How often and when to opti-coat, rewax, use spray wax and QDs

[MrOneEyedBoh]

What I just did yesterday was polished my paint, use Griots paint cleaner and then applied Opti-coat.

This is what Im wondering.

1. I use opti-coat topped with collinite 845. When can I tell that I need to redo either one or both? Can you reapply collinite around the half-life of its life? Or best to just let it die off and then recoat with either both or just Collinite 845?

2. When does an QD get utilized? I will be using ONRWW diluted down.

3. When can I use a spray wax?

4. And when layering on top of waxes, either same or different( I know opti-coat, which is said to be 12-24hr cure time ) what is the estimated time to let the first coat sit? What should you do to the paint to remove any contaminates that have landed on the paint over night? QD? ONRWW down to QD dilution would work fine right?

[hernandez.art13]

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[cleanmycorolla]

Wait so you used a paint cleaner, applied opticoat over it? Did you do any IPA wipe down? It's a coating, it should have a clean surface free of oils. Also, wax won't last over a coating....


Or are you talking about optiSEAL?

[poweraid]

why topping opticoat with 845 ? if anything maybe a spray wax or sealant . better choice would be reload or hydro2 or permanon .

[VP Mark]

No real reason to top opti coat. It is really a stand alone product. Anything on top of it would be pure aesthetics.

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[hernandez.art13]

It can make it " shinier/glossier" no?

[Evan.J]

Yes I agree no reason to top opti coat. Any shine and or gloss will be achieved prior to the application of opti coat. You could use the Spray wax or quick detailer to remove light dust but nothing will enhance the the shine.

[MrOneEyedBoh]

Wait so you used a paint cleaner, applied opticoat over it? Did you do any IPA wipe down? It's a coating, it should have a clean surface free of oils. Also, wax won't last over a coating....


Or are you talking about optiSEAL?
Yeah I meant Opti-seal.. Sorry guys, haha I know thats a game changer as that is two different products.

[the deta]

As soon as you see opti-coat whichever wax you use start to loose its beading capability.

[MrOneEyedBoh]

And thats based off of the size of the water drops ( or whatever its called )

[the deta]

yes sir, or if the paint is barley beading anymore.

[swanicyouth]

This is what I do, and since MY way is the ONLY way, you should do it this way too:


What I just did yesterday was polished my paint, use Griots paint cleaner and then applied Opti-coat.

This is what Im wondering.

1. I use opti-coat topped with collinite 845. When can I tell that I need to redo either one or both? Can you reapply collinite around the half-life of its life? Or best to just let it die off and then recoat with either both or just Collinite 845?


The sealant is the base layer, you can't "refresh it". Most of the time the sealant lasts months and the wax weeks, although that may not be the case with these products. I top off the wax once a month with another coat until I'm ready to try another wax (3-4 mos).

No point in waiting until you see a diminishing of protection if you enjoy detailing. That's enough time so the car always looks and beads good and not so much your waisting wax - as the stuff can be expensive. If your using Collinite for its legendary durability, you can probably wait 6 months, but some looks and protection will likely have been lost. Collinite is the exception to the rule, as it may outlast the sealant in this case.





2. When does an QD get utilized? I will be using ONRWW diluted down


Maybe never. I use a QD as a drying aid when I'm going to refresh my wax afterwards (apply paste wax). You can use a QD to take off isolated dirt here and there.

Don't get into the habit of doing wipedowns with a QD or ONRWW (@ QD strength) to remove dust or dirt on the whole car. Using a QD (or a rinseless diluted to a QD strengt)h is not a safe way to wash a car without instilling marring. There are waterless wash products out for that, and the jury is still out on how safe that is.





3. When can I use a spray wax?

I use one as a drying aid after every wash, except a wash where I will be applying a paste wax afterwards, then I use a QD. This will keep you car always looking "just waxed". I've found there isn't really anyway to "over use" a good spray wax. Applying a paste wax after every wash is overkill.

Keep in mind the line between "spray wax" and "quick detailer" is blurry. Many quality QD do leave some polymer protection on the paint.




4. And when layering on top of waxes, either same or different( I know opti-coat, which is said to be 12-24hr cure time ) what is the estimated time to let the first coat sit? What should you do to the paint to remove any contaminates that have landed on the paint over night? QD? ONRWW down to QD dilution would work fine right?

This will depend on the product. Technically, a pure carnauba wax (not a hybrid) can be layered immediately. There are no polymers to cross link and carnauba wax just "sits", it doesn't bond to itself (cross link) like a polymer sealant does.

You would just have to wait for the carrier solvents in the carnauba wax product to evaporate, which should happen by the time you finish the first coat if you apply it correctly.

A "hybrid" wax is a sealant/wax combo. So, the sealant "curing" in the product would be the rate limiting step. A good rule would be to see how long a manufacturer recommends for layering sealant in the same line. If there is no official recommendation, 12 hours is pretty safe.

Of course, if your just doing a second layer for coverage, there is no issue with doing it right away. The way I do it is I apply the second coat the first wash after I applied the first coat. That way the car is clean and I don't have to worry about letting it sit or not driving the car.

If you have to let it sit, how you clean it between coats depends on where it sits. Inside, you may be able to just blow it down with compressed air. The trick is to do as little "wiping" as possible.

This is mainly an issue on a dark cars where the finest of scratches are noticeable to the trained eye. IME you can get away with a lot more "wiping" on a light colored car. If it was a dark car and sat outside a day between coats and wasn't driven, I would do a rinseless wash on the paint. If it sat a day in a garage I would use compressed air first, then a waterless wash.

[MrOneEyedBoh]

thanks man. Great reply.

What I just did was used ONRWW to wipe off the pollen from over night sit ( the Opti-seal was curing ) and then I read online that if I use ONRWW as a QD, I cant use collinite as it might cause bonding issues. So I went with optimum spray wax.. Looks decent but I like how the Collinite fills the scratches that my paint has..

[primo spaghetti]

IMO there is no need to top Opti Coat with anything, but many people do find it necessary to top (even though the longevity of your topper is deeply diminished and you loose the hydrophobic qualities if Opti Coat)

BUT..if you insist as many do, IMO, If your going to put anything on top of Opti Coat, id look to Optimum Instant detailer and gloss enhancer...OR Optimum Car Wax (i prefer the detailer).

You can also use ONR or ONRWW at QD for a nice shine.

[swanicyouth]

thanks man. Great reply.

What I just did was used ONRWW to wipe off the pollen from over night sit ( the Opti-seal was curing ) and then I read online that if I use ONRWW as a QD, I cant use collinite as it might cause bonding issues. So I went with optimum spray wax.. Looks decent but I like how the Collinite fills the scratches that my paint has..

If your talking about "wax" (Collinite) bonding to OptISeal (bonding issues), there is no issues because wax doesn't bond. If your talking about between coats of OptiSeal, I would probably use a rinseless or waterless wash without carnauba in it.