What would you charge for this RV?

[T3 AutoDetails]

Hello geeks,

A gentleman called today and wanted to know if I was interested in doing an RV that he is getting ready to sell.

I have never done an RV but have read about a good 100 hours or more on the difference between RV's and autos. So that being said i'm very confident in my abilities to do one I just haven't done one yet.

The guy wants

Exterior:
Wash & Wax
Aluminum wheels polished to new again
Wheel wells and tires dressed
Storage compartments cleaned
Back ladder polished
Windows
Engine detailed & dressed
All jambs

As far as the interior goes
Steam everything (as I told him I used steam)
Shampoo carpets
clean everything (different surfaces more like home appliances and the like)
Clean up the dash and dress dash area
Bathroom

It is in very good condition minus the exterior which he informed me is faded (oxidized) from the San Diego weather where he purchased it 3 years ago. He has some potential buyers coming to look at it early next week and wants to know if i'm available this weekend...I guess he heard about me from another clients vehicle I worked on so they must have put the good word in because IMHO it seems as if he is sold and I haven't given a price yet.

Here are some pics from his ad on CL so hopefully you can get a better idea. Again this thing is already in great shape and has no imperfections or stains as it sits currently. Thanks for taking the time and reading my post its greatly appreciated.

1997 Fleetwood Storm Class A Motorhome LOW MILES! Priced to Sell (http://siouxfalls.craigslist.org/rvs/3844473326.html)

[VP Mark]

Hard to give advice without actually seeing it in person but just from what you've said I would not touch it for less than $800 from his description of what he wants done. Were talking 2 full days here to hit every nook and cranny.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using AG Online

[T3 AutoDetails]

Hard to give advice without actually seeing it in person but just from what you've said I would not touch it for less than $800 from his description of what he wants done. Were talking 2 full days here to hit every nook and cranny.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using AG Online

I was thinking $1000, Mark your right with 2 days. I figured 1 day exterior 1 day interior. I figured that was pretty accurate trying to time my processes. I just didn't know if that price would make him cringe or not.

With the $1000 I priced everything I would do and put a time frame on it (if all goes right) including cost per hour as well as product cost and some other cleaning supplies not made for detailing per say.

[Anthony@zerboautoworks]

Just like Mark said, I wouldn't do it for less than $800. If and when you do it make sure you post some pics.

[rmagnus]

If it were me I'd pass on it. Assuming you have the right equipment to do it I'd price it by the foot. It would have to pay somewhere around $1,000-$1,500 for that level of detail. Waxing over oxidation doesn't work. AIO with RB and a wool pad will still be time consuming and labor intensive.

Just figure youe hourly rate and estimate how many hours the job will require and you have it. I'd still convert that into a price by foot conversation. I've seen many suggest $20 per foot for exterior alone.

Someone said one day each exterior and interior and I think it could be done in that timeframe. For a one man detail I bet you would wish for another day to get it done right.

Seems like a good price on the RV.

[civdiv99]

That may not have been a "shiny" finish originally. Looks to me like it was a matte finish, and polishing/waxing is not applicable.

Can't tell from pics, but that was typical by many mfr in the 1990s. If so, and the guy is thinking shiny result, there may already be a reality disconnect.

[Vegas Transplant]

Oxidation
Stainless hubcaps
Graphics will bleed
Wall to wall felt headliner
Topping it all off, asking price probably won't allow $1000 detail that a dealership will do in the less than $1000 range.

[scrubs147]

I do RVs just about every day, all day long. This is a gelcoat finish which means oxidation. It's a 1997 so if he wants it to shine again you're looking at some heavy compounding such as "Presta Super Cut Compound" with a rotary and wool pad. You have to stay away from the graphics by doing this. Two days for one person? Seriously? On Gelcoat finishes it takes me up to 3 days just for the exterior alone, and that's just me doing it.

If you're to do this job correctly and professionally, it should take two people at least 3 days to do the job right. Do you have wax specifically formulated for gelcoat? What are you going to clean and protect the rubber roof with? What are you going to use on the graphics? How are you going to make the bathroom shine again like it was never used?

[VP Mark]

I do RVs just about every day, all day long. This is a gelcoat finish which means oxidation. It's a 1997 so if he wants it to shine again you're looking at some heavy compounding such as "Presta Super Cut Compound" with a rotary and wool pad. You have to stay away from the graphics by doing this. Two days for one person? Seriously? On Gelcoat finishes it takes me up to 3 days just for the exterior alone, and that's just me doing it.

If you're to do this job correctly and professionally, it should take two people at least 3 days to do the job right. Do you have wax specifically formulated for gelcoat? What are you going to clean and protect the rubber roof with? What are you going to use on the graphics? How are you going to make the bathroom shine again like it was never used?

I appreciate your expertise on this but would like to ask the serious question: I'm not an RV expert but I have done tons of boats with Gel Coat and have used automotive sealants and waxes on them for years with great results. How is a gelcoat specific wax and a car wax all that different? It seems like the results I have had speak for themselves...

[scrubs147]

Here's an article I came across:

Carnauba wax Vs gel coat sealant, which is better?#
No one debates the need to seal and protect gel-coat finishes but there is disagreement over how best to do it. Many will only use a natural carnauba wax, but RV manufacturers are increasingly recommending only gel-coat sealant.

There are a number of valid reasons for this. While carnauba waxes may be fine for RVs that are covered 9 months out of the year, the limitation of carnauba wax durability is 60 days or less. Carnauba waxes start to melt around 150 degrees f. Direct and reflected UV and thermal radiation is literally melting the wax off the finish.
#
Synthetic sealant on the other hand, have better bonding characteristics than carnauba waxes, better abrasion resistance and melting points in the thousands of degrees. Synthetic sealant#will#outlast carnauba waxes and will typically produce a brighter shine. Sealant should last 180 days or more.

Rule No. 1:
Don't use#automotive#sealant or polishes on gel coat finishes. There are exceptions but if the manufacturer doesn't specifically recommend their product for gel coats, don't use it! Use only polishes and sealant that are designed for gel coats.

Another problem shared by both carnauba waxes and automotive sealant has to do with the very nature of gel coats. Gel coat is porous. Seen under a#microscope, your RV’s flat, smooth gel coat surface is millions of tiny holes! These holes, or pores, fill with microscopic grime, which promote gel coat oxidation. Think of this oxidation as "plastic rust".

The contamination in the pores is eating away the gel coat from the inside, filling the pores with a dull, chalk. As the chalk fills more and more pores, the entire gel coat surface will take on a dull, whitish finish. Carnauba waxes and automotive sealant do not remove pre-existing micro-contamination in the pores. Worse, they seal the contamination in place where it continues to oxidize from the inside, under the protective wax.

Gel coat is a totally different animal then paint... it is porous so it sucks up product like crazy… when oxidized like that any and all automotive products are a waste of time and money... and conventional ways of detailing go out the window.

[VP Mark]

Nice article and I agree that gel coat sucks up product. Most of the products I use are automotive but also specifically mention gel coat as well.

I dunno, it seems like a lot of the difference is overblown in an effort to sell more products.

Also, waxing and sealing on top of ANY oxidation on any paint is an amateur move at best. That should really go without saying that the oxidation has to be removed.
Sent from my DROID RAZR using AG Online

[Gerry.B]

I have spent four weekend days cleaning my RV and I still have another short day remaining. See: Detailing the Gelcoat on an RV – What about the decals/graphics? (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/boat-rv-detailing/65538-detailing-gelcoat-rv-what-about-decals-graphics.html#post882246)

I am certainly not an experienced detailer, but I've been cleaning things all my life. ;) You will probably work faster than me, but based on the level of detail your customer wants, I don't see how you could finish in only two days. I spent an entire day on the interior, which included cleaning all vents, light fixtures, and interior storage compartments. I keep my RV clean an organized between trips. The entire day was spent cleaning, and not removing stored items.

Another day was dedicated to exterior wash, meticulous cleaning of all exterior storage compartments, and wheel cleaning. I spent another two days polishing the exterior.

I used a Flex 3401 and Pinnacle XMT 360 for the gel coat. My RV is a 1999 Fleetwood. I suspect the gel coat is similar to that of your customer. My RV spent seven years in Connecticut and another seven here in north Florida. Throughout the years, I had only washed the RV twice a year each year. I never removed the oxidation until this year. The oxidation on mine was mild. I could rub it off with my fingers and see a shine beneath. After watching Mike's boat detailing video, How to Detail Your Boat - Removing Oxidation - Maintaining Sunbrella and Isinglass (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-car-garage-how-videos/51261-how-detail-your-boat-removing-oxidation-maintaining-sunbrella-isinglass.html), I decided that the Flex and XMT 360 on a green pad should be sufficient. So far it has worked perfectly. I certainly do not need anything more aggressive.

Good luck if you take the job.

[T3 AutoDetails]

Just like Mark said, I wouldn't do it for less than $800. If and when you do it make sure you post some pics.

Def will post pics up.


If it were me I'd pass on it. Assuming you have the right equipment to do it I'd price it by the foot. It would have to pay somewhere around $1,000-$1,500 for that level of detail. Waxing over oxidation doesn't work. AIO with RB and a wool pad will still be time consuming and labor intensive.

Just figure youe hourly rate and estimate how many hours the job will require and you have it. I'd still convert that into a price by foot conversation. I've seen many suggest $20 per foot for exterior alone.

Someone said one day each exterior and interior and I think it could be done in that timeframe. For a one man detail I bet you would wish for another day to get it done right.

Seems like a good price on the RV

Thanks for the advice, I think it would take me 2x days @ 12.5 hours/day to do the job correctly. I work very hard and never stop for breaks unless its bathroom and that normally has to be over a 10 hour detail.

As far as the Oxidation goes, I tried telling him I would need to take and could take it back to a new shine again at an hourly rate with everything else included still at about 50-60 hour but he said he is not worried about the oxidation. The buyers also know about the oxidation and do not mind it.

So in short, I did ask to perform these services but he just wants it washed and waxed as he stated (even knowing that it would be like rubbing wax on sandpaper). He is more worried about

Interior,wheels,engine. He made that clear so I have marked those areas down as I do most all my clients "problematic areas" they would like extra attention to or what bothers them the most.


That may not have been a "shiny" finish originally. Looks to me like it was a matte finish, and polishing/waxing is not applicable.

Can't tell from pics, but that was typical by many mfr in the 1990s. If so, and the guy is thinking shiny result, there may already be a reality disconnect

It had a nice shine but has since been gone after starting its life in San Diego. Previous owners were an older couple who just couldn't do the on the road scene no more with the coach nor keep up with the finish. So it sat most its life outside in CA while needing a new home until the new owner.

It sits in a warehouse indoors right now and has never seen a winter (brutal where I live). On top of that the guy has kept it in GREAT, I can't say that enough GREAT shape just doesn't care to spend what it takes to bring the finish back.


I do RVs just about every day, all day long. This is a gelcoat finish which means oxidation. It's a 1997 so if he wants it to shine again you're looking at some heavy compounding such as "Presta Super Cut Compound" with a rotary and wool pad. You have to stay away from the graphics by doing this. Two days for one person? Seriously? On Gelcoat finishes it takes me up to 3 days just for the exterior alone, and that's just me doing it.

If you're to do this job correctly and professionally, it should take two people at least 3 days to do the job right. Do you have wax specifically formulated for gelcoat? What are you going to clean and protect the rubber roof with? What are you going to use on the graphics? How are you going to make the bathroom shine again like it was never used?

Thanks for the reply, This would be professionally done with 2 people I have been working in a worker when I get too much of a workload and believe it or not he is great. Told once and picks up on things quick.

As stated above I would not be doing any correcting to the finish, Client doesn't want it done even though I said it would be best, I didn't push and let it be a dead subject. I would -take 2 gallons of ONR with me diluted down into Chemical pump sprayers and use a multi - level platform / a frame with me for the higher spots. After reading here I would prob throw on some sealant and was thinking of some Megs Syn D156, I got a few spare gallons.

I'm not going to kill myself on the finish as "you get what you pay for" and I don't work free. If I can make money on it I will and there is just no money in it on a simple ONR wash which is about all the client is willing to pay for with a wax (might just go sealant) even though I have informed him that it will not bond properly to that finish...Again you get what you pay for.

For the interior and bathroom, Multiple house cleaners and some APC+ with steam/multiple different arsenal of brushes and tools. Bathrooms = No prob I do mine with my steamer without chemicals and it turns out great every time.

Would also use steam on the vents and engine detail with a variety of tools I use for engines.


I have spent four weekend days cleaning my RV and I still have another short day remaining. See: Detailing the Gelcoat on an RV – What about the decals/graphics?

I am certainly not an experienced detailer, but I've been cleaning things all my life. You will probably work faster than me, but based on the level of detail your customer wants, I don't see how you could finish in only two days. I spent an entire day on the interior, which included cleaning all vents, light fixtures, and interior storage compartments. I keep my RV clean an organized between trips. The entire day was spent cleaning, and not removing stored items.

Another day was dedicated to exterior wash, meticulous cleaning of all exterior storage compartments, and wheel cleaning. I spent another two days polishing the exterior.

I used a Flex 3401 and Pinnacle XMT 360 for the gel coat. My RV is a 1999 Fleetwood. I suspect the gel coat is similar to that of your customer. My RV spent seven years in Connecticut and another seven here in north Florida. Throughout the years, I had only washed the RV twice a year each year. I never removed the oxidation until this year. The oxidation on mine was mild. I could rub it off with my fingers and see a shine beneath. After watching Mike's boat detailing video, How to Detail Your Boat - Removing Oxidation - Maintaining Sunbrella and Isinglass, I decided that the Flex and XMT 360 on a green pad should be sufficient. So far it has worked perfectly. I certainly do not need anything more aggressive.

Good luck if you take the job.

Thanks for the reply, It will only take me a day for sure to do the interior. Interior has no stains and is in mint condition minus the wear from being 16 years old. Couches and chairs as well. Won't need to take anything out of clean it as it's bare and ready and priced to sell currently.

Don't need to do anything more to the exterior per the clients orders but to clean it up which as I stated above my goto on that would be 2 gallons of ONR (sure it wont be 2 but you get the idea) in some sprayers and go. I think the exterior time while my helper is doing the ONR would be the engine (he wants it cleaned up nice.) And the wheels/Ladder in the back


scrubs147

Thanks for the info :dblthumb2:

[hernandez.art13]

Might be a Diamond in the ruff, who knows. (You could add it to your portfolio just take pictures!) Just remember that you are new to this specific job, but you are a professional. So charge accordingly.

(Props on the job! 👍)