What Menzerna polish has more cut than WG TSR 3.0?

[otruba_843]

I was using Wolfgang total swirl remover on my car with an orange light cutting pad and it wasn't cutting enough. What Menzerna polish has more cut than TSR? I was thinking either SI1500 or FG400 although I have heard that SI1500 and WG TSR are pretty much the same thing. I have these big areas where water pooled on my trunk lid and etched big water pools into the CC. TSR on speed 6 on my PC with the orange pad wouldn't remove them and they are really frustrating me. In the picture below, you can see the outline of part of the pool.

http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/j426/Jamison1996/73d2d708-51aa-4a58-9897-4c8825dfbf83.jpg

[Dr_Pain]

I love the FG400 on a Meg MF pad with my Rupes 21. It is truly a scratch and swirl killer.

[XSSIVE]

FG400 is Menzerna's most aggressive compound. It works wonders when paired with a microfiber pad. Also finishes out amazingly well for something with so much cut.

[otruba_843]

I love the FG400 on a Meg MF pad with my Rupes 21. It is truly a scratch and swirl killer.

What backing plate do I need for my PC to use the Megs MF pads? I think I remember someone saying you need a special one. It looks like FG400 it is. You don't think its too agressive to use once? Will it take out those pools etched into the CC?

[Dr_Pain]

What backing plate do I need for my PC to use the Megs MF pads? I think I remember someone saying you need a special one. It looks like FG400 it is. You don't think its too agressive to use once? Will it take out those pools etched into the CC?

I have a GG6 and the Rupes 21 and I use the 5" backing plate on both when using the MF, because those suckers GRIP and you will stop rotation. Lake country is the one I use for the GG6 and use the Rupe 15 on the Rupes 21.

When doing your test spot, go a few passes and check (2-3) and then go at it again and check, until you have your combo dialed in (pads, speed, product, pressure, passes). I normally am able to get away with 4 passes with medium pressure and get 90+% correction on soft"ish" paint and 6 passes for harder paint in a 2x2 on slow arm speed. I haven't used it on a very soft paint yet but it does not look as though you will be dealing with the most softest paint (considering your experience with TSR 3.0)

[Dr_Pain]

The safe power of Menzerna. It is aggressive, but take your time and check often and don't overwork the area. You may work on feathering the lips over just indiscriminately removing material throughout.

This is etched Class II and Class III water marks in addition to years of neglected oxidation on a BMW 335i. I used about 6-8 passes to accomplish 85% results. Left the worst offender alone. This paint was rather hard.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/16917_484608891601490_542880644_n.jpg

[otruba_843]

The safe power of Menzerna. It is aggressive, but take your time and check often and don't overwork the area. You may work on feathering the lips over just indiscriminately removing material throughout.

This is etched Class II and Class III water marks in addition to years of neglected oxidation on a BMW 335i. I used about 6-8 passes to accomplish 85% results. Left the worst offender alone. This paint was rather hard.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/16917_484608891601490_542880644_n.jpg

Do you have any experience with Monaco Blue Metallic clear coat? I saw once that someone says its rather soft, but it's seems pretty dang hard to me.

[Dr_Pain]

Do you have any experience with Monaco Blue Metallic clear coat? I saw once that someone says its rather soft, but it's seems pretty dang hard to me.

I've done quite a few BMW (only a few you can see on my web page) and i have to tell you that in general german clears are pretty hard, but true to form you find one, once in a while, that is soft as a babie's behind. This is the ,aim reason why a test spot is so important. Start with the least aggressive and move up till you have it dialed in just right then polish away!!:buffing: