Observations from a Newb & BMW progress

[rms64]

Hey folks,

After a long weekend that was primarily spent working on my "new" (to me) BMW 335i, with a few breaks here and there to properly prepare for the Superbowl, I thought I'd post some observations about really trying to "do this right". I know there are posts all over the place about each of these topics but just consider this a new person brain dump.

First, my goal is / was to improve the finish on this 2007 car as much as possible without doing any damage. It came "pre-loaded" with some definite issues. So, for this weekend's attack, here was the process:

- Clean wheels (Sonax) and tires (Amazing Roll-Off)
- Pretreat with foam gun (CG Melon something-or-other. Great stuff)
- Wash using wash mitt, rinse
- Treat with ironx soap gel, rinse
- Clay
- Do a test spot on particularly swirled area
- Menz PG1000 with LC orange pad on the heavily swirled areas
- Menz SF4000 and SF4500 on LC orange and white pads, respectively. This is probabl a bit redundant but I was on a roll and it seems to have worked out pretty well.
- Carpro Eraser
- Blacklight
- Pete's 53
- Budweiser

My results are below and I have to say I'm thrilled with the Menz products. After an initial smaller-scale attempt with 105 / 205 I can say that, at least for a newb, the Menz stuff is crazy-easy to work with and gave some great results.

Other random observations:

- Don't detail with your car keys in your pocket. They'll stab you repeatedly.
- Do a test spot. Can't overemphasize this - it's critical to coming up with a plan that works for your particular issues / situation
- Slow down. If you get in a hurry, you'll end up taking shortuts which can only give partial results and use up costly product.
- Even with a DA, this takes time. Have a block of time dedicated to a particular goal - if that means doing "just the hood", or one panel in one session, it's better to do this than to rush and try to knock out everything in half-as#ed fashion.
- A DA is crucial, but your arms will hurt anyway when you're done
- Clean your pads more often than you think you should. Pretty much after every section pass worked best for me
- You'll need about 5X more really good microfibers than any sane person would think is reasonable
- As the finish on your car improves with all your hard work, you'll notice exponentially smaller imperfections - this will drive you nuts
- foam guns are cool


Anyway, a couple before / after shots are below. I'm not so great with the camera but I finished the weekend feeling very good about what I'd accomplished :xyxthumbs:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/medium/600_pre1.jpg


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/medium/600_pre2.jpg


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/600_post1.jpg


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/500/600_post2.jpg

Im the MAN

[cartman57]

Any recomendation on which Budwiser made the work easier?:cheers:

Looks great, some good random observations while working.

[GS2011]

:dblthumb2:

[vet]

Looking good!

What's the ratio for Budweiser to pad cleaning? lol

[Pureshine]

Look:)

[Mike@DedicatedPerfection]

Looks good. You should try Menzerna FG400. Much easier to use than Power Gloss.

[Mike Phillips]

All your observations are excellent, here's a few comments for the ones I've quoted you below...





Other random observations:

- Do a test spot. Can't overemphasize this - it's critical to coming up with a plan that works for your particular issues / situation



Excellent advice and a great "Best Practice". I always do a test spot on any car that I have not previously worked on. This includes cars I personally buff out, our Thursday Night project cars and even my demo cars in my classes as well as any car that's going to be used on TV or in a video. It just makes good sense.


How To Do a Test Spot (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/50162-how-do-test-spot.html)
(and why it's so important)







- Slow down. If you get in a hurry, you'll end up taking shortcuts which can only give partial results and use up costly product.



Moving a polisher faster over the surface just means the pad and product are skimming over the surface and little correction work will be accomplished.

The first machine step is the most important as this is the step that will remove the majority of all the deepest scratches. Any deeper defects not removed during the first step will remain at the end of the project except they'll be shinier.

This is also one of the things that most "customers" don't understand. The average person has know idea how long it takes to do a good job of machine polishing the paint to remove swirls, scratches and water spots.

If anyone is detailing for money they need to either,

A. Educate their customer as to why it takes longer to do higher quality and work to help the customer understand why they are charging more for this type of work and why they charge more than the hack detailer charges.

B. After educating the customer if the customer doesn't want to pay for higher quality work then only use a one-step cleaner/wax or only do a two-step process but still charge accordingly.

The new VIF I'm making helps you to educate the customer so you can charge accordingly, get everyone on the same page and match your services to your customer.

A few tips on starting a part-time detailing business (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-make-money-detailing-cars/27827-few-tips-starting-part-time-detailing-business.html)








- Even with a DA, this takes time. Have a block of time dedicated to a particular goal - if that means doing "just the hood", or one panel in one session, it's better to do this than to rush and try to knock out everything in half-as#ed fashion.



Exactly. A lot of times when I'm talking or training older people or people that might be physically challenged, I highly recommend NOT tackling their car or project in a single day but instead, break the car/project up into smaller, more time manageable sections. Spread these section out over a few days/weekends.






- A DA is crucial, but your arms will hurt anyway when you're done



The practical differences between single stage paints and a clear coat paints (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/21924-practical-differences-between-single-stage-paints-clear-coat-paints.html)

The Free Floating Spindle Assembly - The Story Behind The Story... (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/23995-free-rotating-spindle-assembly-story-behind-story.html)







- Clean your pads more often than you think you should. Pretty much after every section pass worked best for me


Very important.


Why it's important to clean your pads often... (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/28755-why-s-important-clean-your-pads-often.html)


How to clean your foam pad on the fly (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/20135-how-clean-your-foam-pad-fly.html)








- You'll need about 5X more really good microfibers than any sane person would think is reasonable



Just like buffing pads, you can never have too many...





- As the finish on your car improves with all your hard work, you'll notice exponentially smaller imperfections - this will drive you nuts



10-4 on the above, see this article as I explain my experience with what you mention above only with around 20 to 30 people noticing the remaining defects...

RIDS - The Definition of RIDS and the story behind the term... (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/24045-rids-definition-rids-story-behind-term.html)




Nice work Rob and you've really come a long way since first joining Autogeek. When you first joined you, like many we're seeking help.






New (to me) BMW - any hope? (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/58599-new-me-bmw-any-hope.html)

Hey Rob,

It was nice to meet you and spend a little time going over techniques for machine polishing. I really think the stains in your car's hood are pretty deep but if you massage them a little with your new Griot's DA Polisher you should be able to improve them enough to live with them while removing all the swirls.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/722/Rod01.jpg

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/722/Rod02.jpg








Now you're helping others...


:dblthumb2: :dblthumb2: :dblthumb2: :dblthumb2: :dblthumb2:

[Andr3wilson]

Looks good. You should try Menzerna FG400. Much easier to use than Power Gloss.

+1

Awesome job tho!!

[ihaveacamaro]

Amazing work!

How much gloss did the Budweiser give?

[rms64]

Any recomendation on which Budwiser made the work easier?:cheers:

I'd have to say about the third...:buffing:



Looking good!

What's the ratio for Budweiser to pad cleaning? lol

Thank you! I'll have to be a bit more scientific next time. Maybe 1:15 (that's 1 Bud per 15 on the fly pad cleanings) :D



Looks good. You should try Menzerna FG400. Much easier to use than Power Gloss.

Thank you Sir...Yeah, FG400 is on the list to try but I ordered the wrong darn thing and ended up with the PG. Oh well - I found it not too difficult to work with...


Nice work Rob and you've really come a long way since first joining Autogeek. When you first joined you, like many we're seeking help.


Now you're helping others...


:dblthumb2: :dblthumb2: :dblthumb2: :dblthumb2: :dblthumb2:

Mike, thanks! It's been fun to learn a little more every day - thanks to this great forum and some initial personal tutoring from you!

[rms64]

+1

Awesome job tho!!

Thank you!


Amazing work!

How much gloss did the Budweiser give?

Thank you - unless you're talking glossy eyes, the Bud doesn't do a thing for the paint! :eek: