Noob looking for some advice

[queens guy]

Hello all Noob here in forum. I have a 2011 Nissan Murano (wife's daily driver) and I did a quick detail yesterday. I managed to get a pretty "decent" look to my car without the polisher. I have ordered thePorter Cable 7424 XP, Meguiar's 105/205 and a sealant. I also have the basics, of buckets, micro towels, clay bar kits etc.

Questions:

can I use all purpose cleaner on under the hood? I was thinking just spray and wipe?I have built up a film of dirt all over and want to clean it out without using water hose etc.

I am attaching some pics of how my engine etc looks and also some after pics of the detailing i did by hand. I washed it, clay bar, washed again, spray wax.

Looking at my paint I don't think I will need to use the 105 (ultra cut compound ) yet as the paint looks and feels pretty good. I do have a few scratches, chips that I will fix and wet sand the car.

If I follow this wash-wet sand-compound-protect-seal , next few car washed should i just wash and seal? depending if the paint stays in good condition?


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[wdmaccord]

I wouldn't wet sand, especially if you are new to detailing. I've thought about filling and wet sanding some chips myself, but I think it's just too risky. Especially since I don't have a paint gauge, so I don't know how think the paint is.

If you fill a chip with touch-up paint in very light layers to build it up, I have found that a decent cutting compound will actually level it out a little bit...not perfectly, but it helps.

My 2 cents.

[Robert8194]

Spray and wipe might work if the engine is completely cold. If warm, my experience has been that the APC dries before you can wipe it off. I normally use steam with my all purpose cleaner but have covered delicate electrical components and used a light mist from the hose.

[hernandez.art13]

Check this out Queens Guy

http://youtu.be/Jlhvgtp_6vk

[Evan.J]

It doesn't get any better than this write up that Nick did:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/50352-how-detail-your-engine-like-professional.html

You just need to be very careful when it comes to the electrical components that are are under the hood that are outlined in this article. Getting them wet can cause damage and money.

As for the touch up spots can you post a photo of them?

When wet sanding touch up spots not only are you doing those spots but you are also wet sanding the surrounding paint along with the touch up paint. When wet sanding you need to keep in mind that factory clear is very very thin and very easy to strike through thats why its always important to have a paint thickness gauge as a guide to help you.

In most cases the thickness of a factory baked on clear is no thicker than one piece of sticky note paper. Thats not much to work with, so keep that in mind.

Can you live with the spots is a question you should ask yourself before starting.

Another one might be can you afford to pay for a repaint should you happen to sand too much and strike through the clear?

Are you able to get the proper tools to pull out the sanding marks? (i.e. rotary and a wool pad. If using a higher grit like 3000 or 5000 a DA Microfiber correction system)

These are just some of the things that can happen and things you will need should you decide to go that route just giving you some idea.

[hernandez.art13]

It doesn't get any better than this write up that Nick did:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/50352-how-detail-your-engine-like-professional.html

You just need to be very careful when it comes to the electrical components that are are under the hood that are outlined in this article. Getting them wet can cause damage and money.

As for the touch up spots can you post a photo of them?

When wet sanding touch up spots not only are you doing those spots but you are also wet sanding the surrounding paint along with the touch up paint. When wet sanding you need to keep in mind that factory clear is very very thin and very easy to strike through thats why its always important to have a paint thickness gauge as a guide to help you.

In most cases the thickness of a factory baked on clear is no thicker than one piece of sticky note paper. Thats not much to work with, so keep that in mind.

Can you live with the spots is a question you should ask yourself before starting.

Another one might be can you afford to pay for a repaint should you happen to sand too much and strike through the clear?

Are you able to get the proper tools to pull out the sanding marks? (i.e. rotary and a wool pad. If using a higher grit like 3000 or 5000 a DA Microfiber correction system)

These are just some of the things that can happen and things you will need should you decide to go that route just giving you some idea.

These are night and day methods compared to The Chemical Guys method (Engine Cleaning)

Covering up electrical components and light stream are what really stood out to me.

Thank You Evan J for posting that link.

[queens guy]

I wouldn't wet sand, especially if you are new to detailing. I've thought about filling and wet sanding some chips myself, but I think it's just too risky. Especially since I don't have a paint gauge, so I don't know how think the paint is.

If you fill a chip with touch-up paint in very light layers to build it up, I have found that a decent cutting compound will actually level it out a little bit...not perfectly, but it helps.

My 2 cents. Thanks.. I actually already wet sanded some light scratches I had and manually buffed them out and it came out great. I just did not have time to finish the job.

[queens guy]

Saw those linked videos before.. I am just not crazy enough about using water near the engine. Just going to spray and wipe as much as I can.

[queens guy]

here is a spot that I will correct. Looks worse than it is. I do have 2000 wet paper and I am waiting for my PA Rotary and M105 and M205 to come in next week.

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[BillE]

Saw those linked videos before.. I am just not crazy enough about using water near the engine. Just going to spray and wipe as much as I can.

Most of the newer vehicles are really well sealed (compared to those 'back in the day'), just don't go crazy with a heavy/strong stream of water. Gently flowing the water over the 'washed' area will do a good job of rinsing.

Bill

[queens guy]

I need some help on weekly maintenance.. So I plan on doing the whole nine yard detailing 2 times a year (more if needed) But after I wash-clay-wash-compound-polish-seal , What is the best maintenance after car wash on the newer cars?

wash-spray wax or wash-polish-seal ?

[inDetail]

BillE had a great point most newer vehicles are designed to keep water out of the engine components. You only need to cover the alternator, air intake and battery. I pulled my battery and drilled two holes in the battery box to drain out the water. So I don't have to take it out when I clean my engine.
I know my alternator gets water on it in the rain just because of where it is. Most cars these days have to engine blocks covered so no worries there. Start the engine let it run 3 minutes shut it off. This will make all the connections swell from the heat. spray down with some APC. Agitate rinse light spray of water. Don't not use heavy streams.
I dry with compressed air, leaf blower and towel. Then run the engine a gain to dry out the rest of the water.