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lunchboxmunchy
09-04-2013, 01:19 PM
Hey Geeks. I'm curious as to the different definitions used to describe the different stages of paint correction to clients when they ask. Thanks.
Feed back please

greatwhitenorth
09-04-2013, 02:22 PM
I call it all levels of "compounding"
Any Tom, bill and Doug can "polish". But you pay professionals to compound ;) haha

zmcgovern45
09-04-2013, 02:33 PM
One Step Correction - Typically carried out with a medium or fine polish to remove light scratches and swirls. You want your product/pad to finish down absolutely perfectly with no signs of haze or marring. If you see haze or marring, you will need to use a less aggressive product and/or pad OR proceed with a 2-step process instead of the 1 step process.

Common Products/Pads: M205, SPF, or PF2500 + LC White Polishing Pad*.


Two Step Correction - Typically begins with a heavier cutting compound used to remove moderate to heavy swirls, scratches, water marks, etching, etc and is followed up with a finishing polish to help refine the finish and restore a brilliant, glossy finish. You will see some light haze/marring after your initial compounding step. This should be completely removed with a finishing polish/pad. If you are unable to remove the haze/marring with only 1 finishing step, you need to reduce the aggressiveness of your cutting pad and/or product or proceed with a 3+ step process.

Common Products/Pads: MF Cutting Pads w/ D300, M105 or FG400 followed by LC White or Black Foam pad with M205, PF2500, or SPF*.


3+ Step Correction (I refer to this as a "restoration") - Begins with heavy cutting/compounding and possibly spot sanding with the hopes of removing nearly every defect in the paint. This is followed up by a series of 2 or more polishing steps to further refine the finish and produce the ultimate "wow factor".

Common Products/Pads: PFW Pads or MF Cutting Pads w/ M105 or FG400, followed by Orange Light cutting pad or white polishing pad w/ M205, PF2500, or SPF and finally FF4500 with black, blue, or crimson foam pads*.

*Note: Every vehicle is different and test spots should be carried out to determine the best product/pad combination for that particular situation. The above examples may be COMPLETELY WRONG for your particular application!

I personally do not recommend more than a 2 step procedure for most daily driven vehicles as clear coat preservation is always an important factor. A 2 step process can usually produce the dramatic results that your client is after, and typically only the deepest of RIDS and swirls will remain.

Hope that helps?

-Zach

Reveddie25
09-04-2013, 02:50 PM
One Step Correction - Typically carried out with a medium or fine polish to remove light scratches and swirls. You want your product/pad to finish down absolutely perfectly with no signs of haze or marring. If you see haze or marring, you will need to use a less aggressive product and/or pad OR proceed with a 2-step process instead of the 1 step process.

Common Products/Pads: M205, SPF, or PF2500 + LC White Polishing Pad*.


Two Step Correction- Typically begins with a heavier cutting compound used to remove moderate to heavy swirls, scratches, water marks, etching, etc and is followed up with a finishing polish to help refine the finish and restore a brilliant, glossy finish. You will see some light haze/marring after your initial compounding step. This should be completely removed with a finishing polish/pad. If you are unable to remove the haze/marring with only 1 finishing step, you need to reduce the aggressiveness of your cutting pad and/or product or proceed with a 3+ step process.

Common Products/Pads: MF Cutting Pads w/ D300, M105 or FG400 followed by LC White or Black Foam pad with M205, PF2500, or SPF*.


Three+ Step Correction (I refer to this as a "restoration") - Begins with heavy cutting/compounding and possibly spot sanding with the hopes of removing nearly every defect in the paint. This is followed up by a series of 2 or more polishing steps to further refine the finish and produce the ultimate "wow factor".

Common Products/Pads: PFW Pads or MF Cutting Pads w/ M105 or FG400, followed by Orange Light cutting pad or white polishing pad w/ M205, PF2500, or SPF and finally FF4500 with black, blue, or crimson foam pads*.

*Note: Every vehicle is different and test spots should be carried out to determine the best product/pad combination for that particular situation. The above examples may be COMPLETELY WRONG for your particular application!

I personally do not recommend more than a 2 step procedure for most daily driven vehicles as clear coat preservation is always an important factor. A 2 step process can usually produce the dramatic results that your client is after, and typically only the deepest of RIDS and swirls will remain.

hernandez.art13
09-04-2013, 03:19 PM
What would be equivalent in the Menzerna line to 3M Rubbing compound to remove sanding marks on repaints?

21169

^M105 did not have enough cut from my experience to remove these sanding marks. So I switched to 3M rubbing compound.

But would like to try a Meguiars line even Menzerna

For Meguiars it's M101 or M100?

NickZ28
09-04-2013, 03:22 PM
Reveddie25...why did you copy zmcgovern45's post and post as your own????

zmcgovern45
09-04-2013, 03:24 PM
What would be equivalent in the Menzerna line to 3M Rubbing compound to remove sanding marks on repaints?

21169

^M105 did not have enough cut from my experience to remove these sanding marks. So I switched to 3M rubbing compound.

But would like to try a Meguiars line even Menzerna

For Meguiars it's M101 or M100?

What grit sand paper were you using?

IME M105 can easily remove 2000 grit sanding marks when paired with a MF cutting pad. I have never tried removing anything heavier than 2000 grit.


M100, M105 and Menzerna FG400 all advertise the ability to remove 1200 grit sanding marks.

M101 just says "Ultra-fast & reliable sanding mark removal."



Reveddie25...why did you copy zmcgovern45's post and post as your own????

'cause I'm special :dunno:

hernandez.art13
09-04-2013, 03:27 PM
and how would you guys compare PF2500 to M205?

Will be getting one or the other

hernandez.art13
09-04-2013, 03:28 PM
I went all the way up to 3000.

Was just working body shop style. (Fast) lol

zmcgovern45
09-04-2013, 03:28 PM
and how would you guys compare PF2500 to M205?

Will be getting one or the other

PF2500 has more cut than M205 - both finish down very well........ this has little/nothing to do with the original question that was posted in this thread so let's keep it on topic.


I went all the way up to 3000.

Was just working body shop style. (Fast) lol
^So how about working the proper way - the "detailing style"... makes a lot more sense don't you think?

hernandez.art13
09-04-2013, 03:29 PM
Didn't want to start another thread. But ok will do

zmcgovern45
09-04-2013, 03:32 PM
Didn't want to start another thread. But ok will do

LOL - kinda funny from the person who has started 76 threads in 4 months... but yeah, those questions have been answered in many other threads, so you can find all the info you need in existing threads.

hernandez.art13
09-04-2013, 03:35 PM
Thank you for answering the steps for me. :)

lunchboxmunchy
09-04-2013, 03:55 PM
Wow. Y'all answered my questions. You can have the thread. It's ok. Lol.

Keep Calm & Chive On

VP Mark
09-04-2013, 05:45 PM
LOL - kinda funny from the person who has started 76 threads in 4 months... but yeah, those questions have been answered in many other threads, so you can find all the info you need in existing threads.

A little harsh?