Review: Meguiar's Unigrit Sanding Block K-1000

[Mike@DedicatedPerfection]

Remove paint drips and runs quickly and conveniently.

Meguiars Unigrit Sanding Blocks (http://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-unigrit-sanding-block.html)


From the Autogeek webpage,


Meguiars Unigrit Sanding Blocks are the easiest, most efficient way to remove paint drips, sags, and other blemishes on top of the paint. Uniformly sized abrasives level the imperfection with the surrounding paint, leaving an even pattern of sanding scratches. The light sanding marks are then easily removed with a buffer. Meguiars Sanding Blocks are designed to turn a good paint job into a perfect paint job.



Last week a co-worker asked me if I could cut the runs out of his freshly painted door in which he had a few small runs at the bottom.

So today after looking over the door that was painted and seeing the minor paint runs I decided to take a different approach than the normal sand paper that is usually used to level the runs. Another option is to razor blades the runs out but I dont feel comfortable doing that nor do I care to learn that method after using Meguiar's sanding block.

Meguiar's sanding block is just that. A rectangular gray block that has sanding material on every single edge and is perfect for cutting the high spots of the run, drip, sag etc. This block allows you to flatten the high spots of the run without touching any of the lower areas. This will allow for uniform material removal in that the runs are cut flat to the surface before engaging the painted surface. This ensures the best possible defect removal.

Pros,

- Incredible control on what you are doing compared to using sand paper and a sanding block.

- Excellent leveling characteristics without touching other areas until needed.

- Did I mention easy to use? :)



Cons,

- Price. $19.99 for each little block




Here is the block in the packaging.

http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b508/123smack/Meguiars%20Sanding%20Block/DSC_0254_zpsd3c53126.jpg

In the bottom right corner you can see the different grits availible. I am reviewing the K-1000 or 1000 grit media.

http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b508/123smack/Meguiars%20Sanding%20Block/DSC_0255_zpsa124b9b5.jpg

Here is the block itself. It is very hard and sturdy.

http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b508/123smack/Meguiars%20Sanding%20Block/DSC_0261_zps98a9e51a.jpg

http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b508/123smack/Meguiars%20Sanding%20Block/DSC_0263_zps56c92110.jpg

The block needs to soak in soapy water for 15 minutes minimum. I had it soaking for 20-25 minutes before use.

http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b508/123smack/Meguiars%20Sanding%20Block/DSC_0265_zps9a396591.jpg

http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b508/123smack/Meguiars%20Sanding%20Block/DSC_0268_zps9b26412a.jpg

Here are the runs that need to be leveled with the surface.

http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b508/123smack/Meguiars%20Sanding%20Block/DSC_0269_zpscb72d562.jpg

http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b508/123smack/Meguiars%20Sanding%20Block/DSC_0271_zpsbded0449.jpg

Now you can see how the block allows you to start working on the high spots to flatten them before the surface below is touched.

http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b508/123smack/Meguiars%20Sanding%20Block/DSC_0277_zps68a76ef5.jpg

http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b508/123smack/Meguiars%20Sanding%20Block/DSC_0278_zpse99ab906.jpg

When the runs start to level you have to keep going until you cant tell a difference between the runs and the surrounding material. Here you can see that the runs are no where to be found. It is important that the surface is completely leveled like so.

http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b508/123smack/Meguiars%20Sanding%20Block/DSC_0280_zps13baa549.jpg

http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b508/123smack/Meguiars%20Sanding%20Block/DSC_0282_zpsbabda3a9.jpg

Now that the surface is scarred from 1000 grit and you cant find where the runs where it is time to start refining the surface. I picked up with 2000 grit sandpaper to refine the 1000 grit marks.

http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b508/123smack/Meguiars%20Sanding%20Block/DSC_0283_zps2e17392e.jpg

http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b508/123smack/Meguiars%20Sanding%20Block/DSC_0285_zps15a00fa8.jpg

Instead of just stopping on 2000 grit and picking up my rotary, wool, and M105 and going at it like a mad man, I chose to refine the 2000 marks even further. This is after 3000 grit sanding.

http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b508/123smack/Meguiars%20Sanding%20Block/DSC_0287_zps69277c84.jpg

http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b508/123smack/Meguiars%20Sanding%20Block/DSC_0289_zpsa4d6d1c3.jpg

http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b508/123smack/Meguiars%20Sanding%20Block/DSC_0291_zps94abd9b4.jpg

Now a little bit of work with M105, a yellow W8207, and my trusty ol 849 is put to work. I set the 849 as low as it would go (1000 rpm) and proceeded to make my section passes.

http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b508/123smack/Meguiars%20Sanding%20Block/DSC_0293_zpsc1204e00.jpg

I refined the surface further with M205 and a black W9207 finishing pad again set to 1000 rpm.

http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b508/123smack/Meguiars%20Sanding%20Block/DSC_0295_zps8eb0383c.jpg

Now for my pictures of the completed job....

http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b508/123smack/Meguiars%20Sanding%20Block/DSC_0300_zps6f8c6f9a.jpg

http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b508/123smack/Meguiars%20Sanding%20Block/DSC_0301_zps4b0349e3.jpg

http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b508/123smack/Meguiars%20Sanding%20Block/DSC_0303_zpsb7d87fc8.jpg

http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b508/123smack/Meguiars%20Sanding%20Block/DSC_0304_zpsc3afca3f.jpg

http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b508/123smack/Meguiars%20Sanding%20Block/DSC_0306_zpsa17e60bd.jpg

http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b508/123smack/Meguiars%20Sanding%20Block/DSC_0307_zps03eca058.jpg


For anyone that is doing defect removal whether it may be runs, sags, nibs, etc stop using a sheet of sand paper wrapped in a sanding block. This is the way to remove defects without a doubt.

:xyxthumbs:

[david11g35]

Awesome review smack.

I need to go pick up a junk hood and practice stuff like this.

[Mike@DedicatedPerfection]

Awesome review smack.

I need to go pick up a junk hood and practice stuff like this.

Thanks David.

This is a great skill to have under your belt in addition to paint correction.

[Evan.J]

Wow nice job Mike. Those were some nasty runs nice save!

[Marc08EX]

Very nice review and detailed photos, Mike!!! I didn't know you can sand paint runs and make it look like nothing happened.

[g35_coupe]

Wonder how flexible it is for convex bumpers and concave areas like around wheel fenders. And is durability about the same as regular wetdry paper or washable like micro mesh?

[Mike@DedicatedPerfection]

Wow nice job Mike. Those were some nasty runs nice save!

Thanks Evan. This block is a surefire way to remove runs in the best possible fashion.


Very nice review and detailed photos, Mike!!! I didn't know you can sand paint runs and make it look like nothing happened.

Thanks Marc! You can in fact remove defects from paint in the manner I did. Whether they are runs, sags, dirt etc.


Wonder how flexible it is for convex bumpers and concave areas like around wheel fenders. And is durability about the same as regular wetdry paper or washable like micro mesh?

This block is not pliable even after soaking in water over night. It says in the directions that it can be shaped. Im assumming with a more aggressive sanding paper.

Durability is outstanding. This block will hold up to repeated use with minimal degradation. I will update this thread after more use.

[530inv]

Very nice work mike. Looks like nothing ever happened. !!

[af90]

Didn't even have time to change out of uniform before you started working on it? :laughing:

Awesome job, so did you switch to 2000 grit sandpaper or a 2000 grit block? Do you think it's easier to use these blocks over wetsanding with sandpaper?

[BillE]

Great review Mike, thank you.

Bill

[Mike@DedicatedPerfection]

Very nice work mike. Looks like nothing ever happened. !!

Thanks Jace.


Didn't even have time to change out of uniform before you started working on it? :laughing:

Awesome job, so did you switch to 2000 grit sandpaper or a 2000 grit block? Do you think it's easier to use these blocks over wetsanding with sandpaper?

Lol. I work in a body shop for the Air Force and I was reviewing this block for work.

I switched out to 2000 paper as I didn't have the corresponding block. I don't really think a 2000 block is necessary if you already have the paper.

For cutting the runs the block is the way to go. After the runs are gone you can pick up with a sanding block and paper.


Great review Mike, thank you.

Bill

Thanks Bill.

[jvs1991]

Does it matter what soap you use to soak it in?

[Mike@DedicatedPerfection]

Does it matter what soap you use to soak it in?

No sir. Anything with a high lubricity to it.

Since being at work the only thing I have is the white soft soap hand soap.

[cardaddy]

I gora say I've got one that ice been using since 1989! The SAME one (2000) and you can't wear that puppy out. Although all my corners are rounded down. LOL

Can use straight water as a lube, but switched to ONR last year. Works like a charm.

Helps with RIDS like a key scratch, or a bush scratch when used on the edge or corners. Then use it flat to feather out. Much more precise than ANY paper medium.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using AG Online

[Circa40]

That's an awesome review Mike. I'll probably a few of them for some really deep scratches.