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add lightness
04-18-2013, 05:20 PM
Hi everyone! I've been doing a lot of reading here the last few weeks trying to make a plan to restore the paint on my Miata, and I've got my shopping list ready for critiquing.


About the car, it's a 1991 with just 50k miles, in fantastic condition and looks pretty good from 10 feet away. However, up close you can see that it has the typical coating of swirl marks, as well as some REALLY bad water spotting, and some light to moderate scratches here and there. It looks nice when clean but is dull and definitely lacking that deep, rich glow of perfect paint. I don't think it's oxidized any, though. It still has the original, single stage, factory Mariner Blue paint. From what I've read online, Mazda paints are traditionally pretty thin.

Here is what I'm planning on buying/using:
-Meguair's Gold Class wash
-Clay Magic clay bar
-Meguiar's Ultimate Compound on Orange LC pad (5.5”)
-Meguair's Ultimate Polish on White LC pad (5.5”)
-Meguair's #7 Glaze on Black LC pad (5.5”)
-Collinite 845 wax by hand

I've read that the UC/UP is an acceptable consumer alternative to 105/205, so I chose them due to cost.

Am I one step too low on the pads, as in, should the UC be used with yellow, UP with orange, and glaze still with black?

Is there something I'm missing or choosing incorrectly? I just want to make sure I'm attacking this the right way, as I've never done more than a wash/wax. There's tons of good info on this site and the actual procedure seems pretty easy to figure out, I just need product input! Before I do anything I'll practice on my dad's beater Hyundai though!

Pics of the damage:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/medium/1104.JPG
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/medium/268.JPG
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8249/8607429274_dfa3d071a8_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/85068990@N07/8607429274/)
IMG_6670 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/85068990@N07/8607429274/) by add_lightness (http://www.flickr.com/people/85068990@N07/), on Flickr
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8101/8606323861_1ccfb7de37_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/85068990@N07/8606323861/)
IMG_6667 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/85068990@N07/8606323861/) by add_lightness (http://www.flickr.com/people/85068990@N07/), on Flickr
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8102/8606321619_fb7aae473b_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/85068990@N07/8606321619/)
IMG_6660 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/85068990@N07/8606321619/) by add_lightness (http://www.flickr.com/people/85068990@N07/), on Flickr

rmagnus
04-18-2013, 05:28 PM
What polisher do you plan to use? You will need several pads at a minimum 2 of each. Also keep pads clean as you work. There are several ways to do this. SS color will come off on your pads. SS is easy to work on.

Those products are fine. Paint looks reasonable. You will most likely have to compound then polish. UC is a good place to start. You may not need a yellow pad orange may be enough but do a small test area first. Test area should include the compound and polish steps. Use a DA for 845 goes on super thin and uniform but you can also do it by hand. Stay away from M105 as a beginer, UC or M101 (pricey) are better alternatives if using foam pads.

The rest of the stuff is standard 2 bucket w/ grit gards for wash, clean mf towels etc. That blue paint is going to pop when you're done.

PS Since it's SS paint consider using Megs #7. It's magic with SS paint.

add lightness
04-18-2013, 05:39 PM
I actually picked up a rotary from harbor freight the other week on sale for 40 bucks, but after more reading I realized that isn't the best idea. I might take it back, or I might give it a shot. Not sure yet. I've got the beater to practice on.

All the other supplies I've got covered, and will be doing #7 for sure (after the compounding and polishing steps, right?). For pads, then, I guess I'll do two orange, white, and black.

mavin
04-18-2013, 06:18 PM
You can get a dual action from harbor freight for $45 after the 25% off coupon, see the harbor freight dual action thread. You will need a 5 inch backing plate.

WRAPT C5Z06
04-18-2013, 07:26 PM
That rotary is a POS and so is the DA. Take it back and spend a few bucks more for a quality tool.

Skimmer0220
04-18-2013, 07:38 PM
That rotary is a POS and so is the DA. Take it back and spend a few bucks more for a quality tool.

The rotary is actually decent I've wet sanded and polished my entire car with brand new paint with the rotary also removes all the swirls with it as well


Sent from space through a satellite

andy2485
04-18-2013, 07:40 PM
Get the da from there. I love mine!! 2 year warranty is only $10.

RedXray
04-18-2013, 07:47 PM
If you don't have a good supply of new/clean pads... that rotary will come in handy spinning the water out of your pads after washing them. This will allow you to get back to work with the DA sooner without water slinging everywhere.

add lightness
04-18-2013, 08:08 PM
Yea, I think I'm going to take back the rotary and get the DA. I appreciate quality tools, but I'm not going to use this often and for the price the HF unit is worth it.

Vegas Transplant
04-18-2013, 10:19 PM
SS paint, 1991...hmmmm.
I'd test spot with OPS, GPS, maybe a spritz of OHC added to the pad, topped with 845... before attempting compound.

Regardless of what product you decide on, if you are near Bowie, I'll loan you an XP and Makita, and throw down with you... if you're up to it. I'll even bring the product and pads.

Sounds like the perfect candidate: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/off-topic/63027-northern-virginia-team-detail-anyone.html

Vegas Transplant
04-18-2013, 11:02 PM
This paint is on it's last polishing. Just wished that I would have taken photos as it sat in my drive yesterday. This detail was 12/04/12.


trashed 94? paint on its last legs - AutogeekOnline Gallery (http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/showgallery.php?cat=1845)

Vegas Transplant
04-18-2013, 11:06 PM
This paint is on it's last polishing ~ quite unstable. Just wished that I would have taken photos as it sat in my drive yesterday. It actually surprised me how well it is holding up. This detail was 12/04/12.


trashed 94? paint on its last legs - AutogeekOnline Gallery (http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/showgallery.php?cat=1845)

add lightness
04-19-2013, 07:26 PM
Returned the rotary and ordered the HF DA. Since Autogeek conveniently happens to be having a sale tonight only and my order will be cheaper here than on Amazon, I'll be ordering all my supplies tonight. Going with Sonus SFX ultra-fine or Pinnacle Ultra Poly for clay (is either better?), since AG doesn't have Clay Magic.

Can I get confirmation one more time that what I listed in the OP is a good pad/polish combo?
Thanks for everyone's input!


SS paint, 1991...hmmmm.
I'd test spot with OPS, GPS, maybe a spritz of OHC added to the pad, topped with 845... before attempting compound.

Regardless of what product you decide on, if you are near Bowie, I'll loan you an XP and Makita, and throw down with you... if you're up to it. I'll even bring the product and pads.

Sounds like the perfect candidate: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/off-topic/63027-northern-virginia-team-detail-anyone.html

Thanks for the offer! However, I'm in Cecil County (very northeast corner of MD), about 90 mins away, and don't really feel comfortable driving the Miata that far in I-95/beltway traffic.

add lightness
04-19-2013, 07:52 PM
Oh, also, does clay remove masking tape residue?

mavin
04-19-2013, 08:10 PM
use painters blue tape?