A little guidance please

[mbret2004]

Hey folks,
I just used my 3401 for the first time. Actually, my very first time using any type of mechanical polisher. Here's where I'm at. I'm using light cut polish from a company called Hi-Temp out of Omaha, Nebraska. I have orange, white and blue Lake Country CCS pads. The paint has minor scratches, swirling from improper washing, no oxidization and has been hand polished/waxed since I bought the truck in 08. I used the white pad, after a wash, dry and clay. Cleaned up a few imperfections but still not satisfactory. I re-washed and did the hood with the orange pad. A definite improvement but still some defects left. While polishing:
- the polish dried in some spots not in others--really odd
- Used a 5 1/2 setting
- I'm unsure when the polish is fully broken down
- I know I'm moving the polisher to quick, seems like I speed up my passes as the polishing speed is increased. Concerned about burning paint
I'm ready to try again but would appreciate some insight. Thanks!

[Mike@DedicatedPerfection]

When I run my 3401 with FG400 I am on speed 3-4. If I get up to speed 6 FG400 becomes useless and dusts on the second pass. I know this is my experiance but cut your speed back to 4 and go 6-8 passes with slower arm movement.

Let us know how it goes.

[rmagnus]

The 3401 is my go too buffer. You really need to do a test spot to determine what you need to do. Try to find a system where 4-5 passes gives you the correction you are looking for. Speed 4 -5 is plenty fast enough. DA's require more downward pressure than a rotary. Move th epolisher about 1 inch per second in a 2x2' work area or even a little smaller. Don't feel bashful about using the LC CCS yellow pad because you are using a light cut polish. Finsh out with another 4 passes on the white pad.

I can't stress enough the test area. I've never used that manufacturer. It's important to know what your working with SMAT or DAT polish because they work differently. I use M205 a lot sounds similar to what you're using. More than 5-6 passes is all but impossible. Most polishes flash (go from wet looking into a drying state similar to watching alcohol dry/evaporate). M205 starts powdering when you've gone too far.

Your pads are fine but you might like to try LC Hybred pads on the 3401. Stay with a 5.5" pad.

Let us know how it works out.

[mbret2004]

sounds good. I'll post back after I try again.

[Mike Phillips]

A few questions...

What are you working on?

What color is it?

Just for fun... did you clay the paint before you started buffing?


Did you do a Test Spot before buffing out the entire car?



How To Do a Test Spot (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/50162-how-do-test-spot.html)
(and why it's so important)

[Mike Phillips]

I'm using light cut polish from a company called Hi-Temp out of Omaha, Nebraska.

!


From the product descriptions from their website it sounds like you might be using,

HT-61 Smooth Cut


Just a guess. I've never heard of this company or these products and it goes without saying I've never used these products either.

Here's the deal and this is something I talk about in all my detailing classes. Getting good results when polishing paint by hand or any type of tool all comes down to the abrasive technology.

I know a lot of people stress "technique" and I agree and even have an article on the importance of technique but here's the fact of the matter.

When doing any type of abrading or polishing procedure, the key most important factor that will determine great results from mediocre results is the abrasive technology being used in the products.


Clear coat paints are scratch-sensitive


You can have the best pads, tools and technique but if the abrasive technology is archaic, that is if it's simply put, not good, you're still not going to get good or great results because clear coat paints show ever defect.

I'm not saying this company doesn't have the best abrasive technology in their products because I don't know, I'm just saying this is a huge factor.

Another factor is how specific abrasive technology is designed to be worked. Many of the products this company is selling appear to be targeted for use at body shops on fresh paint. Nothing wrong with that as we all use and talk about body shop products on this forum. Heck, I come from a body shop background.

The thing is though body shops predominantly use

Rotary Buffers


You're using a tool that is VERY UNIQUE to the paint polishing industry in that it offers a gear driven, forced rotation and forced oscillation buffing action.

I know first hand that some abrasive technology when used with tools that oscillate will tend to leave the paint looking scoured with haze. So keep this in mind.


Do some more testing, maybe contact the company and ask them if the product you're using has been tested and approved for use with a tool like the Flex 3401 as some products will state right on the label under the directions that the are intended and formulated for use with rotary buffers only.

I'd start with the above before doing more buffing. Once you confirm the product you're using are okay or approved for use with tools besides rotary buffers then we can move forward.

Just for fun, maybe look at the direction for use on the label and tell us what they say...


:)

[mbret2004]

Did the two bucket wash, microfiber towel dry, clay, before buffing the first time.

I did do a test spot and it appeared that the orange pad was producing satisfactory results. I was working in the garage under fluorescent lighting maybe that messed me up? Anyhow, pulled it in the sun and the defects were still visible.

Mike you make a good point about the polish being "body shop safe." I took that tid-bit of information for face value, nothing more. Another interesting point, the polish bottle reads safe for machine or hand use. As you're saying, is the polish manufacturer assuming since it's a body shop product a rotary tool will be used? The directions say the product will level 2000 grit scratches. This did have me confused as to it's real purpose, is it a paint leveler or polish? I'll assume they are different animals.

I will take your advice and call the company and see what I can come up with. I'll post back.

BTW, the Flex is awesome! I had a basic feel for it after an hour or so. As stated on your video's and in the forums keeping the tool level is the key to control. I'm looking forward to getting more experience with the tool.

Thanks for the replies. I appreciate the help!

Go Hawks! :xyxthumbs::xyxthumbs: