Another Overspray Question Plus Intro

[alocker]

Hello all,
My name is Alex and I have been home detailing for years now mostly with Autogeek sourced products. I purchased a 1968 Impala last fall and have been working on the paint.

It's single stage Dupont Chroma Premier in Tuxedo Black (jet black). The paint is in great shape but I have found what I believe to be clear overspray all over the car. The previous owner owned a body shop so im not surprised. The pain has great depth and gloss but in certain light (ie dusk hours) you can really see it.

Anyways, I have used claybar (Meguires store bought gray stuff) and it helped smooth the paint, it did not remove any overspray. I also tried some solvents like lacquer thinner, brake cleaner, and WD-40 with no results.

I moved on to the PC DA using a combination of Lake country pads and Menzerna polishes. It is working but is extremely time consuming and I cannot seem to get rid of that last 5% of overspray. We are talking 2-3 hours for half the hood and it's still not where I would like it.

The question is what is the next step? I am looking at the Nanoskin Autoscrub. Is this a good next step? Should I go medium or fine? The car still needs a full polish so I plan on that after the overspray is removed. I really want to avoid wet sanding mainly because I have little experience with it and I am getting results with the DA.

Also, I need to order some polish. Any recommendations for single stage?

Thanks in advance for the help. I know there are a ton of overspray topics (I did search) but most are newer vehicles with 2 stage paint.

http://imageshack.us/a/img43/6482/20121117142556739.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img441/9854/20121117142514989.jpg

[hernandez.art13]

I am just chiming in to bump you up, I wonder if it imbedded in the CC. (Bad prep, or bad paint job, completely just wondering)

Since you say you already machined polished for 2-3 hours with just a bit of luck and you say it has been repainted.

Your car is beautiful, but close up pictures will help and I'll let others chime in.

Good Luck,
Art

[alocker]

Thank you Art for the comments on the car.

Just to clarify, the car was painted 5 years ago with single stage paint (no clear). I'm assuming the overspray is on the car from being around the paint shop. I am pretty sure its not in or under the paint. Here are some pic.

The first 2 are the area already treated, the last 2 are un-polishied. The little spots are the overspray. I know the untreated area does not look that much worse but there is considerably more overspray.

Polished Areas
http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/8266/j4r8.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img7/5946/zzhk.jpg



Unpolished areas
http://imageshack.us/a/img827/3717/nl76.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img818/9854/m8ru.jpg

[ken tuep]

I'm curious if using some heavy cut compound and microfiber pad would work quicker? I'd probably hit it with some 3000 grit sandpaper and then polish it back up.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using AG Online

[alocker]

Any other recommendations on either the Nanoskin pad or what compound would be best for this?

[Setec Astronomy]

I'm curious if using some heavy cut compound and microfiber pad would work quicker? I'd probably hit it with some 3000 grit sandpaper and then polish it back up.

How about the new 5000 grit 3M that they have here at AG?

I think we need to hear from Mike Phillips on this one.

[sproketser]

You happen to have some Menzerna products , which ones do you have , & what pads also , some will be able to give you a hand here fella .

[ken tuep]

I keep forgetting about that 5000 grit. It would probably work also.

That would also make polishing easier in the end IMO.

I'm a paint and body Guy by trade, so I wouldn't hesitate to put 3000 on a da and then compound and polish it back up.

I had used 3000 grit on my truck tailgate, and it polished easily with a gg polisher. I would suspect that 5000 could be pulled out of most any paint with any polisher.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using AG Online

[ken tuep]

I would guess sanding would take an extra 2 hours Max. That's assuming the overspray is mostly on the horizontal surfaces.

But overspray doesn't discriminate!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using AG Online

[Mike Phillips]

First...

Lost of great suggestions already posted in this thread...

Second, thank you Mike aka Setec Astronomy for bringing this thread to my attention, this is a very busy forum and it's hard to stay up to date one each and every thread...







Thank you Art for the comments on the car.

Just to clarify, the car was painted 5 years ago with single stage paint (no clear). I'm assuming the overspray is on the car from being around the paint shop.




The most common place to get overspray paint on your car is at a body shop. Here's why,

The first reason is pretty simple and that's because body shops spray paint. Duh.

The second reason though most people don't think about and that is after your car is painted it is moved out of the paint booth and back into the shop somewhere to have a number of possible things done to it, this can include complex procedures like sanding and buffing, or more mundane things like bolting back on any components that might have been removed before the car was painted, for example a bumper, trim, emblem, etc.

While the car is sitting in the shop, because paint is being sprayed both inside the paint booth and sometimes outside the paint booth, there's always the chance of overspray paint in the air.

This overspray paint can and will drift around the shop and land on your freshly painted car.

So the most common place to get overspray paint is where paint is in the air and that's at a body shop.

Also, some shops are better than others at covering up and protecting parts of the car that are not getting painted than others. Recently I had a guy call me that had a 1966 Rivera pained a candy apple color and the shop didn't paint the door jambs while the car was in the booth.

So they had the owner bring the car back to the shop a few weeks later and the "squirted" the door jambs, that's painter's lingo for spraying or blowing paint.

What they didn't do is COVER THE CAR with plastic or paper and then he had overspray paint ALL OVER THE CAR, including the wheels, tires, glass, trim and body panels.

Ugh... :dunno:


So if you're getting a car painted, do your research and try to pick the best shop you can find and afford.






Any other recommendations on either the Nanoskin pad or what compound would be best for this?




Just by coincidence, we recently did an extreme makeover over to a VERY cool car. I document all of these projects. Not sure you can find any kind of documentation on projects like these on any other forum.


Check this out... from page 2 of this thread,



1963 Plymouth Fury Drag Race Car - Pictures & Video (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/pictures-autogeek-s-car-week/66166-1963-plymouth-fury-drag-race-car-pictures-video.html)




Removing Overspray Paint using Nanoskin Autoscrub Pads

This 1963 Plymouth Fury was recently repainted. As a by-product of the painting process, there was overspray all over the car. It was very easy to feel the overspray paint on the hood and the windshield but chances are very good the entire car has some level of overspray paint, including all the glass, all the paint, all the chrome and stainless steel trim and even the wheels and tires.


Interesting Factoid...
The most common place to get overspray paint on your car is while it's at a body shop for repairs or a complete paint job.

Tip...
Anytime you have your car re-painted, or even just a portion of the car repainted, while at the body shop, inspect the car for overspray and if discovered, point this out to the shop managers.
Nanosking Autoscrub Pads

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1590/Autoscrub015.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1590/Autoscrub016.jpg


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1590/Autoscrub017.jpg


This is a cropped out section from the above with no resizing...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1590/Autoscrub017c.jpg





Fine and Medium Grade Pads
The blue foam indicates the fine grade while the yellow foam indicates the medium grade Nanoskin Autoscrub Pads.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1590/Autoscrub014.jpg



Nanoskin Glide Instant Detailer and Spray Lubricant Concentrate

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1590/Autoscrub018.jpg



Time to get busy....
The Nanoskin Autoscrub pads are incredibly effective at removing above surface bonded contaminants like paint overspray and best of all you work by machine using dual action polishers, any dual action polisher.


Here's Tim using a Meguiar's G110v2 with a Medium Grade, (Yellow), Nanoskin Autoscrub Pad...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1897/1963_Plymouth_Fury_Drag_Racer_0171.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1897/1963_Plymouth_Fury_Drag_Racer_018.jpg




Here's Den using a Porter Cable 7424XP with a Medium Grade, (Yellow), Nanoskin Autoscrub Pad...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1897/1963_Plymouth_Fury_Drag_Racer_019.jpg


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1897/1963_Plymouth_Fury_Drag_Racer_020.jpg



Here's Greg using a Porter Cable 7424XP with a Nanoskin Autoscrub Medium Grade Pad....

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1897/1963_Plymouth_Fury_Drag_Racer_021.jpg



Here's Andy give some pointers literally.... :D

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1897/1963_Plymouth_Fury_Drag_Racer_022.jpg



Here's Nick using the Griot's Garage DA Polisher with a Nanoskin Autoscrub Medium Pad...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1897/1963_Plymouth_Fury_Drag_Racer_023.jpg




Here's Craig using the Cyclo Mark 5 Pro with two 4" Nanoskin Autoscrub Medium Grade Pads...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1897/1963_Plymouth_Fury_Drag_Racer_024.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1897/1963_Plymouth_Fury_Drag_Racer_025.jpg



Here's Bryan using the Meguiar's G110v2 with the Nanoskin Autoscrub Fine Grade Pad...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1897/1963_Plymouth_Fury_Drag_Racer_026.jpg



Tim is a machine with a machine! Way to go Tim!

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1897/1963_Plymouth_Fury_Drag_Racer_027.jpg



Here's Rob using the Griot's DA Polisher with the Nanoskin Autoscrub Medium Grade Pad...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1897/1963_Plymouth_Fury_Drag_Racer_028.jpg



As you can see, just by this first machine step the gloss is already starting to really amp up!

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1897/1963_Plymouth_Fury_Drag_Racer_029.jpg



If you read the text above, I shared that this car had recently had some body work done and as a result some panels resprayed and from the re-spray...

Clear Coat Overspray all over the car.


Of course... we removed the overspray and that's just one of the reasons the paint is now so glossy....

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1897/1963_Plymouth_Fury_Drag_Racer_009.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1897/1963_Plymouth_Fury_Drag_Racer_010.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1897/1963_Plymouth_Fury_Drag_Racer_011.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1897/1963_Plymouth_Fury_Drag_Racer_012.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1897/1963_Plymouth_Fury_Drag_Racer_013.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1897/1963_Plymouth_Fury_Drag_Racer_014.jpg




On Autogeek.net

Nanoskin Car Care Products (http://www.autogeek.net/nanoskin-car-care-products.html)









How about the new 5000 grit 3M that they have here at AG?

I think we need to hear from Mike Phillips on this one.

Thanks for the heads-up Mike...

#5000 grit is so fine trying to sand a catalyzed clear coat overspray off of the car's body panels would work but it would really chew up the sanding discs.






I'm a paint and body Guy by trade, so I wouldn't hesitate to put 3000 on a DA and then compound and polish it back up.



I'm with Ken on this...

IF I were going to sand it I would probably go with either the Meguiar's or the 3M #3000 sanding discs by machine. I'd use the 6" for the major panels and the 3" for the thin panels on a Griot's Peanut Polisher like you see being used in this article,


Griot's 3" Mini Polisher works great as a 3" Dampsander (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/wet-sanding-cutting-buffing/46341-griot-s-3-mini-polisher-works-great-3-dampsander.html)










I would guess sanding would take an extra 2 hours Max. That's assuming the overspray is mostly on the horizontal surfaces.



I agree for a guy that knows how to machine sand. Promotional plug inserted here,

I teach machine sanding at all my boot camp classes (http://www.autogeek.net/detailing-boot-camp.html).






But overspray doesn't discriminate!




Exactly.

Most contaminants only bond to horizontal surfaces because they are not "sticky".

Overspray paint and tree sap mist are two types of air-borne contaminants that are sticky and if blowing in the wind will stick ANYWHERE.

I've removed overspray paint off the steel dash INSIDE a truck as well as off wheels and tires...

Here's a post of mine from MOL in 2005... the guy that owns this Suburban recently found I moved to AGO and joined this forum...


Claying will often times reveal unwanted contaminants you never knew existed. Below is HotRodGuy's 1955 Hotrodded Suburban that we almost didn't clay before we polished out because we couldn't feel any contaminants on the finish.

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2ClayingtheSuburban-med.jpg

After claying we found red paint overspray on our clay that we removed from the wild clear coated purple with flames paint job.

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/2RedOverSprayonClay-med.jpg

In most cases, examining your car's finish with your sense of touch after washing will reveal above surface contaminants that you can feel with your fingertips, but not always.


:)

[Mike Phillips]

The question is what is the next step?

I am looking at the Nanoskin Autoscrub. Is this a good next step?

Should I go medium or fine?




Alex,

If it were me and my car, I would try the Medium Grade Autoscrub pads on a DA polisher like the Porter Cable 7424XP.

This worked for us on the 1963 Fury and if you take your time it should work on your beautiful Impala.

Here's a short video I made on my iPhone that shows how to use these pads on a PC


Video: How To use the Nanoskin Autoscrub Pads on a PC7424XP (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-car-garage-how-videos/57461-video-how-use-nanoskin-autoscrub-pads-pc7424xp.html)




Decontaminating the paint on a 1963 Ford Galaxie 390 XL

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1590/Autoscrub005.jpg


Here's some tips and techniques for using the Speedy Prep Surface Towel with a DA Polisher like the Porter Cable 7424XP.

Note you can use these decontamination pads on any dual action polisher but they are not for use with rotary buffers.




How To use the Nanoskin Autoscrub Pads on a PC7424XP

How To use the Nanoskin Autoscrub Pads on a...






http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1590/Autoscrub001.jpg



On Autogeek.net

Nanoskin Car Care Products (http://http/#37;3A//www.autogeek.net/nanoskin-car-care-products.html)

Porter Cable 7424XP Dual Action Polisher (http://www.autogeek.net/dual-action-polishers.html)








The car still needs a full polish so I plan on that after the overspray is removed. I really want to avoid wet sanding mainly because I have little experience with it and I am getting results with the DA.




It's always a good idea to use the least aggressive approach first. I always say,

Sanding is the easy part... that's putting scratches into the paint... the tricky part is getting them out...


If the Nanoskin option doesn't work you can still fall back on sanding, so I'd try the Nanoskin approach first.


:)

[alocker]

Now this is the kind of traction I was hoping this thread would get. Thank you for all of the replies so far.

Please understand my hesitancy to wet sanding. Not only have I sanded through clear back in the days when I worked in a bodyshop, there are a lot of intricate and sharp body lines on this car. Seeing that I have made some progress with polishing, I think wet sanding will be a very last resort. I also think I was overly cautious with the polishing method and because it was the materials available at the time. See below for that.


You happen to have some Menzerna products , which ones do you have , & what pads also , some will be able to give you a hand here fella . I used Super Finish and Power Finish. I have the Lake Country 3 pack (Orange, Blue, White). I dont recall which one was used but I know it was not the cutting pad. I used one of the finer pads.


I would guess sanding would take an extra 2 hours Max. That's assuming the overspray is mostly on the horizontal surfaces.

But overspray doesn't discriminate!

I'm pretty sure its everywhere. I can even feel it on the wheel trim rings. Nice thing about this car is if it's below the side trim molding, its not visible. Im not worried about anything under the molding.


Mike,
Thank you for chiming in. I really needed a recommendation for my specific application. I will follow up with results so I hope it works. If not, I will have my paint guy send you the bill;)

I have heard there might be a slight marring after the Nanoscrub. Can you recommend a polish to follow up. Also, what kind of wax do you recommend for single stage? Maximum gloss is desired and the car is not daily driven, so I'm willing to give up length of protection for gloss.

Thanks again to all!

[alocker]

I went ahead and purchased some products to attempt to bring back some shine to the Impala.

Per Mike recommendations, I went with the Nanoskin Pro Medium starter kit and the Pinnacle Swirl Remove Kit.

I had chance to test a 2x2 area and the results are nothing short of astounding.

First the Nanoskin to remove the overspray.

I mixed up some glide at 2oz per 15oz of water. I first did half the back window to remove the overspray and I heard it needs to be broken in on glass, so that's what I did. The glass is 45 year old original so visually there was not much improvement, but the plastic bag test reveals it smoothed it considerably.

On to the decklid. I liberally applied glide and worked a 2x2 area making two vertical passes (there and back) and two horizontal passes. I was at around a 3 setting on the DA. I was a little concerned at first because there was considerable marring. It was particularly heavy on the edge where the decklid meets the quarter. I did a quick baggie test and it felt really smooth so I decided to go right into the swirl remover on the cutting pad supplied in the kit.

I did 2 rounds of the same 2 passes horizontal and 2 passes vertical. This is the most obvious improvement as it removed all the marring. I was able to exhale at the point. Then inspection revealed the overspray is gone. 1 minute of Nanoskin was more effective than 1 hour of polishing.

Went on to 1 one round of the polish to confirm what I was seeing. This $H!% works! I am very happy with the final result. I think I can get it a touch better by working the polish a little longer. Besides that, I am preparing to do the whole car.

Just a plug to the Pinnacle swirl remover kit. I really like how the kit is laid out. The core of the kit is 3 products for 3 pads. It really takes the guess work out of it.

[ken tuep]

I'm glad that is working for you. I also have the nanoskin scrubber in light. It wasn't able to remove some overspray on a project car I bought.
You might need to break in the nanoskin more by doing all the glass on the car. Mine left very light marring the first time I used it, but hasn't since. I also use it on the windows first before the paint on every vehicle I do.

Seems like I might need to buy a medium as well.

Get us some pics when its all cleaned up.
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[sproketser]

Glad it s working out mate . Lots of help in here .