Scratch Repair : Need Advice

[swanicyouth]

My girlfriends 2001 Mazda 626 finally could take no more abuse. It was never maintained, never washed, and it was a heap of junk. It had clear coat failure and horrible dents and scratches all over. The radiator was filled with rust water and the last time I checked the oil it was down THREE quarts.

I can't believe it lasted so long. Finally it started overheating and something inside the transmission broke, as it began banging horribly when shifting.

She needed a new car. What was important was excellent gas mileage, reliability, a low price, and a good warranty. This wasn't going to be a Mercedes or an Audi. She ended up getting a Scion iQ in Black Currant:

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/14/eqypy3e7.jpg

Now this car is going to be maintained correctly. Its her first ever brand new car, so its kind of a big deal to us. The paint is pretty close to new car perfect, and seems to have no noticeable contamination or defects. I plan on giving it its first wash and wax this weekend.

However, somebody managed to walk by it and put a minor light scratch in the door. Quite frankly, I'm surprised she even noticed it. I know this would be MUCH BETTER with a picture - but I don't have one. But I'm looking for some general guidelines on how to go after it.

I don't have much experience wet sanding, and I don't plan on learning on a new car. The scratch is is pretty much a 1.5" line with a slight curve in it. You can barely just catch it with your fingernail, but just barely.

I'm thinking of trying to compound it out using either Optimum Compound or PoorBoys SSR 2.5 or 3 and an aggressive 3"-4" foam pad on a GG6, following up with lighter polishes / pads. My goal would be just to greatly improve or minimize the scratch, as its not terrible to begin with - as I'd rather be safe than sorry.

The thing is, I have done this kind of work on my BMW before, and it has came out pretty well. But that paint is pretty thick and easy to work with. I do have an inexpensive PTG and plan on utilizing it during the process - there can be no mess ups here.

Looking for opinions advice:

1. I know wet sanding is faster, but could I be able to achieve the same results going slower using a compound? Any reason why compounding would not be a good road to take and wet sanding would be better?

2. I'm concerned that this paint could be thin, soft, or difficult to work with compared to my BMW and Nissan. I'm assuming its bc/cc. Has anyone done any work on a Scion?

3. Lets say I measure the paint and its 130 microns. When is enough enough? Is taking it down 15% considered pretty safe? Lets say about 17 microns off compounding & 3 microns off polishing - does that sound approximately right?

TIA.

[rmagnus]

Compounding can provide the same result as wet sanding. Sanding provides greater control and accuracy. Since the scratch is light you might try filling the scratch with clear (clearcoat pen) then lightly sand with 3000 grit. Then polish it out.

I bet M105 / M205 would take care of it straight up.

What color is the car? Is it flat black like in the picture?

edit: If you measure the paint and you should take the difference between the door measurement and say the door jam. That will be close to the amount of clear you have to work with. Door jams usually have less clear on them. Also measure the underside of the trunk lid or drip rail as those are aslo sprayed lighter in clear.

[Kyle@PrecisionPolish]

A picture would definitely help. I'm no expert and just did my first time based on the scratch thread on the forum.

Mine was deep so I had to fill it in first.

I was scared to wet sand at first because I did not know how to bring the shine back.

I started with wet sanding 1000 to bring the full in level. I then moved onto 2000 and then 3000. It looked really good after just that.

Then I moved to GG with white LCD foam pad and wg finishing glaze 3.0.

It came out great.

The second scratch I fixed I switched my pad to a LCD flat black pad and wg finishing glaze 3.0.

The guys here will fill in from their experiences but I wouldn't be scared to tackle it if it is as minimal as you say.

[swanicyouth]

Compounding can provide the same result as wet sanding. Sanding provides greater control and accuracy. Since the scratch is light you might try filling the scratch with clear (clearcoat pen) then lightly sand with 3000 grit. Then polish it out.

I bet M105 / M205 would take care of it straight up.

What color is the car? Is it flat black like in the picture?

edit: If you measure the paint and you should take the difference between the door measurement and say the door jam. That will be close to the amount of clear you have to work with. Door jams usually have less clear on them. Also measure the underside of the trunk lid or drip rail as those are aslo sprayed lighter in clear.


The color is Black Currant, just like the picture. in person it looks like a blackish dark purple.

It's funny, while I was typing this thread, someone else was typing this:


I was trying to wetsand some of the touch up paint down to OEM level. But I found a mark that is not able to remove (the darker circle) . Should I keep wetsanding until its gone or ...? Thanks in advance.

http://i.imgur.com/ZYRvif6.jpg

That's exactly where I DON'T want to end up at. Thanks for the advice on measuring the door jamb and under the trunk. That is really helpful - I din't think of that. I will surely do that. I don't have M105 / 205, as I never really has to go after defects that would require M105. I do have Optimum Compound and all the Poor Boys SSR line. So, hopefully the Optimum stuff will do the trick.

I'm pretty scared of going any where near this car with sandpaper, as I don't really have the experience or the confidence to start sanding factory paint. I would rather just improve it, than try to eliminate it and going to far and getting strike through. I can't imagine the paint on these cars is very thick.

Thanks Again!

[swanicyouth]

The search is similar to what Junkman is taking care of in this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-n9AZFYfH-E&sns=em

Just wondering, what are the benefits of wet sanding? Wouldn't compound eventually level the scratch, just take longer?

Also, it looks like at some points he is holding the sanding block so just the edge of it is touching the paint and the rest of the block is off. Is that correct? I always thought the block was supposed to be flat on the paint.

[rmagnus]

The search is similar to what Junkman is taking care of in this video:

Minor Scratch Removal on a Lamborghini Murcielago - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-n9AZFYfH-E&sns=em)

Just wondering, what are the benefits of wet sanding? Wouldn't compound eventually level the scratch, just take longer?

Also, it looks like at some points he is holding the sanding block so just the edge of it is touching the paint and the rest of the block is off. Is that correct? I always thought the block was supposed to be flat on the paint.

There are tons of techniques. Some will use the sandpaper edge and run it down the center of the scratch to remove the edges of the scratch. Less visable due to the light refracting differently.

Hey if you're uncomfortable sanding just try polishing first. I've repaired a ton of these with AIO so anything like M205 will work wonders. If not take it to the next sep compound then polish. Use the product you have. I'm basically a Meguiars guy. Polish and compounds all do the samae thing.

Yes compounding is leveling the paint. I read a post that simplified pain correction. BAsically said "fill it or remove it to correct paint". In the end those are the techniques. I still think a few stroked with 3000 grip will make your life easier but remember it's a DD and this is the first of many scratches and rock chips to come.

Flat black/purple what were you thinking letting her get that color as if black wasn't bad enough!

edit: Looked at the Junkmans vid pretty good stuff. Gotta love a former Marine, :).

[swanicyouth]

Thanks for all the help. I'll make sure to take pictures and post.