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View Full Version : BLACK 2005 Ford F150 help...DA haze...swirls



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mpkav
05-25-2013, 05:54 AM
Ok everybody, I have black F150 that has some pretty good swirl marks and light scratches. Last fall I bought the PC 7424xp and WG products. I did my first full detail and wasnt happy with my results. After a TON more research and questions to you guys I found out I probably went way to fast during the process. I also was using 6.5" LC pads and only had a few of them. I have since bought several 5.5" LC pads.
One day a couple of weeks ago I had my products out so I decided to do a test spot with the new pads and really try to focus on my technique. I thought the spot came out great. I used my swirl light and it still looked great. When I got home this morning I shined my led light on the truck and noticed how bad the scratches were and also noticed bad DA haze in my test spot.
Do I adjust my product combination? Am I giving too much pressure? Could the paint be very soft? I have watched all Mike's videos and thought I had the process down. Any help would be MUCH appreciated. I love my truck but im getting a little frustrated. I feel like im going to use the paint sealant only to find a truck full of haze!! Here is my lineup,

PC 7424
WGTSR 3.0 Orange LC 5.5"
WGFG 3.0 white LC 5.5"
WGDPS 3.0 blue LC 5.5"

Think I have a pretty good wash process, clay,micros, ect. Here is a pic I took this morning. I'm planning on doing a full detail soon. I will try another combination to see if I can get a better result.
http://i644.photobucket.com/albums/uu167/mpkav/20130525_055949.jpg
http://i644.photobucket.com/albums/uu167/mpkav/20130518_154706.jpg

mpkav
05-25-2013, 05:56 AM
Thanks for any help in advance!! I know these things are asked over and over.

Classicvanity
05-25-2013, 07:06 AM
Just wondering what are you using for compound?
What speed setting did you use on the pc? a

Wheelzntoys
05-25-2013, 07:18 AM
Looks similar to this:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/65229-wolfgang-total-swirl-remover-haze.html

Test spot always start with least aggressive combo.

Could be you moved too fast, too many passes with Orange pad, too aggressive your combo, too much pressure.

For soft black paint make sure to clay first and I use a white pad for cut with Ult. Compound and polish with a black pad using Ult. Polish.

Still, my test spot is first with the polish (least aggressive)

swanicyouth
05-25-2013, 07:19 AM
TSR has never left any haze for me, in fact it finishes LSP ready. I'll be honest with you, that looks pretty bad. Inconsistency in the pattern makes it not look like DA haze. It almost looks like product is smeared across the paint? Is the paint clean in the pic?

inDetail
05-25-2013, 07:23 AM
I know Ford's tend to polish out very fast and some are finicky. My twilight blue focus is a pain sometimes. You may want to try a finer polish on a more aggressive pad. Are you using a pad primer or just polish as a primer. You can get away with DISTILLED water to help keep the polish workable longer. If the polish dries too fast on your pad it will scratch paint instead of polishing it. Make a habit of cleaning pads often. I use one of my daughters old baby tooth brushes keep my PC set to one let it spin a bit then blow out any residue with compressed air. I prime my pads with light mist of pad primer every time I reload the pad with polish or compound. I'm just guessing here but all these things are possibilities you may be going to fast working the polish too long or it may be something in your process that you are missing. I can only say test, test, test. Make sure your pads are extremely clean. I do cross my pads over for polishes and compounds just because I make sure they are spotless and I have never had an issue. Of course you can't do it in the middle of a session. If your like me and have a beater of a car available I tape out 6 blocks on my hood and label them with a white crayon. Yes I could car less about driving around like that. My wife's car is the final detail show piece mine is the process piece.

AjNavo61490
05-25-2013, 07:28 AM
What I would do, I would shift all my polish/pad combos down one...

Ex:

WGTSW/White @ Speed 5 medium pressure
WGFG/Blue @ Speed 5/4 light pressure
WGDGPS/Blue @ Speed 4/3 very light pressure

Not every car gets the same results for certain combos.. This being a black car, this I think would get rid of your haze problems.

GL!

mpkav
05-25-2013, 09:11 AM
Just wondering what are you using for compound?
What speed setting did you use on the pc? a
I haven't used any compounds. I bought the truck last fall and have only used the PC and WG products. I was using setting 5, should I try 6?

TSR has never left any haze for me, in fact it finishes LSP ready. I'll be honest with you, that looks pretty bad. Inconsistency in the pattern makes it not look like DA haze. It almost looks like product is smeared across the paint? Is the paint clean in the pic?
I washed it yesterday so it is clean. It's weird because that was a test spot and I did it almost 2 weeks ago. I didn't notice any haze until now. I was specifically looking for it because I had trouble last time I did a full detail.

Looks similar to this:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/65229-wolfgang-total-swirl-remover-haze.html

Test spot always start with least aggressive combo.

Could be you moved too fast, too many passes with Orange pad, too aggressive your combo, too much pressure.

For soft black paint make sure to clay first and I use a white pad for cut with Ult. Compound and polish with a black pad using Ult. Polish.

Still, my test spot is first with the polish (least aggressive)
I specifically made sure I was moving slow this time. I tried to pay attention to me speed and pressure. I will try to do a different combo today. Maybe the orange pad is a little too much?

mpkav
05-25-2013, 09:14 AM
I know Ford's tend to polish out very fast and some are finicky. My twilight blue focus is a pain sometimes. You may want to try a finer polish on a more aggressive pad. Are you using a pad primer or just polish as a primer. You can get away with DISTILLED water to help keep the polish workable longer. If the polish dries too fast on your pad it will scratch paint instead of polishing it. Make a habit of cleaning pads often. I use one of my daughters old baby tooth brushes keep my PC set to one let it spin a bit then blow out any residue with compressed air. I prime my pads with light mist of pad primer every time I reload the pad with polish or compound. I'm just guessing here but all these things are possibilities you may be going to fast working the polish too long or it may be something in your process that you are missing. I can only say test, test, test. Make sure your pads are extremely clean. I do cross my pads over for polishes and compounds just because I make sure they are spotless and I have never had an issue. Of course you can't do it in the middle of a session. If your like me and have a beater of a car available I tape out 6 blocks on my hood and label them with a white crayon. Yes I could car less about driving around like that. My wife's car is the final detail show piece mine is the process piece.

I primed the pad with product. This was only a test spot so the pad was actually new. The last time I did the full detail I was sure my problem was too much product because I didn't have enough pads and wasn't cleaning on the go. This time I have plenty of new pads and know how to properly clean them. I will try to switch up my combo and see what happens!!

Phathooddetail
05-25-2013, 10:14 AM
Back in the day before products got this good you had to do a process to get the paint right especially on black cars. Here's a link that maybe can help you out some http://www.autopia.org/forum/click-brag/91008-black-silverado-all-steps-applied.html?highlight=

mpkav
05-25-2013, 06:50 PM
Back in the day before products got this good you had to do a process to get the paint right especially on black cars. Here's a link that maybe can help you out some http://www.autopia.org/forum/click-brag/91008-black-silverado-all-steps-applied.html?highlight=
thanks for the link!! I will try a different combo tomorrow morning. My problem is I cant see if there is haze until its in exactly the right light.

mpkav
05-31-2013, 10:20 PM
I think I finally have the process down!! Here are a few pics so far. I have a little to finish up and a few other detail areas and then I will post more pics!! Thanks again for all the help.
http://i644.photobucket.com/albums/uu167/mpkav/20130528_210231.jpg
you can obviously see the swirls.
http://i644.photobucket.com/albums/uu167/mpkav/20130528_211931.jpg
All the swirls are gone and the black is much deeper!!
http://i644.photobucket.com/albums/uu167/mpkav/20130528_095732.jpg
In this one you can see the swirls in the light and the correction to the right! !! Im very happy with the results so far!!

74 thing
05-31-2013, 10:51 PM
Good thing using a test area! That truck has a lot of surface area so dial in your process first before going on. Make sure you clean your pads often if attempting to do the whole truck and take your time. If you get tired then finish off the sections you have completed with your wax or sealant and you can do the rest at another time. After all it is your truck so it does not have to go back to a cleint under a time constraint.

mpkav
05-31-2013, 11:25 PM
I think that was my problem the first time. I didnt have enough padd and I didnt clean them. This time I was cleaning as I went and it did a much better job!!

c8n
05-31-2013, 11:41 PM
Detailing 101 - Work clean

I learned my lesson the hard way as well. I continued using a foam pad that i dropped while waxing. Needless to say... i had one hell of a time removing swirls.