Is this bad?

[agarabaghi]

So I didn't get the Phase 5 compound in the mail today, looks like another company messed up my order.

I wanted to:

Wash - Clay/Nano - Compound - Polish - Glaze - Seal - Wax

How bad is it to skip compound and move on to Polish and the rest?

My paint is in pretty good condition...

[Setec Astronomy]

If your paint is in pretty good condition I'm not sure why you wanted to compound it in the first place. Not that I know what Phase 5 is, anyway.

[agarabaghi]

Chemical Guys GAP_266_16 - Phase 5 Polish Dual Action Compound & Polish

[Setec Astronomy]

Oh, Chemical Guys...if you don't want to "compound" this time just wait until next month there will be a new one with an even longer name.

[Evan.J]

If your paint is in pretty good condition I'm not sure why you wanted to compound it in the first place. Not that I know what Phase 5 is, anyway.

:iagree:

You should always take the least aggressive method to get the job done.

Test spot should be key! http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/50162-how-do-test-spot.html


"Use the least aggressive product to get the job done" (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/28505-use-least-aggressive-product-get-job-done.html)


I'm a strong advocate of giving due credit where credit is due for both professional and personal reasons. To this point I want to give credit to Meguiar's for this quote and philosophy, or approach towards working on automotive paints. I learned this philosophy from Meguiar's when I went to work for them in 1988 as an Outside Sales Rep and Trainer for Oregon, Washington and Idaho.

I know they've been teaching this practice probably from their inception in 1901, that's over one hundred years. I don't want to claim anyone else's work and/or words as my own and it's my eternal hope that others will reciprocate this basic and professional code of conduct.

Now that I've given credit where credit is due, I would like to state that while I learned this philosophy or approach to working on paint from Meguiar's, I've never seen anything else ever written on this topic either on paper or on the Internet explaining the idea behind the philosophy.

So let me share,
What it means
Why it's important
How to put this approach into practice


"Use the least aggressive product to get the job done"

The reasoning and logic behind this statement and approach towards working on car paint is for two reasons.

Reason 1 - Automotive paints are thin
Factory applied paint whether it came on a Model T or a brand new Ford Mustang is thin, very thin, thinner than most of us prefer. It's thin because it cost more to apply more paint in the way of materials, (the paint itself), and also time, as in the time it takes to spray the paint and allow flash time in-between each coating.

Time is money, so on an assembly line, or even in a body shop, more time means more money, for theses two reasons, cost of materials and time, paint is on a new car or paint from a body shop is thin.


Reason 2 - Removing below surface defects means removing a little paint
Below Surface Paint Defects are things like swirls, scratches, and etching like Type II Water Spots. Because these types of defects are below the surface level, that means they are "in" the paint, the only way to remove them is to abrade and remove a little of the surrounding paint until you level the upper most surface of the paint job until it's level with the lowest depths of the defects you're trying to remove.
In simple words... removing swirls, scratches and etching means removing a measured amount of paint.


Now let me tie the two concepts above together... follow me on this...

Paint is thin, removing defects means removing paint, there's not a lot of paint available to remove.

Starting to see the problem?


The top coat of paint on your car, no matter what type of paint system you have, (basecoat/clearcoat or single stage), is thin so you must keep this in mind anytime you're working on it or you let someone else work on it.


"Use the least aggressive product to get the job done"

Here's the "why" part…
The reason why you want to use the least aggressive product to get the job done is so that you'll leave the most amount of paint on the car to last over the service life of the car.


Make sense?

If you want to get deeper... this means that in order to use the least aggressive product to get the job done... you need to have more than one product in your arsenal of detailing supplies or how can you do any testing?

If you're a detailer, or a car owner that likes to take care of your own personal cars, then you need to have more than one paint correction product in your arsenal of detailing supplies.


Tool Time
Products are like tools, they enable you to perform a specific procedure or task that you couldn't do otherwise . Just like a screwdriver enables you to either remove or install a screw, a quality compound or polish enables you to remove defects and restore a show car finish.

You need some tools in your tool box!
If you haven't already, consider adding a few tools to your tool box so anytime you're working on a car's finish you'll already have the tools you need to do some testing and then tackle the job.

A well rounded inventory would include,


Aggressive Compound for serious paint defects
Medium Cut Polish
Light Cut Polish
Finishing Polish
Hand applied paint cleaner
Cleaner/Wax
Non abrasive glaze or pure polish


Where the rubber meets the road...
Putting the philosophy into practice means anytime you're going to work on your car or a customer's car, instead of diving right in head first with your most aggressive product, first test to see if something less aggressive will get the job done.

You see, paint systems are different, some paint systems are more polishable or workable than others but you'll never know until you do some testing.

I always tell my son this because it's true...

"You don't know what you can do until you try"

In the context of detailing, this means you don't know if you can remove the swirls with a light polish and a soft polishing pad until you try.

Sure you can remove them with an aggressive compound and cutting pad but if you're goal is to preserve your car's precious, thin coat of beauty, then start each project by doing some testing and try to find the least aggressive product in your detailing arsenal that will enable you to get the job done...


:)

[agarabaghi]

Sweet! back to the garage I go!!! BTW I love my nanoskin now

[Setec Astronomy]

That phase 5 is an AIO, anyway, you don't want to use that under your polish and other steps.

From what I can see on their website, it's intended for boats, RV's, and Volkswagen Beetles.

[agarabaghi]

Hmm missed that... Maybe I was thinking I would use that on my boat (ha ha)...

Well here are my steps ... could you let me know if I am layering them wrong?

Wash - Maguiars Gold Class
Clay / Nano - Speedy Prep Towel Fine
Polish - CG Nano n3
Glaze - CG Black Light Radiant Finish
Seal - CG Hyper V7
Wax - CG Butter Wet Wax

[Setec Astronomy]

Where is the CG Hyper Nano Ultra Micro Super Finishing Medium Compound in that process?

Don't ask me, I don't know nothing about CG.

[agarabaghi]

lol, I like the name and I like your names ever better. But, I wasn't asking you, I was asking anyone =D