Placing an order soon, have some last minute questions about using megs nxt2.0 wax

[fst89lx]

I hope to order my first DA and accessories either today or tomorrow, I have some last minute questions about the wax that I plan to use, which is Meguiar's nxt 2.0 tech wax (liquid)

One of the cars that I am applying this wax to is painted with single stage paint that is very heavily oxidized. I will do a very heavy application of megs #7 show car glaze, polish with Wolfgang total swirl remover 3.0, then wolfgang finishing glaze 3.0, then the nxt 2.0 tech wax on top.

The instructions for the nxt 2.0 on Autogeek's store says " Tech Wax 2.0 is meant to be used on a freshly washed car free of all paint contaminants. A detailing clay will help you accomplish that. A pre-wax cleaner will also properly prepare your paint for the application of NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0. Use a foam pad for hand applications, and a fine, foam pad on a dual action buffer if you choose machine application."

The bottle itself just says "If surface has contamination, blemishes, or deep swirl marks, surface preparation with Meguiar's scratch x or meguiars smooth surface clay kit may be required for optimal results"

Do I need to use a pre-wax cleaner or IPA wipedown before I apply this wax or can I apply it after I buff off the finishing glaze?
Will using a pre-wax cleaner / IPA wipedown have any type of negative effect on the steps that I have done previously? I am worried that applying the #7 heavy and allowing it to "soak" into the paint will be for nothing if I use a pre-wax cleaner or IPA wipedown afterwards.

Thank you!

[mwoolfso]

Do I need to use a pre-wax cleaner or IPA wipedown before I apply this wax or can I apply it after I buff off the finishing glaze? Not with the process you outlined; it isn't necessary.

Will using a pre-wax cleaner / IPA wipedown have any type of negative effect on the steps that I have done previously? I am worried that applying the #7 heavy and allowing it to "soak" into the paint will be for nothing if I use a pre-wax cleaner or IPA wipedown afterwards. Correct, you should be worried. IPA has no additional lubrication beyond the water. And with the alcohol increasing the rate of evaporation you will likely be "damaging" this particular layer. So.... don't IPA. Prior to applying the wax you can QD that layer or even perform a rinseless wash.

Thank you!

....

[ScottB]

Why use a pure glaze "before" polishing ???

[The Guz]

This is always a good article to read for single stage paint.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/66800-4-steps-restore-single-paint-paint-1972-mercedes-benz-280-se.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/25304-secret-removing-oxidation-restoring-show-car-finish-antique-single-stage-paints.html

[AC in OC]

I hope to order my first DA and accessories either today or tomorrow, I have some last minute questions about the wax that I plan to use, which is Meguiar's nxt 2.0 tech wax (liquid)

One of the cars that I am applying this wax to is painted with single stage paint that is very heavily oxidized. I will do a very heavy application of megs #7 show car glaze, polish with Wolfgang total swirl remover 3.0, then wolfgang finishing glaze 3.0, then the nxt 2.0 tech wax on top.

The instructions for the nxt 2.0 on Autogeek's store says " Tech Wax 2.0 is meant to be used on a freshly washed car free of all paint contaminants. A detailing clay will help you accomplish that. A pre-wax cleaner will also properly prepare your paint for the application of NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0. Use a foam pad for hand applications, and a fine, foam pad on a dual action buffer if you choose machine application."

The bottle itself just says "If surface has contamination, blemishes, or deep swirl marks, surface preparation with Meguiar's scratch x or meguiars smooth surface clay kit may be required for optimal results"

Do I need to use a pre-wax cleaner or IPA wipedown before I apply this wax or can I apply it after I buff off the finishing glaze?
Will using a pre-wax cleaner / IPA wipedown have any type of negative effect on the steps that I have done previously? I am worried that applying the #7 heavy and allowing it to "soak" into the paint will be for nothing if I use a pre-wax cleaner or IPA wipedown afterwards.

Thank you!

Since this is a single stage paint, your 1st step is definitely correct. Using the #7 glaze with a terry cloth will help bring back the color, while abrading the oxidized paint off. I did this recently on this job: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/68308-resurrection-breathing-new-life-into-dead-paint.html.

I actually applied #7 twice, with the 2nd coat soaking in overnight. Then did the compound/polish steps. Once the paint was wiped clean of the polish residue, I applied one more application of #7 to even everything out, and then wiped that off prior to the paste wax. I did not use any IPA, and as you can see the results did not suffer because I skipped the IPA wipedown.

Per the instructions you quoted above, it's use is meant to be on clean paint. So using a polishing step or a pre-wax cleaner will produce the best results. Since you are already doing that in your process, there's no need for a pre-wax cleaner. Just make sure you wipe the surface clean of the residues, using the http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/19956-final-wipe.html technique. Just go slowly over the whole car after you've gone through each step, to make sure you've picked it all up. You could do a waterless wash, as suggested, if you want.

[fst89lx]

Why use a pure glaze "before" polishing ???

According to the two articles underneath your post (which are the main motivation/inspiration to do this particular car btw) that is how its done. I would have thought that I would do all the swirl removal first, then final polish, then glaze, and finally wax. However after reading as many of his articles as possible, I realized that Mike is the man so I will do as he says :)

mwoolfso and AC in OC Thank you! good to know that I don't need to do the pre wax cleaner or IPA and that if I do it will be detrimental to what I am doing. I will also probably do another light coat of #7 prior to wax as you did, this paint needs as much help as it can get!

[fst89lx]

AC in OC that Porsche looks awesome! I hope I can get mine to turn out that well. I will admit I haven't read the article in depth yet so you may have mentioned this, but how much 7 did you use? I have about a bottle and a half in my possession and I am unsure if that is enough.

[AC in OC]

According to the two articles underneath your post (which are the main motivation/inspiration to do this particular car btw) that is how its done. I would have thought that I would do all the swirl removal first, then final polish, then glaze, and finally wax. However after reading as many of his articles as possible, I realized that Mike is the man so I will do as he says :)

mwoolfso and AC in OC Thank you! good to know that I don't need to do the pre wax cleaner or IPA and that if I do it will be detrimental to what I am doing. I will also probably do another light coat of #7 prior to wax as you did, this paint needs as much help as it can get!

Follow his steps to the 'T', and you'll get great results. It was the 1st time I have ever done a SS paint restore, so the results are based upon reading those articles thoroughly, and asking Mike any follow-up questions I had.


AC in OC that Porsche looks awesome! I hope I can get mine to turn out that well. I will admit I haven't read the article in depth yet so you may have mentioned this, but how much 7 did you use? I have about a bottle and a half in my possession and I am unsure if that is enough.

Thanks. I used up one full bottle of #7 in the first two applications. The third application was very minimal, as I just went over the car w/ a light application, not heavy like before. Keep in mind that it was a small car. I don't know what size vehicle you'll be working on, but a bottle & a half could do the trick. You use less and less with each application, which also gets easier with each application. The first one is what uses the most and kicks your butt, since you're exerting the most pressure.

[StoneRaizer]

I'm concerned about using Tech Wax on single stage paint. You didn't say which car you were detailing, but if you're working with single stage paint most likely the car is at least 30 years old. There isn't any "wax" in TechWax - it's all synthetic polymers, so I'm concerned that it may look too reflective and unnatural on top of that old paint. I'd go with Blackfire Wet Diamond instead. It also is a synthetic sealant but has the appearance of a carnauba wax. You'll get that deep, wet, carnauba-like glow with the durability and ease of application of a synthetic sealant.

[AC in OC]

If you want to stick with a liquid wax, I would suggest when you place your order to select Pinnacle Liquid Souveran Wax as your "free sample", since your order will be over the $95 qualifying limit. You could use that in lieu of the NXT, and still have some left over for another car.

Good timing for an order, since there's a 20% sale going on. You won't be able to use it for your DA purchase, but you can get those additional items. DP Max Wax is a good quality paste wax, if you want to go that route. It'll only be $32 for an 8 oz. tub w/ the sale, which will last a long time.

[fst89lx]

I'm concerned about using Tech Wax on single stage paint. You didn't say which car you were detailing, but if you're working with single stage paint most likely the car is at least 30 years old. There isn't any "wax" in TechWax - it's all synthetic polymers, so I'm concerned that it may look too reflective and unnatural on top of that old paint. I'd go with Blackfire Wet Diamond instead. It also is a synthetic sealant but has the appearance of a carnauba wax. You'll get that deep, wet, carnauba-like glow with the durability and ease of application of a synthetic sealant.


It is a 1989 Ford Mustang so it is 24 years old. I don't know if its original paint or re-spray either. I have an entire bottle of nxt so I am going to try it first. If it doesn't look good, then I will definitely look into that blackfire.

At that point, I could go pre-wax cleaner -----> wolfgang finishing glaze, or maybe just another application of Megs#7 ----> new wax right?

AC in OC Thanks for the reminder about the samples! I would have totally forgotten.

I'm going to post up my cart in a little bit, would like to see what you guys think.

[fst89lx]

Here is what I have in the cart so far.
6pk green super soft deluxe microfiber towels (already have 6 blue ones)
Optimum no rinse 32oz
Optimum car wash concentrate 32oz
Nanoskin Autoscrub speedy prep sponge fine
Wolfgang total swirl remover 3.0 8oz
Wolfgang finish glaze 3.0 8oz
Stoner tarminator
Meguiars d103 apc
303 aerospace protectant 16oz spray bottle
Griots Garage 6" ROP
(2) 6pk Lake Country 5.5" FLAT pads (2orange,2blue,4white,4black)
Lake Country 5" flexible DA backing plate
(2)grit guard
Sample of liquid souveran wax

Anything I should Add? I already have a wash mitt, drying microfibers, nxt2.0 wax, 1 1/2 bottles of #7 show car glaze, and some clay and lube.

The 8oz wolfgang products should last for 2-3 vehicles shouldn't they?

[fst89lx]

I made the order just now. Got everything posted above excpet swapped out onr for onrww and only got one grit guard. Can't wait to get started!

[tuscarora dave]

Why use a pure glaze "before" polishing ???

:bash: :poke: