Wet Sanding BMW

[hernandez.art13]

I could not find my last thread but the BMW is getting the full paint Detail. Orange peel sanded Off from repaint . This is a quick phone shot but I used my canon rebel for better shots.

I am on lunch right,

Taped it and covered it
So far clayed the car,l
And now currently wet and damp sanding

1,000-3000 the front end got repainted.

http://i1079.photobucket.com/albums/w506/ScreamKingArt/C7B06308-8449-441A-9DB7-FB19C1CA49E8-2057-0000021985C38E43_zps20e01ac7.jpg

[goldendodo19]

Subscribed.

[hernandez.art13]

I have all the pictures taken on my canon. So can't upload them. But will...

Basically the PC is good for wet sanding but horrible for removing sanding marks. My Technique might be a strong factor. (Not good enough, idk) I damp sanded to 3000.

Tried 105 them switched to 3M compound instead with yellow pad.

The flat panels were easier to buff out, but the front has a lot of curves. Where the PC stopped rotating.

We decided we got 50% paint correction it looks great until you shine a light to it. Lol

(I jokingly said, just drive it at night time and nobody will know :D)

We have a rotary coming in tomorrow. (cousin) and I'll use my Rotary and fix the rest of the finer scratches.

(Triple Team)

We un-unwantingly achieved the mirror finish (zero orange peel) :D

8 hours of paint correction, I also clayed the entire vehicle.

Clay, wet sand, and compound

My estimator uncle (his car) helped me out too. So it was a 2 man job.

After correcting the sanding marks, I'll be removing the swirls of the rest of the car.

Then finally opti coat.

[Vegas Transplant]

What pads were you guys using with the da?
Good thread Art.
Putting myself in your shoes, I would have chosen the rotary first. But I understand your need to master the da at some point.

[hernandez.art13]

This was the most correction I was able to achieve with my PC using a yellow pad and 2 passes with 3M compound after 3000


http://i1079.photobucket.com/albums/w506/ScreamKingArt/7B3565A2-3B16-4DEA-8547-73C22892DBDD-2057-00000279EFB120F4_zpsc67527dc.jpg

^ Why?

I'm just go back to rotary after wet sanding lol

[hernandez.art13]

What pads were you guys using with the da?
Good thread Art.
Putting myself in your shoes, I would have chosen the rotary first. But I understand your need to master the da at some point.

I used the CCS pads (just used the yellow in this case) The pad felt aggressive enough, it was my PC that lacked the strength IMO, I ran it at 6 (full speed) with enough pressure as possible but still making sure it was spinning.

Plus the PC took a long, long time. (To long for my personal liking.)

The PC on the bumper did practically zero correction because of the edges and curves.

[Vegas Transplant]

I used the CCS pads (just used the yellow in this case) The pad felt aggressive enough, it was my PC that lacked the strength IMO, I ran it at 6 (full speed) with enough pressure as possible but still making sure it was spinning.

Plus the PC took a long, long time. (To long for my personal liking.)

The PC on the bumper did practically zero correction because of the edges and curves.

Maybe MF would have yielded better results on the flat panels.

That's the problem that I ran into when I first started with the DA. I don't do much wet sanding anymore due to the vehicles that I now work on.
Got to give you props for putting the DA into rotation. But there's a time and a place for certain tools. You have earned your wings with the rotary, kinda hard to put it on the work bench just to learn a lesson. I reach for the rotary in just about all cutting steps. Maybe if I had something more powerful than the PC the situation may be different.

[hernandez.art13]

What do you guys think of this? The car was repainted about 4 years ago. (It really was, By an unknown painter/process) Was this why I had trouble correcting the paint?

[david11g35]

Surbuf pads would be a good option. The pc is under powered to remove sanding marks with foam pads. Mf would get you better results but I think you best bet is surbuf.. followed by mf then finish with foam. I have had good results with the surbuf.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ruVUpab6AlY&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2

[Vegas Transplant]

Well, since you always seem to have your trusty paint gauge on hand, I see it as part of the process of trying something new. Either that, or you didn't quite remove your sanding marks with each step. You know more about paint than I ever will.

edit: Also just noticed that photo is after just two section passes of compounding.

[hernandez.art13]

Maybe MF would have yielded better results on the flat panels.

That's the problem that I ran into when I first started with the DA. I don't do much wet sanding anymore due to the vehicles that I now work on.
Got to give you props for putting the DA into rotation. But there's a time and a place for certain tools. You have earned your wings with the rotary, kinda hard to put it on the work bench just to learn a lesson. I reach for the rotary in just about all cutting steps. Maybe if I had something more powerful than the PC the situation may be different.

Thank you Vegas Transplant, I purposely left my Rotary at home, so I can "strictly" use the DA. For all the paint steps,

Clay> Sand > buff (far as I got) lol

Clay was nice using Auto Scrub
&
The sanding was nice but still prefer compressed air DA

Now the buffing was a not for my liking while using my PC.

I am wondering what would have been the case if I had a Flex 3401? (would my expectations be achievable or do I need A Rotary?)

In this type of case...

[Vegas Transplant]

david11g35 hit the nail on the head with his comment. I don't really see as many tracers as I thought would be present using the DA, but you did finish out with 3k. Maybe your process, pressure, amount of product used, pad cleaning/changing, section passes is not dialed in yet.

[hernandez.art13]

Surbuf pads would be a good option. The pc is under powered to remove sanding marks with foam pads. Mf would get you better results but I think you best bet is surbuf.. followed by mf then finish with foam. I have had good results with the surbuf.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ruVUpab6AlY&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2

This is what I was trying to accomplish using my Yellow foam pad,(have never used surbuf, seen this video numerous times) :D

I am thinking of just buying myself a 3" backing plate and dedicating my PC for Headlights.

My Rotary is messed up, works but not like it should.

I am thinking about the Flex 3401, then sometime in the future (if need be) I'll get a Flex Rotary.

Yes the PTG was able to read the readings off each grit sand paper (after) I used, even after compound passes (was very exciting :D)

[hernandez.art13]

Surbuf pads would be a good option. The pc is under powered to remove sanding marks with foam pads. Mf would get you better results but I think you best bet is surbuf.. followed by mf then finish with foam. I have had good results with the surbuf.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ruVUpab6AlY&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2

Oh..., and if all goes well we plan on attacking this tomorrow :D

[hernandez.art13]

david11g35 hit the nail on the head with his comment. I don't really see as many tracers as I thought would be present using the DA, but you did finish out with 3k. Maybe your process, pressure, amount of product used, pad cleaning/changing, section passes is not dialed in yet.

Yes I agree I think this has a strong factor of the results I achieved.

I am used to wool pad and rotary