Opti-Coat over Opti-Coat? Is it possible or recommended?

[Radarryan]

Forgive me if this is common knowledge or someone has already asked and answered (I searched but to no avail), but can you, or for that matter, should you add another coat of Opti-Coat 2.0 over a previous coat. Would this add any protection, make it "pop" more than previous, or add any real benefit whatsoever, or is it just a waste of product?

I wasn't thinking so much on my garaged cars but rather on the vehicles that are outside 24/7. I just want those to be protected from tree sap, UV rays, and general weather that the outdoors are known for :)

Thanks for the input and happy detailing!

[PiPUK]

I understood from Optimum that it was plausible to do as long as within the original 30 days (or whatever the full cure time was) but not after that. The message they give is that nothing will stick, not even opticoat, after that time. On the flip side, there are now numerous discussions that opticoat can indeed be adhered to after this time but a number of products, so we cannot be certain of that.

What seemed more sure was that there really was not much point in doing it. Assuming a correct initial application, you will have full coverage and this should last the lifetime of the vehicle. Making the coating thicker is not going to add any new characteristics, theoretically just make it last longer (which isn't necessary). Optical characteristics really are not likely to change notable.

[Setec Astronomy]

As Mr. Megane points out, there have been varying answers about the "layering", and IMO also varying answers about the "point" of doing it. We were told there wasn't, then it became known that the pro version does produce a thicker film build, which was felt to be desirable.

I think in the real world, after a year or two or three, a DD is going to have enough wash swirls that you will want to polish it, and at that point a re-coat might be in order.

[Chris Thomas]

If you apply it while the first application is curing it will bond and add thickness. If you need to touch up any areas within 1-3 months it should layer...but, once fully hardened it will likely reject another application unless you Polish lightly with Optimum Finish to microscopically scuff it enough to accept another coat. This answer applies to Opti-Coat 2.0, Opti-Coat Pro cures faster so there is less time to layer....but, the polishing tip will still work.

It's easy to test a spot to see if it is going to work:

Make sure the surface is clean and free of wax, silicone, oils, etc.

Apply as usual

If it works as usual, you're good to go

If it smears and start to haze instead of flashing clear as expected, you will need to polish.

[ihaveacamaro]

As Mr. Megane points out, there have been varying answers about the "layering", and IMO also varying answers about the "point" of doing it. We were told there wasn't, then it became known that the pro version does produce a thicker film build, which was felt to be desirable.

I think in the real world, after a year or two or three, a DD is going to have enough wash swirls that you will want to polish it, and at that point a re-coat might be in order.


:iagree:

[Setec Astronomy]

If you apply it while the first application is curing it will bond and add thickness. If you need to touch up any areas within 1-3 months it should layer...but, once fully hardened it will likely reject another application

I realize there are some environmental issues at play here that effect the curing time, but is seems like you are saying that 1-3 months is "iffy", and you really need to "layer" within a month--so when does that layering window start? Is it 1 hour, 12 hours, 1 day after initial application, ending a month after?

[Chris Thomas]

It starts after the first application flashes and closes when the coating is fully dehydrated of solvent and stops making new cross links. There is no exact time due to variables. Like i mentioned, its easy to tell by just wiping some on.

[Setec Astronomy]

It starts after the first application flashes and closes when the coating is fully dehydrated of solvent and stops making new cross links. There is no exact time due to variables. Like i mentioned, its easy to tell by just wiping some on.

Ok, thanks Chris! So basically you are saying that if you are using 2.0 and want to approach the Pro thickness, you could start at one end of the car, and when you get to the other end, go back to where you started and do another application?