More Opti-Coat 2.0 Comments/Questions from an "Old Guy"

[tguil]

Just over a year ago, I made this post http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/48680-opti-coat-2-0-comments-questions-old-guy.html

I'm an even older guy now and still have a few questions. I've read numerous posts about Opti-Coat on this forum and three other forums. I have found no (well maybe one or two) negative comments about this product. It is also highly regarded by the guys that I consider to be real pros when it comes to detailing, been following their posts for years...lots of years.

So maybe after a year, I am finally ready to give Opti-Coat a try on my Ram 1500. I have used Meg's products almost exclusively since the early 1970's, so this will be a big jump for me. I'll probably only use Opti-Coat on my Ram because I may have compromised the clear coat a bit when I removed 79 paint nibs from the factory paint. (A story in itself.) I also may have compromised the clear coat on the hood by polishing out some repaint flaws. (No problem there, the body shop owner assured me of a repaint if I have nay paint issues in the future.) Whatever, I just as soon not have anything more repainted unless absolutely necessary. So much for the rambling. It's an "old guy" privilege.

The questions:

1. I live on a gravel road. Four miles of the stuff to get to a hard-surfaced highway. Needless to say lots of dust. Will Opti-Coat repel this dust to at least some degree? I have found the Optimum No Rinse tends to repel dust?

2. In the winter I use the coin-ops to get the big stuff off and then come home to finish the wash with ONR. The harsh car wash soap does not effect Opti-coat, right?

3. When I have really heavy dirt/grime on my truck, I use a Meg's body brush (Yep, I still have two.) and lots of soap solution to get off the grime and then follow up with a chenille wash mitt. I've had no problems with this brush marring the paint surface. (Too bad the brushes were discontinued.) No problems using the same technique with Opti-Coat right?

4. I understand the preparation for Opti-Coat application is very important. I have no problem with polish. I have lots of it and would prefer using what I already have on hand. All of it is Meg's and I'm quite sure that it has some oil in it. My latest is Ultimate Polish, but I also have Ultimate Compound, D300, SwirlX, #80, #82, #83. (Obsessive Compulsive Detailer?...Not me.) I also have Prep-Sol, 3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover and Iso Alcohol on hand. The truck has two very recent coats of Meg's Ultimate Wax. What would be the best combination of "stuff" to make sure that all of the wax has been removed?

5. Finally, if the body shop is aware that this product is on a vehicle, a thorough scuffing of the surface with either sandpaper or a Scothbrite pad together with a bit of "chemical" prep will make the surface ready for painting, right? I'm thinking mostly of when they apply clear to a full panel after doing a base coat blend of a repair.

I'm quite sure that I will have other questions. They may come up later. Any suggestions will be appreciated. If you can't tell already, I like to have "my ducks in a row" before starting any project.

Tom :cool:

[RaskyR1]

Just over a year ago, I made this post http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/48680-opti-coat-2-0-comments-questions-old-guy.html

I'm an even older guy now and still have a few questions. I've read numerous posts about Opti-Coat on this forum and three other forums. I have found no (well maybe one or two) negative comments about this product. It is also highly regarded by the guys that I consider to be real pros when it comes to detailing, been following their posts for years...lots of years.

So maybe after a year, I am finally ready to give Opti-Coat a try on my Ram 1500. I have used Meg's products almost exclusively since the early 1970's, so this will be a big jump for me. I'll probably only use Opti-Coat on my Ram because I may have compromised the clear coat a bit when I removed 79 paint nibs from the factory paint. (A story in itself.) I also may have compromised the clear coat on the hood by polishing out some repaint flaws. (No problem there, the body shop owner assured me of a repaint if I have nay paint issues in the future.) Whatever, I just as soon not have anything more repainted unless absolutely necessary. So much for the rambling. It's an "old guy" privilege.

The questions:

1. I live on a gravel road. Four miles of the stuff to get to a hard-surfaced highway. Needless to say lots of dust. Will Opti-Coat repel this dust to at least some degree? I have found the Optimum No Rinse tends to repel dust?

2. In the winter I use the coin-ops to get the big stuff off and then come home to finish the wash with ONR. The harsh car wash soap does not effect Opti-coat, right?

3. When I have really heavy dirt/grime on my truck, I use a Meg's body brush (Yep, I still have two.) and lots of soap solution to get off the grime and then follow up with a chenille wash mitt. I've had no problems with this brush marring the paint surface. (Too bad the brushes were discontinued.) No problems using the same technique with Opti-Coat right?

4. I understand the preparation for Opti-Coat application is very important. I have no problem with polish. I have lots of it and would prefer using what I already have on hand. All of it is Meg's and I'm quite sure that it has some oil in it. My latest is Ultimate Polish, but I also have Ultimate Compound, D300, SwirlX, #80, #82, #83. (Obsessive Compulsive Detailer?...Not me.) I also have Prep-Sol, 3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover and Iso Alcohol on hand. The truck has two very recent coats of Meg's Ultimate Wax. What would be the best combination of "stuff" to make sure that all of the wax has been removed?

5. Finally, if the body shop is aware that this product is on a vehicle, a thorough scuffing of the surface with either sandpaper or a Scothbrite pad together with a bit of "chemical" prep will make the surface ready for painting, right? I'm thinking mostly of when they apply clear to a full panel after doing a base coat blend of a repair.

I'm quite sure that I will have other questions. They may come up later. Any suggestions will be appreciated. If you can't tell already, I like to have "my ducks in a row" before starting any project.

Tom :cool:

1. I have noticed OC to attract less dust than traditional waxes/sealants, but dust will still accumulate on it...similar to a car with no protection at all. I do also find that if the vehicle is dusty but otherwise clean, a hard rain while it's parked does a pretty good job of self cleaning! There will likely still be some spots, but they are hardly noticeable.

2. OC is chemical resistant so the car wash chemicals should have no effect on the coating.

3. Should be the same or better.

4. If the paint doesn't need any polishing, then I would probably try the Prep-sol for removing the wax. How long since you last clayed and polished?

5. According to Dr. G all they should have to do is prep the panel like they would any other painted panel... That being said I've found some shops to be rather ignorant when it comes to this as they have never heard of Opti-Coat. I actually just had a client bring his car in 3 weeks ago and they refused to listen to me and Instead went off the advice of the PPG rep, which involved ordered up some crazy strong and hazardous solvent to try and strip it. I even forwarded them the email from Dr. G. and his contact info if they wanted to speak to him about it.


Hope this helps,
Rasky

[tguil]

Rasky,

Thanks for the reply.

Just clayed and polished the truck three days ago and followed up with Meg's Ulimate Wax. Think Prep-Sol will "git-r-done" without any polishing at all? I know it's pretty potent stuff.

Funniest thing. Body shop guys don't understand detailing....and detailers don't always understand body shop stuff. I often find myself in the middle.

I always read your posts and responses to threads. Living in the Twin-Cities, you know what a harsh midwest environment is like. I'm headed to Minneapolis this weekend. Please make sure all that the snow and road salt is gone, OK?

By the way is Opti-Coat really the greatest invention since sliced bread?

Tom :cool:

[RaskyR1]

Rasky,

Thanks for the reply.

Just clayed and polished the truck three days ago and followed up with Meg's Ulimate Wax. Think Prep-Sol will "git-r-done" without any polishing at all? I know it's pretty potent stuff.

Funniest thing. Body shop guys don't understand detailing....and detailers don't always understand body shop stuff. I often find myself in the middle.

I always read your posts and responses to threads. Living in the Twin-Cities, you know what a harsh midwest environment is like. I'm headed to Minneapolis this weekend. Please make sure all that the snow and road salt is gone, OK?

By the way is Opti-Coat really the greatest invention since sliced bread?

Tom :cool:

Never had to try and strip wax that fresh for an OC job to be honest. Only one way to find out really. ;)

Well I detail and my father has been doing body work for 45+ years so I see both sides. :D

We are supposed to get 5 inches of that white crap tomorrow and another inch or so on Friday...not sure I'd be able to obliged you on that request. :(

It is very good stuff, but I wouldn't go as far as to say that.

Cheers,
Rasky

[AeroCleanse]

I have used Opti-Guard (which is the professional version). It repels dirt quite well but doesn't prevent it 100%.

Car washes won't hurt it, but I just use ONR during the winter.

While its scratch resistant, I wouldn't use a body brush myself. Rinse with water then wash with a mitt, or do an ONR wash.

I would probably use IPA to remove the wax, prepsol might also work.

If the body shop sands the area they will remove the Opti-Coat for sure.

There are other products besides Opti-Coat you might want to look at. CarPro has CQuartz and GTechniq has C1. The newest GTechniq C1 kit has C1 and EXO v2. You apply C1 then after it's cured you apply 2 layers of EXO v2. You get all the protection from C1 and the shine and better water repellency from EXO v2.