Q: Both glare and film on windshield, I can't see at night or in the rain!?

[xtitan1]

Hey guys, this is my first post here and I will try to keep it short while giving you the facts.

The problem:
Really, it's two different problems both resulting in glare.

1. At night, any lights, especially red lights, give me this crazy glare so that it is very hard to see. It looks like those cartoons when God comes and the rays of sun come through the clouds, except it's coming from brakelights and is going into my eyes.

2. What's even worse is that when it rains (or if I use the wiper wash), the blades go over the water and leave a very thin layer of water in most places, and leaves a streak of water behind in others. That water catches the light as well and lights up, so then I really, REALLY can't see.

The thing is, wiping the blades over the water seems to just spread the water around instead of off of the windshield. I tried to document this with my iPhone, but I did a piss-poor job. Hopefully this link works, let me know if it doesn't.

x.T.'s Windshield Issue Video (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/44469516/WindshieldStreaking.mov)

So basically it's two issues that both result in glare (at night there is glare even when not wet, and then when it rains the water just spreads around and adds to the glare), but they must be related, right?

What I've already tried:
I originally assumed this was just an issue of old windshield wipers that had gone bad (I hadn't replaced them in a long time). I asked my dealer to put new ones on while they were servicing it, but the problem didn't change at all (in fact, it may even be slightly worse). The blades say "AC Delco" on them, and visually inspecting them, the rubber looks new, is flexible and supple, and seems to contact the glass throughout the movement of the wiper, and does not chatter.

I bought the Detailer's Krystal Vision Kit (http://www.autogeek.net/dppeviglkit.html) and did the following (using clean microfiber glass towels from cobra for each step):


1. Mist the glass with Detailer's Pro Series Krystal Vision Glass Cleaner. Wipe the glass with long strokes using your folded Microfiber Waffle Weave Glass Towel. Wipe first side to side and then top to bottom. Flip the towel to a dry side and give the glass a final wipe to eliminate streaks.

2. Repeat step 1

3. Mist a 2 ft. x 2 ft. area of glass with Detailer's Pro Series Universal Clay Lubricant. Gently rub the clay bar back and forth across the wet area only. It will grab initially. This is the clay grabbing contaminants that protrude out of the glass.
When the clay glides freely, the surface is clean. Wipe off the area with a clean microfiber towel. Use the clay lubricant to remove any remaining clay residue. Before moving on to the next section, inspect the clay to see if it appears soiled.

4. Detailer's Pro Series High Performance Glass Restorer. To apply by hand, pour a nickel size amount onto the orange side of the Wolfgang German Polish 'N Wax Applicator.
Rub the product onto the glass in overlapping circular motions. Allow a haze to form. Buff the glass with a microfiber towel. I had some trouble with this step as when I would rub the product in, it would just disappear after a couple of passes with the applicator, so there was no haze to wipe off. Maybe this means I buffed too much during the application and the product didn't have time to work or something?.

After doing all that, the problem still remains. The video above was taken AFTER doing this.

What I'm asking:
What do you think is causing this, in other words, what is the problem with my windshield?

And then of course, how do I fix it?

I am willing to bite the bullet and get a PC DA machine because I am finding this actually kind of fun and relaxing and satisfying (is that weird?) and am interested in detailing my car's paint in the future, so if that's necessary to solve the problem let me know.

[AutowerxDetailing]

I couldn't watch the video on the PC I'm using but I think I know what you are describing. It sucks when your windshield is jacked up. It's annoying while driving at night and whenever the glare from the sun catches all the fine scratches and haze (it can also be very unsafe in certain situations).

Here are a few guides that should set you down the right path:

swanicyouth had great results with CeriGlass via a DA to remove wiper haze.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews/58269-removal-glass-scratches-carpro-griots-da.html

I also have a guide that shows how to remove haze and even deep scratches from glass using a rotary or DA polisher. This link will take you to the DA section:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/52179-autowerx-ceriglass-guide-3.html

CeeDog did an excellent review on CeriGlass a while back. An epic thread on the subject of glass polishing...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews/43988-review-carpro-ceriglass.html

BobbyG also has a nice write up on glass polishing, also utilizing CeriGlass to make quick work of wiper haze and water spots from his windshield.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews/56274-review-carpro-ceriglass.html

If you read through these, purchase the exact same materials, and use the techniques described I can basically guarantee you will be a very happy camper.

Best of luck and any for any other questions you certainly came to the right place! :props:

[Steelman]

xtitan1
Rain X 12 Oz X-treme Clean Glass & Plastic Scrub
I have used this on "Exterior" windshields that had heavy film and hard water stains. This will leave the winshield streak free. Also wipe your WW Blades with Armoral get as much of the black crap off as you can.

[xtitan1]

xtitan1
Rain X 12 Oz X-treme Clean Glass & Plastic Scrub
I have used this on "Exterior" windshields that had heavy film and hard water stains. This will leave the winshield streak free. Also wipe your WW Blades with Armoral get as much of the black crap off as you can.

Thanks for the tips Steelman! Can you clarify what you mean by black crap? The rubber itself is black?

[Steelman]

"Can you clarify what you mean by black crap?"

When you use the Armoral on the wiper blades what you are removing is dirt, oil film. This also will keep your blades soft and UV prtected.

[xtitan1]

I couldn't watch the video on the PC I'm using but I think I know what you are describing. It sucks when your windshield is jacked up. It's annoying while driving at night and whenever the glare from the sun catches all the fine scratches and haze (it can also be very unsafe in certain situations).

Here are a few guides that should set you down the right path:

swanicyouth had great results with CeriGlass via a DA to remove wiper haze.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews/58269-removal-glass-scratches-carpro-griots-da.html

I also have a guide that shows how to remove haze and even deep scratches from glass using a rotary or DA polisher. This link will take you to the DA section:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/52179-autowerx-ceriglass-guide-3.html

CeeDog did an excellent review on CeriGlass a while back. An epic thread on the subject of glass polishing...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews/43988-review-carpro-ceriglass.html

BobbyG also has a nice write up on glass polishing, also utilizing CeriGlass to make quick work of wiper haze and water spots from his windshield.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews/56274-review-carpro-ceriglass.html

If you read through these, purchase the exact same materials, and use the techniques described I can basically guarantee you will be a very happy camper.

Best of luck and any for any other questions you certainly came to the right place! :props:


Wow thanks for this thorough response. I have been doing a lot of reading going through these links. I had searched for the answer to this issue before posting but somehow I missed these guides (*DOH).

I was reading through the one you wrote, and I just wanted to make sure that I was following and that the section at the beginning where you are using a PCXP is just to prove a point, and that someone trying your method should skip straight to the rotary buffer part, right?

Also, it says in yours to use LC glass cutting pads and then LC HT Cyan pads, meanwhile SwanicYouth says to not use those and use the CarPro pads. You also say a DA won't get the job done while SwanicYouth says a DA can and might even do it better. I'm confused!


You do not need a rotary to remove scratches or defects from glass. In fact, a DA could be better, as you will not have to worry about heat build up or causing any type of holograms in the glass - assuming its done correctly.


People assume they can use a DA and get amazing results. I'm just going to say it: You can't. You can get decent results with a DA but nowhere near what you can achieve with a rotary. You simply need to be able to apply A LOT of pressure AND keep the pad spinning to level deep scratches. With a DA you can't do that (exception: forced rotation Flex 3401 VRG).

Edit: I re-read your link, and I had originally assumed that it brought me to the post it did just because you were reading through and didn't feel like going back to the first page to grab the link, but now I realized you were trying to show me the posts by SonicYouth saying he got good results and you changing your mind. Still, I think the rotary might be worth the amount of time saved based on what I have read from you.

[AutowerxDetailing]

Wow thanks for this thorough response. I have been doing a lot of reading going through these links. I had searched for the answer to this issue before posting but somehow I missed these guides (*DOH).

Edit: I re-read your link, and I had originally assumed that it brought me to the post it did just because you were reading through and didn't feel like going back to the first page to grab the link, but now I realized you were trying to show me the posts by SonicYouth saying he got good results and you changing your mind. Still, I think the rotary might be worth the amount of time saved based on what I have read from you.

LOL sorry for the confusion there. To clarify: THE LC GLASS PADS SUCK! I don't recommend using them anymore. Those were just the only thing I had at the time and they do work they are just nowhere near as good as the CarPro glass pads.

With the CarPro glass pads you can achieve the same perfect results using a rotary or a DA polisher. You will just be able to get to where you want faster with a rotary. If you are planning on maintaining the paint on your vehicles with the same tool I would recommend going with a DA because you will have a much better experience and shorter learning curve.

[xtitan1]

LOL sorry for the confusion there. To clarify: THE LC GLASS PADS SUCK! I don't recommend using them anymore. Those were just the only thing I had at the time and they do work they are just nowhere near as good as the CarPro glass pads.

With the CarPro glass pads you can achieve the same perfect results using a rotary or a DA polisher. You will just be able to get to where you want faster with a rotary. If you are planning on maintaining the paint on your vehicles with the same tool I would recommend going with a DA because you will have a much better experience and shorter learning curve.

Ah, okay, no worries! It's incredible to be able to just piggyback off of the experience of you guys who have tried all of this before instead of shooting blind.

So I should use CarPro glass pads with a machine to apply CeriGlass, making sure to use the water spraying and application methods you both describe, until I am satisfied with the results?

Maybe I should just plan on buying a DA when I want to do the paint, because it sounds like this is going to take long enough even with a rotary. Any suggestions for a rotary?

[AutowerxDetailing]

I still haven't seen what condition your glass is in but I can honestly say that with CeriGlass and the CarPro pads you can get the results you want with a rotary or DA. For extremely jacked up glass with deeper scratches the rotary will simply take you there faster.

With all the advancements in microfiber pads and compounds engineered specifically for DA style tools I think just having a DA is the best way to go to start out. You will be able to perfect your glass and paint with very little risk of causing damage.

Sent from my Desire HD using AG Online

[xtitan1]

Understood. I think that makes a lot of sense.

Okay so shopping list:


1x CarPro Glass Rayon Polishing Pad 5" (http://www.carpro-us.com/glass-rayon-polishing-pad-5/glass-care/)
1x Fast Glass Cloth Towel 2 Pack (http://www.carpro-us.com/fast-glass-2-pack-100-streak-free-glass-cloth/glass-care/)
1x CarPro Ceriglass Polish 150 mL (http://www.autogeek.net/carpro-ceriglass-polish.html)
32 oz. Meguiars Generic Spray Bottle with Sprayer (http://www.autogeek.net/d20100.html) (to spray on the water)
Some sort of DA and a 5" backing plate?
Do I need a sealant or rain repeller?

[AutowerxDetailing]

Looks like you have a plan!

Some sort of glass sealant is going to be a must. After polishing away the defects the glass with be completely hydrophilic and will not shed water very well. Rain-X is always a good choice. CarPro flyby30 coating also looks very promising although I can't recommend it yet without further testing. I currently have my wife's DD wearing flyby30 on half the windshield and am troubleshooting some really weird wiper chatter.

Sent from my Desire HD using AG Online

[xtitan1]

Looks like you have a plan!

Some sort of glass sealant is going to be a must. After polishing away the defects the glass with be completely hydrophilic and will not shed water very well. Rain-X is always a good choice. CarPro flyby30 coating also looks very promising although I can't recommend it yet without further testing. I currently have my wife's DD wearing flyby30 on half the windshield and am troubleshooting some really weird wiper chatter.

Sent from my Desire HD using AG Online

You're the man! I will try to document what I do and update the thread so people can see how it turns out.

I liked your company's facebook page. Quid pro quo!

P.S. You have to tell me sometime how you do that golf course thing with the carpets

[bcope]

Also, when you clean windows, wipe horizontally outside and vertically inside or vice versa. That way you know which side has streaks.

[AutowerxDetailing]

Thanks! I'm looking forward to seeing your results! Keep us all posted.

Oh, and the carpet stripes are easy. Just do your final pass with the extractor in all one direction. Then go back over the opposite direction with suction only to lift the carpet fibers. If done carefully you will be left with crisp "carpet lines" that really speak to the "just detailed" look and feel on an interior. Sometimes I will go back over with my shop vac as touch up if I get any fingerprints on the carpet...

Sent from my LG-VM701 using AG Online

[jrs1418]

IMHonestOpinion.. Before you go crazy with all that.. I'd go buy some glass waterspot remover from your local hardware store.. something like "Diamond-Glass", and with a foam pad try doing a small section by hand and checking your results.

Recently I've done a car, that lived on a farm, that got hosed down and never wiped off. Waterspots everywhere. And it looked like wiper induced scratching and the waterspost creating a very bad glare like you speak of. With on pass of a DA and some cheap & harsh waterspot remover ($14.99 Diamond Glass), the glass was 80-90% corrected. Sometimes there's just a film on the glass thick enough to warp and distort the light coming through. And the wiper blades being old, have un-even pressure points.. some spots are clear while others have more build-up of gunk. My pads were BLACK after doing this car.. ALL caked on dirt and calcium deposits.

Disclaimer: I went with this harsh polish because I was planning on doing a followup with Ceriglass to clean up and marring induced by the Diamond-Glass. BUT, there was NONE.. and I save the customer about $50 and saved myself about an hour of time.