Black Nissian Titian Hood

[Darkoverlift]

This damage is only in the middle of the hood. The owners swear it has never been though a car wash. I can vouch he does keep it up. It actually just appeared one day out of the blue. He is a cop, so vandals? I want to fix it for him if possible. The surface is smooth to the touch too...

We have wet sanded with 2000 gritt and polished back with my PC, but it is not enough. Any suggestion? Random pics of the damage from the autogeek facebook page.


Tools on hand I can use: PC, Orange Pads from LC, Optima Poli-Seal, and Optima Fine Polish, 3M Polish (Light Duty)

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=678843662127082&set=p.678843662127082&type=1&theater

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=678844412127007&set=p.678844412127007&type=1&theater

[Evan.J]

As already stated on the face book page you need to go with 3000 grit to finish then the sanding marks need removed.

A rotary is the best tool for that but you can use a PC with a Microfiber cutting disc as well on a PC.

As for what it is I have no idea. Have you seen any improvment at all?

Are you able to tell if its in the clear or undter the clear in the basecoat?

[Mastercraft241]

No one here can be 100% sure, but those look to be done by improper washing techniques. You can see his strokes in the second picture. I'd suggest the owners log into AGO and learn the correct meathod of washing his car :).

[Mike Phillips]

To me, this picture showing straight line scratches looks just like the scratch pattern an automatic brush style car wash inflicts into a car's paint.

Here's your piicture "inserted". (I added it to your free gallery here on AGO)


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/Straight_Line_Scratches_02.jpg




Now compare the above scratch pattern to the scratch pattern I show in my article here,

Automatic Swirl Machine (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/54987-automatic-swirl-machine.html)


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1446/ImpalaDemo006.jpg


This is a full size, cropped out section taken from just above my finger in the above picture...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1446/ImpalaDemo006c.jpg


THere's more pictures in the article I linked to above plus information on the topic.


:)

[Mike Phillips]

I want to fix it for him if possible. The surface is smooth to the touch too...

We have wet sanded with 2000 grit and polished back with my PC, but it is not enough. Any suggestion?



While theoretically you can remove sanding marks with a Porter Cable dual action polisher it's the slowest and least effective way to do it.

The fastest way to remove sanding marks is with a rotary buffer, wool pad and quality compound.





Tools on hand I can use:

PC,
Orange Pads from LC,

Optima Poli-Seal, --> Light Cleaning Cleaner/Wax

and Optima Fine Polish, --> Fine Cut Polish

3M Polish (Light Duty) --> Fine Cut Polish




Basically you don't have any products that are realistically formulated to remove #2000 grit sanding marks.

If you look on the back of the 3M polish, if this is in their Professional Line it probably give directions for use with a Rotary Buffer, not a dual action polisher. So even if it did remove the sanding marks it will likely leave DA Haze.

You need to do one of two things...


1. Get a true aggressive compound.

2. Get a true aggressive compound and re-sand with a higher grit "finishing" paper, not a wet/dry paper.


When I was a kid, the local tool rental store would rent out rotary buffers for hardly any money at all. That's another option to at least get the sanding marks out. Afterwards you can remove the holograms with your PC.


Lots of very good compounds on the market now days that work with dual action polishers,

Optimum Compound II
Wolfgang Uber Compound
Menzerna FG 400
Meguiar's M105, M101, M100 and Ultimate Compound.


Most important... remember the clear layer of paint for a "Factory Finish" is around 2 mils.

Hold a 3M Post-It note between your finger and thumb and understand that 2 mils is usually thinner than a post-it note.

Sanding should always be one of the last options a person tries and if sanding is done, it's worth the money to use a finishing paper instead of an inexpensive wet/dry sanding paper.


And oh yeah...

Welcome to AutogeekOnline!

:)

[Mike Phillips]

If I can do this by hand... with enough time and only working a SMALL section at a time you can remove sanding marks using a PC...

How to remove wetsanding scratches by hand - FG 400 (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/58151-how-remove-wetsanding-scratches-hand-fg-400-a.html)


Here I did it with not a compound but a "Medium Cut Polish", (less aggressive than a compound.

Removing Scratches By Hand (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/31475-removing-scratches-hand.html)



And here I removed #1500 Grit Sanding Marks using a Bigfoot which is kind of like a PC in how it operates.

Removing #1500 Sanding Marks with Rupes Bigfoot 21 Polisher (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/70926-removing-1500-sanding-marks-rupes-bigfoot-21-polisher.html)



If all the above can be done then you can do it with a PC. I actually walked a guy through the process when he painted, sanded and then removed all the sanding marks out of a 1965 Mustang using a PC.

So it can be done.


Best thing is to get a true aggressive compound and even consider getting a fiber pad like the THIN Purple Foamed Wool Pads shown here,


http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/new-car-care-products/67338-new-lake-country-thin-wool-pads-heavy-correction-made-possible-da-3.html



:)

[ZimRandy]

Your profile doesn't state where you are located, but I'm sure that if there is a member local to you they might help, loan a buffer, or offer some product?



Randy