Am I Washing My Car Wrong (2BM)?

[swanicyouth]

So, after trying Super VRT I got interested in checking out some of Adam's products. While some of them are unGodly expensive ($30 for 36oz of "color changing" wheel cleaner - Really?); some of them look interesting - mainly the car soap and the detail spray.

Adam says if your washing your car in the sun or heat, don't rinse down each panel after you clean it with conventional soap. The idea is, its better to let the "pH neutral" soap dry on the panel, than "hard" water. He says even though the soap looks terrible drying, it's better to let soap (theirs) dry on the panel than hard tap water - and that it will actually DECREASE water spots.

He recommends if washing in the sun, to wash the whole car, THEN rinse the soap off. Actually, that's how I used to do it at the coin-op years ago before I knew better. I never had an issue, but I was always in the bay away from the sun.

Now, if this is true, this could speed up my washing time a lot, because I spend so much time (and water) trying to keep the car wet. However, it never works out 100% and I'm always left with some light water spots on the glass on the side that faces the sun.

I've found Duragloss Water Spot remover to wipe those spots right away (its a very good product). However, its another step and adds to the reason why it takes me sooo long to do a 2BM car wash.

I don't have the luxury of washing out of the sun. A lot of times, I'll drag all my stuff to the coin-op, use their pressure hose to pre-rinse everything and do a rinseless wash there just to avoid the sun (the bay there is covered). But, its a hassle dragging everything there.

I'm likely going to get a CR Spotless in the next couple of weeks, but I think a lot of the spots come while actually washing the SUV, not between the final rinse and drying process.

Anyone wash their car this way?

Thoughts?

[mwoolfso]

What you are saying is fine if it works for you.

In ungodly heat I will wash 1/2 the car and rinse it, then move to the other half and then re-rinse the whole car again. When I start drying it will always be on the sunny side side first. Never had a problem with water spots with this approach.

[WRXINXS]

I have never heard to let soap dry on your paint. I have to wash in the sun as well, and like you I just keep spraying down all the panel to keep them wet, then flood, then blow dry as fast as I can. Usually works pretty well.

As you said, it takes time to keep the panels wet but I'd rather spend the time doing that then removing a ton of soap residue and waterspots after the wash.

[swanicyouth]

I have never heard to let soap dry on your paint. I have to wash in the sun as well, and like you I just keep spraying down all the panel to keep them wet, then flood, then blow dry as fast as I can. Usually works pretty well.

As you said, it takes time to keep the panels wet but I'd rather spend the time doing that then removing a ton of soap residue and waterspots after the wash.

Adam (Dylan in video) says leaving the soap on the paint (dry or not) cuts down on water spots because it neutralizes the hard water.

Here's the video from you tube:

http://youtu.be/RZ-Myuj4llE

[FUNX650]

A few quotes by Dylan (of Adam's fame... not Bob):

1.) "Just because you can, doesn't mean you should"!

"The soap is designed the way it is as a measure of insurance, not an excuse to be careless.
Avoid allowing the soap to dry in the first place and you'll make life much easier on yourself ".

^^^I believe this to be true.^^^
__________________________________________________

2.) "Ideally you never want anything to dry on your finish;
but, if its completely unavoidable or happens by accident:
The soap serves to keep the minerals suspended, and being pH neutral...
It will not etch the paint or introduce any damage".

^^^I believe that some of this may be true, some not so true^^^
__________________________________________________


3.) "What if it does get baked on? How should you proceed"??

"In many cases just the act of rinsing the area one more time with water right before you start
your drying routine with a Great White Drying Towel and Detail Spray will be enough to:
'reactivate' the soap and make removing it easy as you dry".

"In the event you still have some soap residue that won't come cleanly from the surface,
try taking a small amount of soapy water, either from your soap bucket via a clean wash pad,
or a foam gun if you're working with one.

Essentially you will be: 're-washing' that panel to remove the soap".

^^^Among other items...No real time-saving value here, IMHO.^^^
__________________________________________________


As such:
I can only suggest to not stray too far from whatever products/tools/processes
you currently use to successfully wash/dry your vehicles.


:)

Bob

[Meticulous-Detail]

So, after trying Super VRT I got interested in checking out some of Adam's products. While some of them are unGodly expensive ($30 for 36oz of "color changing" wheel cleaner - Really?); some of them look interesting - mainly the car soap and the detail spray.

Adam says if your washing your car in the sun or heat, don't rinse down each panel after you clean it with conventional soap. The idea is, its better to let the "pH neutral" soap dry on the panel, than "hard" water. He says even though the soap looks terrible drying, it's better to let soap (theirs) dry on the panel than hard tap water - and that it will actually DECREASE water spots.

He recommends if washing in the sun, to wash the whole car, THEN rinse the soap off. Actually, that's how I used to do it at the coin-op years ago before I knew better. I never had an issue, but I was always in the bay away from the sun.

Now, if this is true, this could speed up my washing time a lot, because I spend so much time (and water) trying to keep the car wet. However, it never works out 100% and I'm always left with some light water spots on the glass on the side that faces the sun.

I've found Duragloss Water Spot remover to wipe those spots right away (its a very good product). However, its another step and adds to the reason why it takes me sooo long to do a 2BM car wash.

I don't have the luxury of washing out of the sun. A lot of times, I'll drag all my stuff to the coin-op, use their pressure hose to pre-rinse everything and do a rinseless wash there just to avoid the sun (the bay there is covered). But, its a hassle dragging everything there.

I'm likely going to get a CR Spotless in the next couple of weeks, but I think a lot of the spots come while actually washing the SUV, not between the final rinse and drying process.

Anyone wash their car this way?

Thoughts?

I just went to the Adams Detail clinic in NJ last month and I saw some detailing methods I didn't agree with. Like not rinsing the panel before touching the mitt to the paint. I always rinse and foam the panel before the mitt touches the paint. Adam did that wash technique at the last detail clinic but not this time.

When I first got into detailing I had a ton of Adams products, but then started their testing products against Meg's and others. I used my personal vehicles and would do have the car or trim or tires with Adams and other half with Meg's. I found the performance to be about the same but the price difference was huge.
I hated their machine finishing wax, it left what appeared to be small particles on the paint. My bud noticed this too.

I found their polishes and compounds are so so compared to Meg's, Menzerna and Optimum. I like their detail spray, towels, in and out spray, applicators and SVRT. Although I found Meg's ASD to be just as good as SVRT.

I have returned most of their products, I still have all their 6 inch pads and an looking to trade them away.

IMO for the price there are equal or better products.

I wash in the sun too and have been using the Larry from Ammo method of washing a car and have been very happy with it.

http://youtu.be/X0Sqi1lAj1A

[swanicyouth]

So much for that idea. I should of known when they were "correcting" paint without the backing plate rotating.