Rookie - Exterior Detailing

[pasipple]

I just bought a three y/o black Audi Q5. It's in pretty good shape but it has swirl marks...so I want to give it a complete exterior detailing. Been reading the forum for weeks and have bought all my products including a Flex 3401. So, products are set pretty much unless I need to add a step?

My last car was a BMW and I used Zaino products exclusively...all applied by hand...so a DA and the WG line are all new to me. All these products are.

So here's the plan...and I'm looking for any comments. I believe I've got the order down...how about the all the rinse and drys? Necessary? Am I missing anything?

Thanks...

Wash (w/ Dawn)/Dry
Iron X/Dry
Tar X/Dry
Clay/Rinse/Dry

WGTSR/Wipe Damp MF
WGFG/Wipe Damp MF
Eraser/?
WGDGPS
Wait 12 Hours
Fuzion

[mavin]

Im a total newbie, but I know enough not to wash my car with Dawn :)

[Evan.J]

No on the dawn use a car wash soap

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/54451-how-detail-your-brand-new-car-mike-phillips.html

You can use tar X and iron x before the wash of the car

Claying will be after the washing and drying of the car

[dooyaunastan]

Dawn is only really used in addition to car wash soap as an additive to help strip existing LSP. Some people outright avoid it and would rather use a dedicated APC like Meg's APC+ or CG All Clean+. You'll definitely want to pick up a dedicated car shampoo, even if it's just Meg's Gold Class from your local Target/Walmart/Autozone/etc.

Some people actually prefer using IronX/TarX while the car is still somewhat wet from a rinse, I don't think drying after the wash or between those two steps is necessary. I would just use the products with new wash mitts for each one (as in not the soiled one you just used to wash your car) to agitate and remove them, and then dry after it's all said and done.

You could/should use Eraser as your polish removal aid. To preserve product you could just do it once after both TSR and FG, or you could use it during those steps to remove said product and see the car's truest possible finish. It's really up to you.

[pasipple]

Dawn is only really used in addition to car wash soap as an additive to help strip existing LSP. Some people outright avoid it and would rather use a dedicated APC like Meg's APC+ or CG All Clean+. You'll definitely want to pick up a dedicated car shampoo, even if it's just Meg's Gold Class from your local Target/Walmart/Autozone/etc.

Some people actually prefer using IronX/TarX while the car is still somewhat wet from a rinse, I don't think drying after the wash or between those two steps is necessary. I would just use the products with new wash mitts for each one (as in not the soiled one you just used to wash your car) to agitate and remove them, and then dry after it's all said and done.

You could/should use Eraser as your polish removal aid. To preserve product you could just do it once after both TSR and FG, or you could use it during those steps to remove said product and see the car's truest possible finish. It's really up to you.

I do a have a good soap...I do have the WGAB.

But I do have several coats of Zaino polish and glaze on the vehicle..forgot to mention that. So I need to strip all that off.

[pasipple]

Im a total newbie, but I know enough not to wash my car with Dawn :)

I realize you don't use Dawn as your everyday wash...but I believe even Mike Phillips stated that the occasional Dawn wouldn't be a problem. I do need to strip the old polish.

[pasipple]

No on the dawn use a car wash soap

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/54451-how-detail-your-brand-new-car-mike-phillips.html

You can use tar X and iron x before the wash of the car

Claying will be after the washing and drying of the car

Thanks...I'm a little...well a lot...concerned about Iron X and Tar X on an unwashed car...but I believe I read that you could. I just felt I'd take the caution "safe" approach.

[jdmj0]

I forgot who said it in what thread but the whole myth about Dawn being this insanely harmful-to-your-paint method is ridiculous. As mentioned above, some use it as an additive, others use it diluted with whatever amount of gallons. The only thing is people misusing it as a maintanence soap (which you seem to understand not to do already so you're good).

And as for Iron/Tar-X, do it AFTER you wash your paint. Mike has mentioned it in his thread but there's no point in doing it PRE wash as you want the product to work into the clear to liquify ferrous metals. How can it do that easily when it has to go through dust/dirt? Also, tips have been suggested to use a damp sponge to spread out your Iron X to minimize product usage (just search "how to use iron x" or something like that).

Your steps look good and to the point. I would add a step to clean your wheels/tires too before it all (Something like Meg's APC+ can work).

[pasipple]

I forgot who said it in what thread but the whole myth about Dawn being this insanely harmful-to-your-paint method is ridiculous. As mentioned above, some use it as an additive, others use it diluted with whatever amount of gallons. The only thing is people misusing it as a maintanence soap (which you seem to understand not to do already so you're good).

And as for Iron/Tar-X, do it AFTER you wash your paint. Mike has mentioned it in his thread but there's no point in doing it PRE wash as you want the product to work into the clear to liquify ferrous metals. How can it do that easily when it has to go through dust/dirt? Also, tips have been suggested to use a damp sponge to spread out your Iron X to minimize product usage (just search "how to use iron x" or something like that).

Your steps look good and to the point. I would add a step to clean your wheels/tires too before it all (Something like Meg's APC+ can work).

Thanks...I appreciate the help.

[Kevin Cullen]

Washing with Dawn is fine. It will strip your LSP and that is what you want. Rinse it off and apply the iron-x or tar-x with the car wet and let dwell. Don't let either product dry. I always apply these in the shade. After a rinse,rinse,rinse, dry the car and then clay with a good lube and you are done with prep and you can go.at it with your correction products, then eraser, then polishing, then eraser (up to you this step) then LSP.

[pasipple]

Washing with Dawn is fine. It will strip your LSP and that is what you want. Rinse it off and apply the iron-x or tar-x with the car wet and let dwell. Don't let either product dry. I always apply these in the shade. After a rinse,rinse,rinse, dry the car and then clay with a good lube and you are done with prep and you can go.at it with your correction products, then eraser, then polishing, then eraser (up to you this step) then LSP.

Thank you...Eraser after both polishes...

So no need to rinse after using Eraser? Appreciate the help...

[Kevin Cullen]

Thank you...Eraser after both polishes...

So no need to rinse after using Eraser? Appreciate the help...

Contact the company of the products you are using to see if you need to clean after each step. I.contact them off thier websites contact page. For example Duragloss says you don't have to clean in-between each step but most here will recommend cleaning.

You should not have to rinse after Eraser. That is the cleaning product and it has a lot of IPA in it that flashes off easily.

[pasipple]

Thanks Kevin....