Just not glossy enough...

[scooterguitar]

Been awhile my friends...
So, new car (Nissan Juke) metallic maroon (I guess)...
I've polished a few times and tried all my old tricks and various products.
Thing is, it just doesn't seem to be "glossy" enough for me! Looks really good of course, but its missing something still.
I've tried all sorta of combos, etc. Wolfgang, BF, Pinnacle, etc.
Is there a magic product that's gonna make this thing pop?
It does have lots of orange peel, but I'm not gonna mess with that.
21311

[scooterguitar]

21312

[dorkiedoode]

Did you add any glaze into the mix?

[scooterguitar]

Only glaze I did try was blacklight.
I've tried sealers, waxes, combos, etc.
Thinking maybe I'll strip it, polish again and...? :)

[mbkite]

Possibly micro maring look closely do a test spot or two with different pads and polish

[tuscarora dave]

A rotary application of SF4500 doing 20 section passes in each work section with a superfine foam pad should do the trick.:buffing:

[swanicyouth]

I've noticed SF4500 on a soft foam finishing pad really does add something. It can't really be seen until you step back and look at the car. I don't think you could pick it up with a tape line. Same thing with Optimum Finish Polish. I've noticed this with a DA.

Of course, the hot polish now is CarPro's Reflections. I believe I remember reading that they have proven it boosts gloss compared to other polishes with a gloss meter - or something like that.

Like everything else CarPro, I'm sure it delivers.

[scooterguitar]

Yes, the Menz sounds like a good try. Though I only see the large bottles and I know if never use 1/4 that much over the next few years:(
I do have Meg's 205 I haven't tried. would my old bottle of Menz final polish be nearly as effective?
Open to all ideas my friends!
Thanks

[mpkav]

I just got my bottle of Reflections in the mail. I won't be able to use it for about a month though!!

[swanicyouth]

I just got my bottle of Reflections in the mail. I won't be able to use it for about a month though!!

Are you in some sort of detailing "time out"?

[FUNX650]

A rotary application of SF4500 doing 20 section passes in each work section with a superfine foam pad should do the trick.:buffing:
^^^:iagree:^^^

"Burnishing" the paint will do the trick!

(I won't call it the "J"-word, thereby (hopefully) avoiding paying any royalties to: killrwheels@autogeek/Scott)

Im the MAN

Bob

[birdog]

Are you in some sort of detailing "time out"?


Hahahahahahahahahah!!!!! Now that's funny.

[ScottB]

085rd and then Pinnacle Liquid Souveran ... nice on dark metallic reds and burgundys

[scooterguitar]

Thanks, Scott...you always came through for me!
I tried an old sample of Pinnacle finishing polish today, followed by a CG glaze, then WG sealer and topped with some old Natty blue. Just did the good to see how it looks on better light.
I'm almost thinking might be the extreme amount of orange peel and just how the paint is perhaps. It looks great, but just not hitting me like it does on other cars.
I'll break out my vintage bottle of liquid Souv when I wash it next time.

[beamerstrumpet]

I say attack the orange peel issue. if its got OP then no matter what you do your not going to get what your after. Here is a refresher from Mike:

Making the Metallic Flake Pop! - Popping versus Muting



One of the goals everyone has that owns a car with a metallic finish is to figure out how to make the metalflake pop.
Pop Definition
By the word "pop", people mean make the pretty, reflective shiny flakes in the basecoat easy to see through the clear coat.
Because the majority of all cars with a metallic paint job have a clear coat over them, there's no way to physically affect the actual metallic flakes under the clear layer of paint. So to get the metallic flake to POP you want to do two thing, the first is the most important.
1. Maximize the clarity of the clear coat
2. Maximize the smoothness of the clear coat
Maximize the clarity of the clear coat
The way you maximize the clarity of a clear coat finish is you remove as many of the topical and sub-surface defects as possible without compromising or abrading through the clear layer finish.

This is done through a combination of the below,
• Wetsanding to remove defects and orange peel
• Compounding to remove deeper below surface defects like swirls, scratches and water spots
• Polishing to either refine the results from the compounding step or remove shallow below surface defects like swirls, scratches and water spots where a true compound isn't needed.
Maximize the smoothness of the clear coat
The way you maximize the smoothness of the clear coat finish is by removing any above surface bonded contaminants as possible and if you have enough paint on the car, then to remove as much orange peel or surface texture like mottling as possible without compromising or abrading through the clear layer finish.

Keep in mind, anytime you wetsand paint, which removes paint, you're then going to have to compound and polish the paint and both of these procedure will also remove paint, so it's vitally important that you are working on a custom paint job or you have the experience, skill and confidence to carefully wetsand a factory finish.

Maximizing the smoothness is done through a combination of the below,
• Claying the paint or using a product like the Speedy Surface Prep Towel to remove above surface bonded contaminants
• Wetsanding or dampsanding to remove orange peel, surface texture, mottling
• Compounding to remove and/or level surface imperfections
• Polishing to either refine the results from the compounding step or remove shallow below surface defects like swirls, scratches and water spots where a true compound isn't needed.
Obviously, between the two different goals of maximizing clarity and smoothness there are some overlapping procedures that you can do and which procedures you use will always be determined by the paint itself and your skill level.

Wetsanding paint should be reserved for custom paint jobs where the top coat of clear paint is purposefully sprayed on thicker by the painter because he knows the paint will be wetsanded. Wetsanding can be used by professionals and serious enthusiasts for factory paint jobs if and when the desire is strong enough to overcome the hardness and thinness factors that make sanding factory paint risky.

Besides wetsanding though, the majority of us can safely do the following relatively safely,
• Claying or using a product like the Speedy Surface Prep Towel to remove above surface bonded contaminants.
• Compounding.
• Polishing.
Making the metalflake pop!
Below are the results from the Test Spot I performed to an all original 1968 Firebird Convertible except that it has been repainted with a basecoat/clearcoat finish.

When the car arrived I inspected the paint and documented with video and hi res pictures that the clear layer was in fact filled with swirls and scratches and this was clouding the clear layer hiding the beauty and definition of the metallic flakes in the basecoat.

My Test Spot not only was used to prove my paint polishing system but to also show the owner what the paint could truly look like and in the process make the metallic flake pop.

If you have a metallic or metal flake paint job on your car, truck or suv, you can too can get the metallic finish to pop by evaluating the finish and then doing the practical and safe procedures appropriate to your car's finish and your skill level and maximize the clarity and smoothness of the clear coat.



For this project we used,
Optimum Hyper-Compound
Optimum Hyper-Polish
Optimum Car Wax
Lake Country 5" Hybrid Pads
Lake Country 5.5" Hydro-Tech Pads
Flex 3401 Forced Rotation Dual Action Polisher
Griot's Garage 6" Random Orbital Polisher
Porter Cable 7424XP

Any quality compounds, polishes, pads and tools will create the same results.