Attempted my first paint correction today

[Calendyr]

Hello guys, I need your feedback to I can learn,

I attempted a paint correction today on a black 2008 Toyota Yaris (sedan). The paint is in miserable condition, all sorts of scratches, few kinks, rust spots, you name it.

So after searching for 2 hours I finally locate a cutting pad for my Meguiar Polisher-DA 2. After doing a thorough wash with dishwashing liquid (could not locate any hard wash in the stores around here) I clayed the car.

I was expecting Claying to be super easy from the videos I have seen. For some reason my clay kept breaking up I had to fold it on itself every 30 seconds or so. I was using the clay lube that came with it and used a lot of it. Am I using it wrong, it is because the paint so in such a bad condition? Maybe I used too little clay (quarter of the bar)... No idea why it was so complicated. Also it left a ton of residue on the paint, I had to wash the car again after claying... normal?

So finally get to the paint correction after drying the car. I started with the roof. Buffed the roof for about 30 mins and pretty much all the scratches were still there but the paint was a lot glossier. I was using speed 4, my pad kept kicking so I could not go higher.

Why would a pad kick like that? I did not do that with my Meguiar pads afterward so I am kinda thinking it's not my technique that is at fault.

Also how long is it supposed to take to correct the paint in a 2 X 2 section? In all the videos I have seen the guys buffed for about 30 seconds to a minute (it seems) and they were done. I went from 1 min to 2 min to 5 mins and paint was still not improving in a way I could see. Was I using too little product? I used 4 dots like shown in Chemical Guys videos. At the end I was doing an X pattern on the pad like Mike does. Changed nothing.

I decided to polish the roof and seei if that did anything. Paint became mirror like but with a ton of scratches in it. I applied the sealant anyway and called it a day.

Any advice? I really don't understand why it did not work. I am kinda guessing the pad is at fault but still, 30 minutes should have done it, no?

Do Toyota cars have hard finishes? Could that be the issue?

Looking forward to your comments.

[c8n]

Can you list the products you are using?
Also, are you using Meg's pad? and what color?

[PokeFan]

Someone may come correct me later but here's my input.



I was expecting Claying to be super easy from the videos I have seen. For some reason my clay kept breaking up I had to fold it on itself every 30 seconds or so. I was using the clay lube that came with it and used a lot of it. Am I using it wrong, it is because the paint so in such a bad condition? Maybe I used too little clay (quarter of the bar)... No idea why it was so complicated. Also it left a ton of residue on the paint, I had to wash the car again after claying... normal?

Falling apart with lots of residue. 2 things come to mind. First, were you using a clay lube? If you were my next guess would be dried out clay. Was it bought new or left over? If it's previously used make sure to seal it in a sandwich bag with a little QD to keep it from drying out.



So finally get to the paint correction after drying the car. I started with the roof. Buffed the roof for about 30 mins and pretty much all the scratches were still there but the paint was a lot glossier. I was using speed 4, my pad kept kicking so I could not go higher.

Why would a pad kick like that? I did not do that with my Meguiar pads afterward so I am kinda thinking it's not my technique that is at fault.

First thoughts, Did you prime the pad first? Are you buffing with a dry pad? This sounds like it's partially dry and couldn't glide over the paint like it should.



Also how long is it supposed to take to correct the paint in a 2 X 2 section? In all the videos I have seen the guys buffed for about 30 seconds to a minute (it seems) and they were done. I went from 1 min to 2 min to 5 mins and paint was still not improving in a way I could see. Was I using too little product? I used 4 dots like shown in Chemical Guys videos. At the end I was doing an X pattern on the pad like Mike does. Changed nothing.

I decided to polish the roof and seei if that did anything. Paint became mirror like but with a ton of scratches in it. I applied the sealant anyway and called it a day.

Any advice? I really don't understand why it did not work. I am kinda guessing the pad is at fault but still, 30 minutes should have done it, no?

Do Toyota cars have hard finishes? Could that be the issue?

Looking forward to your comments.

Again, I really think you may have had a dry pad. I'm fairly new to machine correction so I may be wrong but I think 30 minutes for a full correction on a roof might be pushing it for just about anyone. The videos you see when they're done in a minute have been edited. A full correction is going to take time, especially when we're talking 4-6 section passes on a small area. Again, I'm new and slow but I did 2 doors (split into 4 sections to concentrate better on one spot) last night on my car testing and it took me nearly an hour doing a full 2 step after all the testing and checking I did.

Hope that helps a little. Now let's see how I did! ;)

[Evan.J]

Can you list the products you are using?
Also, are you using Meg's pad? and what color?

:iagree:

List all your products and steps taken

What were you using for a lube for the clay?

When using pads and polishing its not about time its about speed, downward pressure, and arm speed.

You have the right speed setting on the machine no more than 4 when using the mf cutting discs. You will want slow arm speed and moderate downward pressure. Not so much pressure that the pad stops spinning. You will want to do about 6 section passes as well.

Photos would greatly help as well! :dblthumb2:

[c8n]

I detailed a 3-4 yr old Honda Element that was never clayed few months ago and there were two spots on the car where the paint grabed the clay breaking up the clay. I decided to get aggressive with use of a lot lube. It worked and clay started gliding fairly easily. I don't recommend you do the same until more experienced members chime in but you can try as a last resort. I figure the worst thing that can happen is clay marring that can be cleared up with polish.

[Calendyr]

I did not prime the pad. Not sure how to do that. Not sure why it would kick with 1 and not the other 2 though.... but I think that if I missed that step you probably nailed the problem. Thank you.

Products I am using:

Buffer is a Meguiar's G110V2RC Dual Action
Pads:
Presta Heavy Cut (number is unreadable) Orange they told me it was 7" but it looks like 8" to me
Meguiar's W8207 Polishing Pad (yellow) 7"
Meguiar'" W9207 Finishing pad (black) 7"

Products:
Meguiar's Ultimate compound (used with Orange pad)
Meguiar's Ultimate Polish (used with yellow pad)
Nu Finish (used with black pad)

The clay I used is brand new. It came in a kit with a bottle of clay lube: Mother's clay and mother's showtime Instant detailer

I used a lot of lube, it was not dry at any point.

For the pad, my speed was about 2 second for a pass (left to right or up to down). Pressure, I was putting the max pressure I could without having the pad stop. I made sure pad was spinning at all time. I pretty such my technique was ok. I watched a lot of polishing videos and timed the guys, 2 seconds seems to be the norm for 1 pass. I also kept the pad either flat or at small angle lifting the side I was moving toward. Read that prevents pigtails.

Photos, I only have before... should taken after but did not ;(

http://www.liguepokermetropolitaine.com/calendyr3.jpg
http://www.liguepokermetropolitaine.com/calendyr4.jpg
http://www.liguepokermetropolitaine.com/calendyr5.jpg
http://www.liguepokermetropolitaine.com/calendyr6.jpg
http://www.liguepokermetropolitaine.com/calendyr7.jpg
http://www.liguepokermetropolitaine.com/calendyr8.jpg
http://www.liguepokermetropolitaine.com/calendyr9.jpg
http://www.liguepokermetropolitaine.com/calendyr10.jpg

[Evan.J]

Troubleshooting Guide:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/37769-da-polisher-trouble-shooting-guide.html

How to Prime your pad:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/35292-how-prime-foam-pad-when-using-da-polisher.html

Ditch the Orange cutting pad its 8 inches and that too large for a DA

Use the yellow pad with UC for your correction. You can use the yellow for UP as well.

Make sure you have the washer on your backing plate as well.

Excellent How to article here as well:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/questions-about-porter-cable-7424xp-7424-7336-griot-s-meguiar-s-dual-action-polishers/38399-da-polisher-articles-help-newbies-machine-polishing.html

[c8n]

On top of what Evan advised.. I think the root of your problem is that the finish has not been decontaminated properly. As last resort pick an inconspicuous spot and get really agressive with the clay and use lots of lube. I am talking about 1 spray per pass and see if that works. Clay should really glide against a clean paint.

[Calendyr]

Thanks, priming is something I did not know about. Now I do. Hope that fixes the problem.

I plan of buying Lake Country 5.5" pads. I was told they are very good by someone on the forum. They are much cheaper too, 10$ vs the 21$ I paid for this one.

Now that there is polish on my yellow pad, can I really apply some other product to it? I was under the impression it's better to stick to the same product on 1 pad... Am I wrong?

[Calendyr]

Ok, I will not touch that car again I think. I might... will see ;) Will definatelly try to clay more if it happens again though. Thanks.

[Evan.J]

On top of what Evan advised.. I think the root of your problem is that the finish has not been decontaminated properly. As last resort pick an inconspicuous spot and get really agressive with the clay and use lots of lube. I am talking about 1 spray per pass and see if that works. Clay should really glide against a clean paint.

:iagree:
And to add to this as well. Most of the kits come with a mild clay so if you have heavy contamination then your going to require more passes and pressure to remove these contaminants.

That just popped into my head. :dblthumb2:

[c8n]

Don't mix products on the same pad.

[6supersport7]

All those pads are way to big for that machine. Some 5.5 inch pads would give you much better correction.

[swanicyouth]

I could be wrong, but I think your choosing all of your products by whatever is available locally. If you want to get great results, your going to have to get the right backing plate, pads, compound, polish, and clay grade for the job - all of which may not be available locally. Don't just pick up whatever the auto parts store has, as if it doesn't work it's a complete waste of cash.

If I was you, I would get one of the aggressive clay alternatives (like Nano Skin Sponge), their clay lube, a 4 & 7/8" backing plate, an assortment of 5.5" foam pads (or microfiber), some quality towels, and a professional grade compound and polish (OTC stuff may not have the bite for that car).

Then, take your time. If I'm trying to remove swirls using a DA, I'm using speed 5-5.5, 15-20 lbs of downward pressure, and an arm speed of 1 to 2 INCHES per second. After the defects are removed you can work faster.

[Calendyr]

All those pads are way to big for that machine. Some 5.5 inch pads would give you much better correction.

They are the ones that came with the machine ;)

If I go 5.5" I will have to change the plate too right? Current plate is 6" with the velcro area a bit smaller 5.5" most likelly.

If I need a new plate, are all plates compatible with every buffers are do I have to buy a Meguiar plate for a Meguiar buffer?