of m105/m205 and appropriate pads. With my porter cable this is not an easy task and rarely get over 85% correction on serious swirls, although many times I can get close to 95% if I have the time. That being said I notice many using the flex/rupes polishers for swirl removal. However, this being a D/A orbital, how does it differ from my 7242xp? I mean some of the work I see is just jaw dropping, how do you guys do it? Also, does the price justify the upgrade in quality/time?

Bill1234
10-02-2013, 05:46 PM
I almost sure the flex is a fixed rotation compared to the porter cable. I would stay with the porter cable and take a rotary class. Much safer idea

kdubski
10-02-2013, 05:46 PM
I realize there is a good amount of information on this forum from what I have read but not really much being specific as much, it's just comparing rotary vs DA. Thanks!

greatwhitenorth
10-02-2013, 08:18 PM
I almost sure the flex is a fixed rotation compared to the porter cable. I would stay with the porter cable and take a rotary class. Much safer idea

I disagree.
A flex will safely correct the paint to your desired level just as fast as a rotary but you will save a step because you won't be going back over your work with the PC. Get a small backing plate for the PC for tight areas

statusdetailing
10-02-2013, 09:50 PM
You can get jaw dropping results with mf pads on the 7424. It will be a little easier with a griots and even a little easier still, and smoother with a rupes.

rmagnus
10-02-2013, 11:11 PM
I'm a small time student detailer who makes most of his money off production detailing. This being said I've had my fair share of destroyed finishes (marred, swirls, and rotary holograms). I've attempted to remove some damage on few cars by request with a combination of m105/m205 and appropriate pads. With my porter cable this is not an easy task and rarely get over 85% correction on serious swirls, although many times I can get close to 95% if I have the time. That being said I notice many using the flex/rupes polishers for swirl removal. However, this being a D/A orbital, how does it differ from my 7242xp? I mean some of the work I see is just jaw dropping, how do you guys do it? Also, does the price justify the upgrade in quality/time?

Nothing wrong with the PC. It's about the least powerful polisher available but can stil do great correction work. Putting smaller backing plate on it and using MF pads will be about as aggressive as you can get with it.

I can't imagine using a PC for production work. Usually speed is important in this type of work. 85-95% correction is very good IMO.

Rupes and Flex are about the most powerful DAs out there. All DAs are safe to use w/o much risk of burning the paint.

kdubski
10-02-2013, 11:31 PM
Yeah with increasing demand I strive to work a little quicker and spending 8 hours on a single car with a PC is becoming a little tiring when I'm forced to do so. I've already adjusted my wash and wax's with appropriate chemicals and tools to be in and out withing 2-3 hours so when I spend all day working on a paints swirls it loses me money.

Love's Auto
10-26-2013, 01:04 AM
If you are trying to do complete paint correction with a PC it's going to take forever. I do production work and high end work as well. Whatever is making the money is where I'm going to be. With that said you need to always put money towards better tools and products and believe me your money will become easier to make when you have professional tools to rip through correction. We offer paint correction services that do not remove all the deep scratches because we choose not to weaken the clear coat on cars for future buffs. If you try to be like some of the guys in here you may find yourself burning the paint going for 100% correction. Instead offer what you can safely deliver and upgrade your polisher ASAP. Also, when you upgrade your polisher you will need to buy new pads and the list goes on. Hope this helps

statusdetailing
10-26-2013, 09:38 AM
If you are trying to do complete paint correction with a PC it's going to take forever. I do production work and high end work as well. Whatever is making the money is where I'm going to be. With that said you need to always put money towards better tools and products and believe me your money will become easier to make when you have professional tools to rip through correction. We offer paint correction services that do not remove all the deep scratches because we choose not to weaken the clear coat on cars for future buffs. If you try to be like some of the guys in here you may find yourself burning the paint going for 100% correction. Instead offer what you can safely deliver and upgrade your polisher ASAP. Also, when you upgrade your polisher you will need to buy new pads and the list goes on. Hope this helps

I don't do production work very often anymore, but I absolutely agree on your point of weakening clear coats. It's crazy to chase after every scratch.

Pureshine
10-26-2013, 09:58 AM
I agree with most of what everyone said except having to buy new pads. The pads you have will work with any Da.

Mike@DedicatedPerfection
10-30-2013, 03:54 AM
I'm a small time student detailer who makes most of his money off production detailing. This being said I've had my fair share of destroyed finishes (marred, swirls, and rotary holograms). I've attempted to remove some damage on few cars by request with a combination of m105/m205 and appropriate pads. With my porter cable this is not an easy task and rarely get over 85% correction on serious swirls, although many times I can get close to 95% if I have the time. That being said I notice many using the flex/rupes polishers for swirl removal. However, this being a D/A orbital, how does it differ from my 7242xp? I mean some of the work I see is just jaw dropping, how do you guys do it? Also, does the price justify the upgrade in quality/time?

For production work your best bet is the 3401. The difference with the Flex is that it is forced rotation and wont slow down on curved panels.

It is also a worthwhile upgrade for a quality machine to help you get through production work efficiently.