Picked up new car. Newbie needs advice..!

[shane83]

Hello everyone, new here and to auto detailing, but I have some questions about exterior care. I just bought my first brand new car (a 14' camry) and I just picked it up from the dealership this morning. I have a few questions on what I should do.

I want to protect the paint and shine of the car. For this, I have concluded from my research that the two best products are Collinite 476 or 845 wax to seal the paint. OR Klasse AIO and Klasse Sealant Glaze to deal the paint.

My question is, which one do ya'll recommend? I am leaning more towards the Collinite 845 as it has lots of good reviews on this website.

Also, since this is a brand new car, do I need to clay the paint before applying any wax/sealer? What about polishing the car before sealing it, is that necessary?

Thank you!:dblthumb2:

[Evan.J]

I would go with both!

I would also clay you car as well. Think about this when was it made in the factory? From there it was shipped by rail truck and so on. Then how long did it sit on the lot?

There can be a lot of rail dust industrial fall out pollen, tree sap and anything else that be transported by air that can fall onto you car and bond to the clear coat.

This is all about the baggie test



The Baggie Test - How to inspect for above surface bonded contaminants (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/27967-baggie-test-how-inspect-above-surface-bonded-contaminants.html)


After washing and drying your car, the next thing you want to do is to inspect the paint for what we call,

Above Surface Bonded Contaminants

These contaminants can be,


Tree Sap Mist
Industrial Fallout
Overspray Paint
Air-borne Dirt and Dust
Pollution
Road Grime
You can check for above surface bonded contaminants by feeling the horizontal surfaces with your clean, bare hand using your sense of touch to detect what will feel like little bumps or surface texture on the finish. This type of inspection works well and is a good general indicator of above surface bonded contaminants.

The Baggie Test
If you really want to feel what's going on at the surface level of your car's paint or your customer's car's paint, then use "The Baggie Test" when inspecting the paint for above surface bonded contaminants.

Better yet, if you want to share with your customer one of the problems with their car's paint that you're going to correct, let them also do "The Baggie Test" with you. The average car owner doesn't know what detailing clay is, how to use it or the benefits of using detailing clay to clay automotive paint, let alone how to test for above surface bonded contaminants.

Sharing this little tidbit of knowledge with your customer will demonstrate to them that you really know your business and later, after you've finished the job, letting them feel the now smooth and slippery paint will solidify their trust in your expertise. This can help you to retain their business and potentially led to referrals via word-of-mouth advertising.

To do "The Baggie Test", simply use a clean sandwich baggie by placing your hand inside the baggie and then feeling the horizontal surfaces like the hood, roof and trunk lid. The film of plastic acts to intensify the surface texture created by contaminants bonded to the paint making it more dramatic to your sense of touch when you feel the paint through the baggie.


The Baggie Test
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/858/PaintCleaningByHand021.jpg


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/858/PaintCleaningByHand022.jpg



You can also inspect the vertical panels and if you detect above surface bonded contaminants on these areas then they should be clayed also. Generally speaking, air-borne contaminants will land and settle on the horizontal surfaces but drift past the vertical panels where they will land on the ground. The main exception to this rule is any air-borne contaminant that is sticky, like Tree Sap Mist or Overspray Paint.




Resources

The 2 primary benefits of using detailing clay to clay paint (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-make-money-detailing-cars/27969-2-primary-benefits-using-detailing-clay-clay-paint.html)


Show Car Garage Videos

How detailing clay works and how to use detailing clay to remove above surface bonded contaminants (http://www.palmbeachmotoring.net/ascg-videos/clay-bar.html)



:)

As for polishing you need to determine the condition of the paint by examining it:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/off-topic/38689-what-condition-paint-your-vehicles.html

Use the sun and your ultimate flash light. The sun will show you every imperfection on the paint.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/43192-let-there-light.html

[shane83]

Hey Evan, I am a little confused. Do you want me to use both Klasse AND Collinite wax in tandem? Wouldn't that be a bit overkill?

I just picked up the car today and the dealership told me it just arrived this morning, I saw a bunch of trucks still unloading other camrys' and the new 2014 corollas.

So really, it was only there at the dealership for 5-6 hours until I picked it up this afternoon.

However, I will try the baggie test and see how the paint is. The clay won't damage the paint, will it? I'm just a bit paranoid, thats all lol..

Thanks

[Evan.J]

Hey Evan, I am a little confused. Do you want me to use both Klasse AND Collinite wax in tandem? Wouldn't that be a bit overkill?

Nope should have been more specific. Use both 845 and 476. You will apply you 845 let that cure then apply 476 over top the next day this is called topping.

I just picked up the car today and the dealership told me it just arrived this morning, I saw a bunch of trucks still unloading other camrys' and the new 2014 corollas.

So really, it was only there at the dealership for 5-6 hours until I picked it up this afternoon.

However, I will try the baggie test and see how the paint is. The clay won't damage the paint, will it? I'm just a bit paranoid, thats all lol..

No the clay won't damage the paint is away way. More than likely you will feel something on the surface of the paint.

Thanks

Replies in red :props:

[shane83]

Okay great, thank you!

There's a ton to read so I'll be going over all of these threads. One more thing, is it okay to wash the car at the gas station, bring it home, completely dry it with the right cloth before applying the wax?

I'm asking this because I don't have any car shampoo, foaming gun, pressure washer at home, and I've always just washed my car at the gas station car wash over the years.

[c8n]

Its fine to do that but don't use any of their applicators. Brush and etcs.
Car soap is fairly cheap and unless your car is covered with mud, pressure washer is not absolutely necessary altho nice to have. Just use proper technique and you should be fine w/o a pressure washer.

[custmsprty]

Klasse AIO and Klasse Sealant, looks great and lasts a long time. I was really impressed with the shine on white with the sealnt. I'm still getting good beading on my wifes car after 7 weeks. Down here in Florida this time of year beats any product to death. HEAVY TROPICAL RAINS AND SUN. I did my truck hood with Menz. Powerlock and Colorlock Carnauba 3 weeks ago and barely beading anymore. I like their polishes but don't think these two products hold up well in our Florida conditions. Neither vehicles are garage kept.

[ScottB]

wash -- clay --polish -- Opti-coat

[kantonburg]

Okay great, thank you!

There's a ton to read so I'll be going over all of these threads. One more thing, is it okay to wash the car at the gas station, bring it home, completely dry it with the right cloth before applying the wax?

I'm asking this because I don't have any car shampoo, foaming gun, pressure washer at home, and I've always just washed my car at the gas station car wash over the years.


I ventured onto this site researching a Meguiar's product a friend said was hard to find and come to find out it was discontinued. 7 months later I'm still reading and learning. I will say I found the best place to start is Autogeek's YouTube Channel (http://www.youtube.com/user/autogeek)

Watch everything. You'll learn a ton. Watch video's on claying a vehicle and how to do it and what it does. Watch how to videos on polishing. This is a great place to start.

[ClayR]

Wash, Iron-X, move car inside where it will remain for three days, Nanoskin Autoscrub with glide, polish with either Gtechniq P2 or Detailers Coating Prep Polish, Very light microfiber wipe with Gtechniq Panel Wipe sprayed on the Microfiber, Opti coat, wait 48hrs, wipe car off with distilled water and microfiber cloth, apply second layer of opti coat.

Toronto is a wonderful city but I hear winter is ferocious.

[MarkD51]

Congrats on the new car. Those Camry's are really nice.

Nothing at all wrong with using either the Collinite, or Klasse products. You could do a lot worse for sure. And perhaps do a little better also, dependent on the final product applied.

Some good advice earlier, about getting the paint clean, and contaminant free first. This is important no matter what you finally decide to use as a Sealant, and/or a Wax.

Once you have perfected the paint, then it's time for the protection.

Another product you might want to consider, which has recently hit the Autogeek Store, is the DP Paint Coating. This is a really nice product, fairly easy to apply and work with, and the DP Paint Prep should be used beforehand.

It's a simple spray on, and spread product, and then come back 5-10 minutes later to smooth-even the finish. No tricky drying, or set up times involved like some other expensive Paint Coatings, and is quite foolproof.
Takes about 15 minutes to coat the entire car.

Don't forget protecting trim, and rubber. A product like Carpro CQuartz DLX would be a very good choice for any-all plastic trim, products such as Ultima Trim-Tire Guard (UTTG) or Wolfgang Exterior Trim Sealant (WETS) are great for things like Rubber Weatherstripping, and a water based Tire Protectant such as Optimum Optibond Tire Gel is a really good product, and gives much better protection than the products from the local brick-mortar stores.

These are just a few suggestions, and some of the products I have used, and liked.

Initial outlay of cash is of course a bit more money, but overall, and in the long run, these products will actually be more economical on your pocketbook because of how well they last, and protect.
Best of luck, and enjoy your stay here, a great place, with great folks!
Mark

[MirrorFinish]

I would look also at CQuartz ceramic paint sealant, it adds a hard shell to the car and has great UV protection.

Two coats then topped up with Re Load every three months and you have a 2-3 year protection to the car.

[MarkD51]

Sorry for the abbreviations, as "DP", is Detailer's Pro, a house brand here.

Due to the "newness" of this product, the many of us who have used this product have not yet personally confirmed the longevity of this coating, which is said to last "up to" 2 years. But it does look to be quite promising.

This coating gives a slickness to the finish which is amazing, and it also gives a glasslike candy coat look to the paint.

Although designed for paint, it can be used on wheels, plastic trim, headlights-tail lights and protect them as well with no ill effects.

It seems to offer a hard shell protection, and this will be beneficial in protecting against future swirling from washing-drying.

The 4oz spray bottle will easily coat your car 8-9 times, or coat your car, and 8, or 9 other cars. The 4oz bottle is said to give up to 15 applications, so for the money spent, it actually is economical. I believe it is also currently on sale here as well. I paid full price when I bought it, and feel it was well worth the money spent.
Mark

[MarkD51]

Hello everyone, new here and to auto detailing, but I have some questions about exterior care. I just bought my first brand new car (a 14' camry) and I just picked it up from the dealership this morning. I have a few questions on what I should do.

I want to protect the paint and shine of the car. For this, I have concluded from my research that the two best products are Collinite 476 or 845 wax to seal the paint. OR Klasse AIO and Klasse Sealant Glaze to deal the paint.

My question is, which one do ya'll recommend? I am leaning more towards the Collinite 845 as it has lots of good reviews on this website.

Also, since this is a brand new car, do I need to clay the paint before applying any wax/sealer? What about polishing the car before sealing it, is that necessary?

Thank you!:dblthumb2:

Shane83, I've used Collinite products for years, they are quite durable products. Most, if not all Synthetic sealants can be topped with any of the Collinite Waxes. #845 Insulator Liquid Wax is said to be a Hybrid product, containing both Waxes, and Synthetic Sealants.

And it is possible that others like #476 Super Doublecoat Paste are actually Hybrids? I never read such, but it is possible.

#476 is not hard to apply, or remove provided the Wax is fresh, it is applied thin, and the temps-humidity are within a suitable range. Applying this paste in 40 degree temps would prove harder to work. Same with applying in open sunlight.

Since you live in the north, the hardest things your vehicle will face might be road salts. I know some areas use a sand type product on roads also. In the dead of winter with extremely cold temps, it then becomes quite hard to rinse these nasties off a vehicle, thus a vehicle has to sit with these nasties sitting on the vehicle for some time commonly.

This is where the variety of more permanent type paint coatings may excel, as I do believe even regardless of Collinite's claims, road salt can and will take its toll, given enough time, and exposure.

Another great coating product you may wish to seriously consider, would be a product like Carpro CQuartz UK. Then simply every so often you top-refresh this product with Carpro Reload Sealant. This is basically as simple as using a Spray Detailer after a wash, it is a wipe on, and walk away product.

Been here almost a year now, and have read basically nothing but glowing reviews-comments about any of the Carpro Products. These are all very good, you cannot go wrong using the entire Carpro system to protect your vehicle. Everything I've used from them so far works exactly as they claim.

As I mentioned earlier, the Carpro CQuartz DLX Trim protectant-restorer is outstanding, and lasts.

Again, welcome to the forum, and hope you, and others here haven't minded my comments.
Mark

[shane83]

Wash, Iron-X, move car inside where it will remain for three days, Nanoskin Autoscrub with glide, polish with either Gtechniq P2 or Detailers Coating Prep Polish, Very light microfiber wipe with Gtechniq Panel Wipe sprayed on the Microfiber, Opti coat, wait 48hrs, wipe car off with distilled water and microfiber cloth, apply second layer of opti coat.

Toronto is a wonderful city but I hear winter is ferocious.

Yes, great city but winters can be tough. Actually, it hasn't been that bad for the past few years. I remember 10 years ago the winters were brutal. Thanks global warming? Im the MAN

Anyways, thanks for the tips everyone. And Mark, thats a lot of great info! Learning a lot from you guys.

Is IronX necessary on a brand new car? I thought claying would get rid of all the contaminants on the paint. The wheels are brand new so there really shouldn't be any rust/road grime on them. I really only drove it for like 40km after picking it up yesterday.

Mark, I looked at the CarPro UK kit and yes, that is another great option in lieu of the Collinite wax/sealnts.

Do I have to polish the vehicle after claying? I watched the video Evan posted on how to assess the paint but to me, it looks great even before claying...I will try to assess the paint again after claying and look for the difference. If its nice, smooth, and shiny, do I just go onto the next step - being the waxes/sealants or the car pro kit?

Here are some picturse for yall. This whole week has been beautiful out. Nice, sunny, and warm! Including the weekend. I'm planning to use the upcoming weekend to begin the work on her.

http://i.imgur.com/Mmb7g2L.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/4HT4JG5.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/gFYnmyN.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/4UQMR2s.jpg