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allenk4
04-25-2013, 08:11 PM
I have read in the forums that Microfiber towels should be dried on low heat only so that the function of the fibers is not affected.

I recently read that when Microfibers become severely contaminated with wax or sealant; they should be boiled to remove the residue.

I checked the "Google Machine" and it appears that residential clothes dryers are 130-170 degrees fahrenheit.

Water boils at 212 degrees fahrenheit.

Why would it be OK to boil at 212, but not OK to dry at 170?

FRC Z51
04-25-2013, 08:20 PM
The answer might possibly be related to dry heat vs. wet heat keeping the fibers protected.

Evan.J
04-25-2013, 08:20 PM
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/21265-microfiber-drying-towels-best-boiling-towels-6.html

From this thread here is what Mike had to say:



One option, is to take your microfiber collection to a local Laundry Matt and use their washers and dryers for your car detailing towels.

I didn't start this thread and I've never boiled any type of towels and have never recommended it as a best practice and at this time I don't ever plan on boiling towels.

For as long as I've been detailing, that includes before microfibers were the new norm, I've used Tide Laundry Detergent, powder most of the time, and used normal top load washers and dryers and I've never had any problems wiping anything off of anything.

Everyone's always encouraged to find a way that works best for them, and a segment of online enthusiasts tend to like to take things that should be very simple and make them as complicated as they can, nothing wrong with this, buy my personal style is use the KISS system,

KISS = Keep it Simple Simon

From experience, you want systems for common tasks that are easy to duplicate over and easy to start and finish.

Here's my simple tip that I practice myself...

Start washing machine, set the water level to small or medium, select the HOT setting for water temperature, add your soap, either liquid or powder and let the washer fill and agitate the soap solution into a thoroughly mixed soap/water solution.

AFTER the soap and water have become a thoroughly mixed solution, THEN then add your microfiber polishing cloths and turn the wash timer back to the maximum time setting.

Let the washer run through it's cycle. Never just add the microfibers and the soap solution together at the same time because by the time the soap mingles through the microfiber and mixes thoroughly the wash cycle will be almost over.

If you like, repeat the above and wash the microfibers a second time. I do this often and when I've peeked in on the wash solution it's sometimes surprising to see how much residue is still coming out of the microfibers as you can see it by the color of the water.

After the wash cycle is over, place the microfiber polishing towels in the dryer on the normal setting or the setting for cotton towels and dry them.

Remove towels from dryer, fold and as your folding them separate them into their appropriate groups, (If you washed towels from different groups), and then store in a place where they will not become contaminated.

The 4 minimum categories of wiping cloths (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/21944-4-minimum-categories-wiping-cloths.html)

The above is a fairly normal and simple process that is easy to duplicate over and over again and the results must work because all my cars come out looking good after wiping them with microfiber polishing towels I've washed and dried using the above system.

Single stage black paint, wiped down with microfiber polishing towels washed and dried using the above system.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/BatmobileFinished11.jpg


Troy Trepanier's Sniper, wiped down with microfiber polishing towels washed and dried using the above system. Basecoat/Clearcoat Paint System.
http://autopia.org/gallery/data/500/2704sniperwithnxt.jpg



KISS - Keep it Simple Simon


:)

allenk4
04-25-2013, 11:16 PM
Just read on Mother's website:

Whichever you choose, as with cotton towels, launder separately and without fabric softeners (the fabric softener scratches paint).

How would fabric softener scratch the paint?

Bunky
04-26-2013, 05:35 PM
Fabric softeners to me make fabric softer by coating the material and thus reduces absorbency. I notice this with cotton materials as well.

statusdetailing
04-26-2013, 06:34 PM
I don't know exactly why it works, but it does. I boiled some really bad towels recently, just for the heck of it, and it definitely added a little more life to them. I felt like a big weirdo, cooking my towels in a huge pot.

Hazcat
04-27-2013, 07:52 AM
I have a discard bin for dirty towels. When I have enough for a load of laundry I mix up a bucket of Dawn or TSP (tri-sodium phosphate) and very warm water and toss in some towels, agitate, wring them out and rinse them off. If they look pretty clean I put them into the washer, if not, I rinse them out in a fresh bucket of dawn. This pulls out the wax, excess polish, stains, and allows the washing machine to do a perfect job because they look, feel, and work like new when they come out of the dryer. It might take an extra ten minutes to use this method but it keeps the washer clean and the towels work better than ever. That's the end goal, right? I have some yellow towels that you would have sworn were black before washing that look new again. In fact, I wouldn't hesitate to intermix the towels after cleaning except for the nap.

allenk4
06-18-2013, 08:33 PM
This tag came on a microfiber I recently purchased:

Heavyweight Buff & Polish Towel (http://www.autopia-carcare.com/heavyweight-buffing-towel.html)

It indicates "Do not heat above 195 F"

So it should be OK to wash & Dry on HOT

MyFirstES300
06-18-2013, 11:17 PM
I don't know exactly why it works, but it does. I boiled some really bad towels recently, just for the heck of it, and it definitely added a little more life to them. I felt like a big weirdo, cooking my towels in a huge pot.

This did not work for me. Ended up pitching them as they absorbed nothing at that point.

Shortspark
06-19-2013, 06:26 AM
This did not work for me. Ended up pitching them as they absorbed nothing at that point.

Me too. I took some old microfiber towels, including a couple Cobra WW that were no longer performing well, and tossed them in a big fish cooker pot of boiling water. The cooker was using propane gas so it really got hot and I let each one soak for about five minutes and then washed them. They were totally useless afterwards and looked all crumbled up. However, I stuck with them and have washed them several times since with Blackfire Microfiber towel restorer and they are coming back with each wash. I don't know how it is happening but I notice they are picking up more water now than before. I think there really might be something to this microfiber "restore" detergent, at least the one from Blackfire.

MyFirstES300
06-19-2013, 09:14 AM
Me too. I took some old microfiber towels, including a couple Cobra WW that were no longer performing well, and tossed them in a big fish cooker pot of boiling water. The cooker was using propane gas so it really got hot and I let each one soak for about five minutes and then washed them. They were totally useless afterwards and looked all crumbled up. However, I stuck with them and have washed them several times since with Blackfire Microfiber towel restorer and they are coming back with each wash. I don't know how it is happening but I notice they are picking up more water now than before. I think there really might be something to this microfiber "restore" detergent, at least the one from Blackfire.

I have the same detergent, but I do not think it was doing anything different than what Tide HE was doing. The mistake I have been making is that I was putting the towels in the washer first, then adding water and detergent. Now I know why I couldn't get a good rinse afterward. The water would be clear during the wash cycle, then the following rinse cycles would show plenty of soap suds. I'm now going to try the method outlined in this thread by adding water and detergent first and let it agitate so gauge if it's too soapy. Might go back to my "restore" detergent. -Ed

spence
06-19-2013, 02:59 PM
I was using Tide HE and started to notice my GG MF drying towels were starting to move around the water more and absorbing less. Went back to Blackfire MF Restorer and the drying towels seem to be absorbing more.

bobble
06-19-2013, 03:44 PM
Over the years I've never boiled any MF towels every. I do however wash them after each use or a few cars use in the case of WW. What I do is use any of the "free" type detergents(fragrance/dye free) and I premix the wash cycle, turn it on once full(I use ex small or small load only) add the detergent and let that run for a bit, then I add my towels and set back to the heavy cycle. Every other wash I use the additional rinse cycle and add a half cup of white vinegar. About once a month I'll wash using a dedicated MF detergent, currently using CG's one because of price and that seems to restore them. I have WW towels that are close to 3 years old they still absorb fine. I have GP MF towels and plush ones and always keep them separate. I hardly ever dry my towels but instead lay them out in the garage to air dry. Seems to work for me and it' pretty simple.

CCC4me
06-19-2013, 08:17 PM
I didn't know anyone still had top load washers:D Any tips for the front load type where you can't premix the soap and water?

sharpreflection
06-19-2013, 09:29 PM
Here's what I do it may be a few more extra steps but it works really well. First I mix up a bucket of hot water with dawn meguiars apc and 90 isopropyl alcohol. Let sit overnight the next day I rinse them out in another bucket and running water from my sink. Then just like mike suggested there off to the local laundry mat for a wash and dried they come out like brand new you will be surprised how much stuff comes off of them when you take them out of the bucket after sitting all night. It also cleans very dirty spots that I never used to get out before I started doing this.