Confused on wax sealant polish

[Shane4225]

I'm sure somewhere in the threads this has been written up before but I haven't found it.
What I am trying to figure out are the steps to achieving a DEEP shine.
Do I use

griots paint prep
clay
wax
sealant
mind you I'm doing this all by hand also


Feed back please

[MarkD51]

Preferably in this order.

Wash, then de-contaminate. De-contaminate can consist of many steps-processes, things like iron particle removal (with a product such as Carpro Iron-X) tar removal, claying, and these processes will prep the paint for the next step.......polishing.

Polishing permanently corrects the paint (well, let's say semi-permanently), whereas Glazes add shine, and temporarily hide swirls, and fine scracthes.


A sealant always first, then waxes if so desired.

Look to many of Mike Phillip's tutorials, and videos in the stickys of this forum. Mark
Mark

[Evan.J]

Well to create your deepest shine that will all start with a clean smooth surface.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/43190-gloss-starts-first-smooth-surface.html

So a clay will be in order as you have already stated you want to do.
Next you will want to identification the condition of your paint. Does it have swirls, scratches, holograms, oxidation, or clear coat failure just to name a few.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/off-topic/38689-what-condition-paint-your-vehicles.html

Once you have done that. The comes the most important step is doing a "Test Spot". The main things to keep in mind is to dial in the process on the test spot so that you know exactly what to do on the entire car. You will always want to start with the less aggressive method test it out and check your results. Some times car with a soft paint that is easy to work with can just need a polish and a wax. Others that have very hard paint and are tougher to work on would need something like a compound followed by a polish that's what makes the test spot such an important step.

Once you have your test spot figured out and u achieve the results that are satisfying to you then you can proceed to the rest of the car.

What all product and tools do you have available to you?
Work by hand is an arm killer and I know it will take a lot out of you. There are cheaper ways to get you onto a machine like the Harbor Freight DA. This is a good idea for those that don't want to spend $150 on a polisher. That something you may want to look into. I know there is a thread on the performance of the machine and it has HF DA in the title
If I'm not mistaken.

All your gloss and depth will come at the polishing point of your work tho it can be done greater results in less time and without killing yourself can be done with a machine.

[jimjc]

The Groits paint prep will clean you paint to get it ready for wax/sealant. Next you should do a "plastic bag test", put your hand in a ziplock or any thin plastic, like a grocery bag and wipe the palm of your hand across the paint and if you feel a sandy roughness then you need to clay the car. If it is very smooth and you feel no grittiness then you can go to your wax or sealant.

After the paint cleaner you need inspect your paint with a bright light for scratches and swirls, if you see you have these then you will have to polish these out. If they are minor then a polish like Meguiars 205 will get it done if they are deeper you will have to use a compound like Megs. 105 and after that you will have to use the Megs 205 to polish to a gloss finish then apply the sealer/wax.

If you have swirls and scratches you need to mask off a 2x2 area, trunk is a good place, to do a test area to see if you are able to get the swirls out. If you are successful then you can do the same to the whole car, the test is important to do to find out what will work if you have swirls. scratches.

The key to a good finish is getting out all scratches and swirls then you can acheive a good deep shine, so first on the agenda is to find out if you have those scratches after getting the paint clean. 1. use paint cleaner....2. check for scratches, remove them...3 Clay if you feel grittness with the baggie test...4. wax/sealant

[swanicyouth]

Only so much you can do by hand. What's the condition of the paint any pics?

[MarkD51]

The Groits paint prep will clean you paint to get it ready for wax/sealant. Next you should do a "plastic bag test", put your hand in a ziplock or any thin plastic, like a grocery bag and wipe the palm of your hand across the paint and if you feel a sandy roughness then you need to clay the car. If it is very smooth and you feel no grittiness then you can go to your wax or sealant.

After the paint cleaner you need inspect your paint with a bright light for scratches and swirls, if you see you have these then you will have to polish these out. If they are minor then a polish like Meguiars 205 will get it done if they are deeper you will have to use a compound like Megs. 105 and after that you will have to use the Megs 205 to polish to a gloss finish then apply the sealer/wax.

If you have swirls and scratches you need to mask off a 2x2 area, trunk is a good place, to do a test area to see if you are able to get the swirls out. If you are successful then you can do the same to the whole car, the test is important to do to find out what will work if you have swirls. scratches.

The key to a good finish is getting out all scratches and swirls then you can acheive a good deep shine, so first on the agenda is to find out if you have those scratches after getting the paint clean. 1. use paint cleaner....2. check for scratches, remove them...3 Clay if you feel grittness with the baggie test...4. wax/sealant

This member is 100% correct, the dollar store cheapo sammy bags are your best friend!

When that paint passes that baggie test, over every square inch of the vehicle, then you are ready to go onto polishing processes.

Meguiars 205, which is often carried by wally world at present is a good place to start with no machines.

A superb product, which will make you stand back and say Wow!

[Shane4225]

Well to create your deepest shine that will all start with a clean smooth surface.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/43190-gloss-starts-first-smooth-surface.html

So a clay will be in order as you have already stated you want to do.
Next you will want to identification the condition of your paint. Does it have swirls, scratches, holograms, oxidation, or clear coat failure just to name a few.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/off-topic/38689-what-condition-paint-your-vehicles.html

Once you have done that. The comes the most important step is doing a "Test Spot". The main things to keep in mind is to dial in the process on the test spot so that you know exactly what to do on the entire car. You will always want to start with the less aggressive method test it out and check your results. Some times car with a soft paint that is easy to work with can just need a polish and a wax. Others that have very hard paint and are tougher to work on would need something like a compound followed by a polish that's what makes the test spot such an important step.

Once you have your test spot figured out and u achieve the results that are satisfying to you then you can proceed to the rest of the car.

What all product and tools do you have available to you?
Work by hand is an arm killer and I know it will take a lot out of you. There are cheaper ways to get you onto a machine like the Harbor Freight DA. This is a good idea for those that don't want to spend $150 on a polisher. That something you may want to look into. I know there is a thread on the performance of the machine and it has HF DA in the title
If I'm not mistaken.

All your gloss and depth will come at the polishing point of your work tho it can be done greater results in less time and without killing yourself can be done with a machine.

Obviously I'm only recently gotten into the serious aspects of detailing and learning just how fun it can be. That being said the condition of my paint i would think is in the (good condition) category i keep my pretty clean clay when needed and always keep a coat of Griots best of show wax and use chemical guys or griots spray on car wash when needed
As far as car wash soap its always been griots but lately mr. pink by chemical guys and love it

[Shane4225]

Only so much you can do by hand. What's the condition of the paint any pics?

Not at the moment but i will take some in the morning what would be the best way to show the condition of the paint

[spiralout462]

Obviously I'm only recently gotten into the serious aspects of detailing and learning just how fun it can be. That being said the condition of my paint i would think is in the (good condition) category i keep my pretty clean clay when needed and always keep a coat of Griots best of show wax and use chemical guys or griots spray on car wash when needed
As far as car wash soap its always been griots but lately mr. pink by chemical guys and love it

Paint condition is not necessarily an indication of how "clean" it is. Condition is determined by how many above and below surface contaminates there are. A car can be super clean but be full of scratches and swirls, water spot etchings and bird dropping etching. If there are below surface defects that you want to remove a DA polisher will pay for itself the first time you use it. Evan's post is spot on IMO! Good luck and enjoy!

[Shane4225]

Paint condition is not necessarily an indication of how "clean" it is. Condition is determined by how many above and below surface contaminates there are. A car can be super clean but be full of scratches and swirls, water spot etchings and bird dropping etching. If there are below surface defects that you want to remove a DA polisher will pay for itself the first time you use it. Evan's post is spot on IMO! Good luck and enjoy!

I totally understand that which is why from my experience have been very good about not letting things sit on my paint etching it. Bird droppings and bugs are my enemies here in KY. I did purchase poorboy's world bird s*#t remover has worked great! Most of mine defects are the small hard to see cob web style scratch or swirls. Those I'm guess a polish will take care of???
I will be honest a DA polisher scares me considering i have no real experience with one. I've heard the horror stories of the mistakes people have made I for sure don't want that. :buffing:

[Evan.J]

I totally understand that which is why from my experience have been very good about not letting things sit on my paint etching it. Bird droppings and bugs are my enemies here in KY. I did purchase poorboy's world bird s*#t remover has worked great! Most of mine defects are the small hard to see cob web style scratch or swirls. Those I'm guess a polish will take care of???
I will be honest a DA polisher scares me considering i have no real experience with one. I've heard the horror stories of the mistakes people have made I for sure don't want that. :buffing:

Definitely a good thing you get all those off as soon as possible.

As for the DA those horror stories you heard mush have been from the rotors buffer as those machines can cause damage if used by an inexperienced user.

The DA is a great beginner tool and easy to learn without having to worry about damage.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/55512-s-not-hard.html

[Shane4225]

Definitely a good thing you get all those off as soon as possible.

As for the DA those horror stories you heard mush have been from the rotors buffer as those machines can cause damage if used by an inexperienced user.

The DA is a great beginner tool and easy to learn without having to worry about damage.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/55512-s-not-hard.html

I think you're right as far as a rotory machine. I've been looking into the griots garage one. I do keep seeing alot of people using the porter cable DA also so I may look further into purchasing that one.

[Evan.J]

I think you're right as far as a rotory machine. I've been looking into the griots garage one. I do keep seeing alot of people using the porter cable DA also so I may look further into purchasing that one.

The GG6" is one great machine and would be an excellent choice for you or any beginner. They have great package deals as well if you haven't seen though check them out. :xyxthumbs: