Carbon fiber hood

[Allmtrh22]

Is this beyond repair?
I have done about 15 passes of m105 on a test spot and its still not as shiny as the front of the hood where it seems to be fine.
I'm not really sure what happened to it.
It was in storage under a car cover for awhile.
Only thing I can think of is the deck that was over the car was washed and all the dirt, dust and chemicals landed on the hood and stayed there for a long time.

I'll try to get a pic of the test spot with m105 tomorrow.
http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab149/AznBlueBoy/image.jpg (http://s858.photobucket.com/user/AznBlueBoy/media/image.jpg.html)

[cartman57]

Poor quality carbon fiber hood?
Looks like the clear resin has separated from the carbon.
Is it still structurally sound?

[Mike Phillips]

You can fix that.

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2LostACarbonHood3CR.jpg


Here's the deal though, after you remove the oxidation, if you want to keep the polyester resin looking clear and shiny so you can see the pretty "carbon fiber weave", then you need to,

"Find a product you like and use it often"

That is, regularly maintain the carbon fiber hood.


Here's why...

There are two general categories of carbon fiber components


Clear Coated - That means the part cost more because after the part was made they sprayed a couple of coats of automotive clear coat paint over the surface.


Straight Resin - This means all you have is the polyester resin that was used to build the part and embedded the carbon fiber weave material into it.


Here's the practical difference, kind of like the same idea in my article I'll include below,


A carbon fiber part, like a hood or wing, that is straight polyester or epoxy resin will oxidize readily. You can see this by the white chalky appearance of your hood.


A clear coated carbon fiber part will tend to get swirls like a clear coated car and will tend to NOT oxidize easily unless completely left unattended.



So once you compound the heck out of the hood, and then polish it to a clear, high gloss, find a polish and wax combination that you like, that means you like the way it applies, wipes off and looks when you're done, and use it regularly. Otherwise it will return to the chalky look the hood has now.

Also, don't compound more than you have to and after you restore the finish keep it up because you cannot continually compound and compound and compound these types of parts or your remove so much resin that you'll expose the actual fibers and then you'll have a mess on your hands.


See this article, (same principals apply)

The practical differences between single stage paints and a clear coat paints (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/21924-practical-differences-between-single-stage-paints-clear-coat-paints.html)



And this article,


"Find something you like and use it often" (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/24310-find-something-you-like-use-often.html)



I've restored a lot of hoods that look like yours. Please post the after pictures. I'll probably download your Photobucket pictures and place them into your free gallery here so they don't disappear over time or turn into red x's.


:Picture:

[Mike Phillips]

Here's your hood in your AGO Gallery here,

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/Bad_Carbon_Fiber_Hood.jpg



And the places I've placed a yellow circle around look like either separation of the lamination, some type of impact damage, or exposed fibers?

Maybe you can give more details? Regardless, these areas won't buff-out to look original.



http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/Bad_Carbon_Fiber_Hoodm.JPG



Buffing it out will make it look better, kind of like what I talk about here,



"Taking your car's paint to it's maximum potential" (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/27081-taking-your-car-s-paint-s-maximum-potential.html)


:)

[Allmtrh22]

Thank you for the awesome reply mike.
I believe it is a higher quality hood. It's made by seibon and not a no name eBay hood.
How many passes do you think is safe? Considering most videos show 6 passes max, I did way more then that and still isn't that shiny yet.

I am planning on doing m105/205 then seal with power lock and collinite 845 on top.

The parts you circled have cracks. There are cracks on the entire front part of the hood.

[Mike Phillips]

How many passes do you think is safe? Considering most videos show 6 passes max, I did way more then that and still isn't that shiny yet.



What type of tool and pad are you using?



You need to be using a wool pad on a rotary buffer. If you're using a DA polisher it might take a long time to chop through all that oxidation.

Basically, you're working on the same type of thing as if you were working on an oxidized gel-coat boat.

If you read any threads with people asking, how to tackle an oxidized boat you'll see the same answer posted by pretty much everyone, and that is,


You need a rotary buffer, wool pad and an aggressive compound


Do you have access to a rotary buffer?


You need to do some chopping...


:)

[Allmtrh22]

I only have a 7424 and using a hydrotech cyan pad.
is the M105 aggressive enough?
No access to a rotary right now.

[ken tuep]

105 should be, but the PC isn't going to give the results you seek, unless you have days to work on it.

Have you tried any clay? That may help a bit.

If I were you, I'd try a small test spot with 2000 grit sandpaper, then 3000 on a da to see if you would be able to polish it up a bit better.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using AG Online

[Allmtrh22]

105 should be, but the PC isn't going to give the results you seek, unless you have days to work on it.

Have you tried any clay? That may help a bit.

If I were you, I'd try a small test spot with 2000 grit sandpaper, then 3000 on a da to see if you would be able to polish it up a bit better.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using AG Online

The car sits there year round now.
I did clay before compounding the small spot I did.
http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab149/AznBlueBoy/DSC015731.jpg
http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab149/AznBlueBoy/DSC015721.jpg
http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab149/AznBlueBoy/DSC015711.jpg

[ken tuep]

So either a rotary and wool, or possibly the wet sanding will help.

You might just take it to a detailer in the area with a rotary and let them do it. Then finish it out yourself.

Or purchase a rotary locally and wool pad, then get it.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using AG Online

[Mike Phillips]

I only have a 7424 and using a hydrotech cyan pad.
is the M105 aggressive enough?
No access to a rotary right now.


M105 is aggressive enough but the tool isn't. The pad isn't either.

Sure you can do it with the above but it's just going to take longer AND only work a small section at at time, like 16" by 16", the size of a micrrofiber towel.


Another option would be to get a couple of the new THIN Purple Foamed Wool pads, the FIBERS of a fiber pad increase the aggressiveness of any abrading action and will chop the oxidation off faster than a foam pad.


http://www.marine31online.com/gallery/data/518/2007_Key_Largo_Boat_Detailing_Class_009.jpg



Thin PFW's (http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-thin-foamed-wool-pads.html)


:)

[FUNX650]

Just curious...

Have you done any polishing on the non-CF body panels?
Were they as oxidized as the CF-hood?

Thanks.

:)

Bob

[Allmtrh22]

Just curious...

Have you done any polishing on the non-CF body panels?
Were they as oxidized as the CF-hood?

Thanks.

:)

Bob

No polishing has been done on anything else.
The rest of the paint is in decent shape with the exception of the cracks on the body kit from being too low and some paint splatter on the side skirts.
I am probably going to repaint most of the car with a new body kit that's not so riced out.

[Allmtrh22]

M105 is aggressive enough but the tool isn't. The pad isn't either.

Sure you can do it with the above but it's just going to take longer AND only work a small section at at time, like 16" by 16", the size of a micrrofiber towel.


Another option would be to get a couple of the new THIN Purple Foamed Wool pads, the FIBERS of a fiber pad increase the aggressiveness of any abrading action and will chop the oxidation off faster than a foam pad.


http://www.marine31online.com/gallery/data/518/2007_Key_Largo_Boat_Detailing_Class_009.jpg



Thin PFW's (http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-thin-foamed-wool-pads.html)


:)

I would love to try these but don't have anything else to order with it.
Maybe if I got free shipping for just a pair of these would be sweet!

[Kaiser37]

How does a surbuf pad on a DA compare to these products?