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kevinmcc
08-19-2013, 10:53 PM
Should I be afraid to get my car detailed? I need paint correction (swirls and holograms in the paint in direct sunlight).

I am afraid of the buffer burning through the Clear Coat or making it too thin..

Will I be fine? I do not know the previous detail history of the car and it is a 2009 Black Civic Si.

I see a lot of horror stories of clear coat failure and soft paint on my car is why I am concerned. I dont want to make it worse.

Pureshine
08-19-2013, 11:17 PM
Where do you live? Some one on the forum could help or do you want to learn how to do it your self?

af90
08-19-2013, 11:26 PM
Where do you live? Some one on the forum could help or do you want to learn how to do it your self?
If you're near Vegas I'll gladly help you out.

kevinmcc
08-19-2013, 11:32 PM
Oh, I forgot to mention that. I have someone already. (a professional)

The work he does is amazing! (https://www.facebook.com/AutoDetailingbyEvan)

Reason for concern isnt because of the detailer its just the fear of the soft paint on my civic (the members of 8thcivic.com got me scared!)

I just got the car a couple months ago and have dont want anything to happen to it! haha

beamerstrumpet
08-19-2013, 11:42 PM
Have him do a clear coat measurement if he has the tool to do it. This will tell you what you have on the car to work with.

kevinmcc
08-19-2013, 11:44 PM
Have him do a clear coat measurement if he has the tool to do it. This will tell you what you have on the car to work with.

I had the dealer do that with my hood, it has some crowsfeet showing in it =[

Oh nice! A clear coat measurement would def put my mind at ease! Thats a good idea!

Thanks man!

Evan.J
08-19-2013, 11:59 PM
Kevin here is an is something on hard and soft paint for you from Dave and mike



Determining whether a car has hard or soft clear coat can be a little tricky until one has worked on clears at both ends of the spectrum.

In your test section as you begin a paint correction job and you're testing from the least aggressive machines, pads and products up to the more aggressive machines, pads and products to determine what the minimum required levels of aggressiveness will be to get the job done, you begin to get a feel for the attributes of certain clear coats.

In testing, some cars require a less aggressive choice of pad and product on a DA polisher. Another car might need a more aggressive compound to remove the defects with a DA polisher, and then some cars have high solids clear coats that are so hard that a DA polisher is simply not the machine to use if time is a factor. In this case a rotary polisher with a wool pad may be a better place to begin. If time is really a factor, (and you have the experience) machine sanding with 3000 grit or even 2500 grit to remove the surface defects on really hard clear coats might be the way to go. Of course followed by whatever a test section reveals will be necessary to remove the sanding marks and bring up the gloss.

When you work on a BMW with Jet Black paint which is typically pretty soft clear, then go to working on a Mercedes Benz with PPG Deltron Ceramiclear clearcoat which is super hard, you're working pretty much at opposite ends of the spectrum of softness vs. hardness.

In my experience, most later model Toyota's with clearcoat fall about right in between the two. It's not super hard, but it's far from really soft clear and if the defects are more than moderate, I usually find that a heavier compound such as M-105 is needed first to level out the defects, then a finer polish should be used to bring up the gloss and remove any marring left behind by the heavier compound.

The more you do this kind of work and the more cars you get under your belt, the better you get at determining whether a clear is hard or soft.

Hope that helps a little. TD




Exactly.

A person can't really make a judgment as to whether a paint system is hard or soft until they've buffed out a few cars at both extremes of the spectrum so they have experience to draw from. I actually explain that in my how to book because this topic comes up so often.

For a Toyota, you say you need to do a total restoration, that means at a minimum you'll need a medium cut compound to remove the swirls, possibly a compound.


Polish manufactures don't label their products in easy ways for the average person to know what the product is, that's where the forum comes in handy.


What products, tools and pads do you have if any?



:)

That's why a test spot is very very important ever paint is different on ever car. You can have the two same cars year make and model but they can react totally different.

Ok work at 6am thank bucs for keeping me up

Ill get a hold of you tomorrow kevin

AutowerxDetailing
08-20-2013, 12:21 AM
You are having your detail done by an AutoGeek. Consider yourself lucky my friend! :props:

hernandez.art13
08-20-2013, 02:30 AM
you are having your detail done by an autogeek. Consider yourself lucky my friend! :props:

+1

Vegas Transplant
08-21-2013, 01:59 AM
Oh, I forgot to mention that. I have someone already. (a professional)

The work he does is amazing! (https://www.facebook.com/AutoDetailingbyEvan)

Reason for concern isnt because of the detailer its just the fear of the soft paint on my civic (the members of 8thcivic.com got me scared!)

I just got the car a couple months ago and have dont want anything to happen to it! haha


You are having your detail done by an AutoGeek. Consider yourself lucky my friend! :props:

Another +1.

Dude got skillz :props:

Mike Phillips
08-21-2013, 06:23 AM
Reason for concern isnt because of the detailer its just the fear of the soft paint on my civic (the members of 8thcivic.com got me scared!)




Using AutogeekOnline to find a qualified detailer is better than using something like Angie's List because this forum is open and this keeps everyone honest.

Evan is completely qualified to diagnose you car's paint and then take care of the detail work.

One thing I would inject into this conversation is that Evan can't really changer your car's paint. IF the paint is on the soft side, which is normal for these brand cars, there's nothing a skilled detailer can do to change that.

After he works on your car you will still have to be careful in how you "touch" it. Touch it means how you wash it and how you wipe, basically anytime anything touches the paint.

I point this out because I met a man once who hired a detailer to remove the swirls out of his black Corvette. After the detailer removed the swirls the guy shows me his Corvette about a month later because the paint was filled with swirls again.

The guy asks me if he was within his rights to ask the detailer for his money back?

I asked him,


How do you wash the car?

He replied,

I take it to a 100% Hand Car Wash


I then told him no.


The only way to prevent swirls in a clear coat finish is to either take ownership of the car washing process and learn to do it well and learn to do it carefully or hire someone qualified to do it for you.


Just because a car wash company has a sign out front that says,

100% Hand Car Wash

Doesn't mean squat. The people washing these cars have no special qualifications that mean they're going to be careful with our car. See my article here,

The reality of the 100% Hand Car Wash (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/40122-reality-100-hand-car-wash.html)



One of the things I teach detailers in my detailing boot camp classes is to first evaluate the customer and then evaluate the car. Make sure your customer has realistic expectations. The guy that owned the black Corvette thought that since he paid a detailer a lot of money to remove th swirls out of the paint that somehow moving into the future the paint would now be magically transformed and never get swirls again.

This guy had unrealistic expectations.


:)

JSou
08-21-2013, 09:33 AM
Will vouch for my friend Evan. You're in great hands Kevin. Don't be afraid, if anything it'll come out better than the condition it's in now.

Dr_Pain
08-21-2013, 10:42 AM
You are having your detail done by an AutoGeek. Consider yourself lucky my friend! :props:

Nothing more to add! :props:

kevinmcc
08-21-2013, 11:07 AM
Awesome, thanks for all the support! Taking my car Sunday for Evan to look over the car, and get a quote!! Wish me and my car luck!!!

I def have some questions in regards to washing. Like what is the best way to prevent swirls and scratches.

Currently I was my car every weekend, I use these products.

Microtex Platinum XL Memory Foam Faux Wool Mitt: Automotive : Walmart.com (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Microtex-Platinum-XL-Memory-Foam-Faux-Wool-Mitt/23554998)

With two seperate buckets, one for soap, one for rinse.

Soap I use

Meguiars Gold Class Car Wash Shampoo and Conditioner - Walmart.com (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Meguiar-s-Gold-Class-Car-Wash-Shampoo-and-Conditioner/16550261)

Or

Buy Turtlewax Zip Wax Car Wash and Wax (64 fl. oz.) T79 at Advance Auto Parts (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_zip-wax-car-wash-and-wax-(64-fl-oz-)-turtlewax_7041098-p?searchTerm=car+shampoo)


When I dry I use these products.

Clean Tools 51149 27-In. X 17-In. Emgee The Absorber Chamois: Automotive : Walmart.com (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Clean-Tools-51149-Ncs-27-in-X-17-in-Emgee-The-Absorber-Chamois/23014941)

and finish with

Zwipes Microfiber Cleaning Cloths: Automotive : Walmart.com (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Zwipes-Microfiber-36-Pack-of-Cleaning-Cloths/20564450)

Lastly I use

Ice Premium Care Spray Wax, 20 oz: Automotive : Walmart.com (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Ice-Premium-Care-Spray-Wax-20-oz/19864195)

with a foam applicator pad and the microfiber towels listed above. (Use foam applicator for when I use the non-spray form of this same wax)


Should I change my methods?

Note: I do not push hard on the mit or while drying and also use seperate buckets and mits for the wheels!

Mastercraft241
08-21-2013, 11:12 AM
Awesome, thanks for all the support! Taking my car Sunday for Evan to look over the car, and get a quote!! Wish me and my car luck!!!

I def have some questions in regards to washing. Like what is the best way to prevent swirls and scratches.

Currently I was my car every weekend, I use these products.

Microtex Platinum XL Memory Foam Faux Wool Mitt: Automotive : Walmart.com (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Microtex-Platinum-XL-Memory-Foam-Faux-Wool-Mitt/23554998)

With two seperate buckets, one for soap, one for rinse.

Soap I use

Meguiars Gold Class Car Wash Shampoo and Conditioner - Walmart.com (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Meguiar-s-Gold-Class-Car-Wash-Shampoo-and-Conditioner/16550261)

Or

Buy Turtlewax Zip Wax Car Wash and Wax (64 fl. oz.) T79 at Advance Auto Parts (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_zip-wax-car-wash-and-wax-(64-fl-oz-)-turtlewax_7041098-p?searchTerm=car+shampoo)


When I dry I use these products.

Clean Tools 51149 27-In. X 17-In. Emgee The Absorber Chamois: Automotive : Walmart.com (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Clean-Tools-51149-Ncs-27-in-X-17-in-Emgee-The-Absorber-Chamois/23014941)

and finish with

Zwipes Microfiber Cleaning Cloths: Automotive : Walmart.com (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Zwipes-Microfiber-36-Pack-of-Cleaning-Cloths/20564450)

Lastly I use

Ice Premium Care Spray Wax, 20 oz: Automotive : Walmart.com (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Ice-Premium-Care-Spray-Wax-20-oz/19864195)

with a foam applicator pad and the microfiber towels listed above. (Use foam applicator for when I use the non-spray form of this same wax)


Should I change my methods?

Note: I do not push hard on the mit or while drying and also use seperate buckets and mits for the wheels!
Save yourself the headache with the chamois and just buy an electric blower for $40. That will scratch your finish very easily. Take a read throughout autogeeks how to article on how to wash.