Scratching the car with Rinseless/Waterless wash?

[sasson]

Hello! My question is about Rinse-less and Water-less Washes...
I heard LOTS of people saying that those kind of washes are scratching the car, well, I always wash my car without a hose... :eek:
Now, Is that true? are you scratching your cars paint if you use those kind of washes?
I work with Optimum No Rinse.:help:
If they do scratch the car, How could I use them and make No scratches ( where should I be careful ), or how could I make the smallest amount of scratches? :confused:

[68bowtie]

I scratched my car using blackfire waterless wash.

[Audios S6]

Some people have had problems scratching their paint after one use, others have gone two years with exclusive rinseless/waterless washes and had no problems.

By consensus it would seem that the Garry Dean method (youtube it) is the safest method to do a rinseless/waterless wash, although it's more labor and product intensive than a basic rinseless or waterless wash.

[sasson]

Some people have had problems scratching their paint after one use, others have gone two years with exclusive rinseless/waterless washes and had no problems.

By consensus it would seem that the Garry Dean method (youtube it) is the safest method to do a rinseless/waterless wash, although it's more labor and product intensive than a basic rinseless or waterless wash.

Thanks, I am searching For it now,
Any other thoughts anyone ?

[Sommy]

I too am curious. I have blackfire waterless wash sitting in my AG shopping cart.

[Rsurfer]

The key to using a waterless/rinseless wash is to pre-soak, use a clean mf (roll method) for each panel. Or you can use the Gary Dean method.

[sasson]

Well, I watched the video, He is using 50 Microfiber cloths... Let's say 8 Microfiber cloths per Car ( JUST FOR WASH! ), if I wash 2 cars I will need a hell load of towels... I use high quality only... This will cost me hundreds of dollars.
But, the video helped me understand a few things on how to Lower the chances of Marring the paint, Thanks for your help 68Bowtie.

If anyone has any other ways I would love to hear it!

[RhetoricMixes]

I honestly think your asking to scratch your car if you buy any waterless product. There's just not enough lubrication to handle anything other than light dust and even then you risk scratching. I've had no problems using ONR on both my personal vehicles and clients cars. Yes I've encountered very very light marring every now and then but that is usually when I'm working with soft paint. Besides that one situation I have no problem recommending any rinse less wash to detailers since they are very effective.

[2old2change]

When using rinseless or waterless wash remember you are lightly wiping the surface not scrubbing it down. Towel pressure should be light with frequent fliping and re-folding of the towel. The softer the paint the more care must be taken. In the midwest these type of washes are life savers.

[fenderpicks]

I have been using ONR/NRWWW for 6 months now... on my truck of course lol

It is a White 04 Ranger, i had it polished, then coated with CQ.
I dont see any scratch from using the waterless products....

I just use a wash mitt dip in waterless wash bucket and clean panel by panel. AND I USE THE MITT for my entire truck....

[sasson]

Alright, I got my answers now and I got a LOT more confidence with using my Riseless wash Optimum No rinse...
Thanks all! I am sure this was Important for several other people too!
=) GO TEAM!

[swanicyouth]

1. Go to your local coin op and pressure rinse first with water only. This only costs a few dollars and gets all the abrasive grit off.

2. Also, the Gary Dean Method is truly the way to go. It's much faster (no rinsing and wringing out towels), take less waterless wash product (about 2 gallons of solution per car) and really works. Pretreat all panels with a waterless product before wiping them.

I've had very good results with these methods.

[jjj]

I have used waterless and rinse less for a while. If the vehicle is filthy the two bucket method may not be the best. I use the dean method no matter how clean or dirty. Soak about 8-12 microfibers and pre rinse with waterless, I use pinnacle crystal mist. If the grime is not to caked you can use one mf for more than one panel. I.e fold in fours use one fourth for hood flip and use for fender, then unfold dirty side and refold on clean sides in fourths and do same for doors. If real dirty you will multiple side of mf for panel. I just did it with my black car that was pretty caked with road salt etc, did not scratch a thing. Good luck.

[jrs1418]

I use strictly waterless and do about 200+ cars a month. The key is, that waterless will not liquefy sand, rocks, sticks, leaves, etc. So if your vehicle has these on it, its better to hose off first. We generally work from top down being sure to keep an eye on anything that might not liquefy and drag. Frequent shaking off of towels and flipping is a must. We use (6) 300 GSM 80/20 Mf towels per car at a minimum. (2) Washing rags, (2) buffing rags, and (2) for rims/tires. Fold your MF towels into half twice, this gives you 8 clean sides to work with, and if its a dirty car use more microfibers. Make sure you evenly cover your panel with enough spray that you get all the dirt wet enough and never wipe any dry surfaces, even if your towel is wet. Save dirtier areas for last, like the panels behind the tires that get dirt slung up on them. And remember that even washing your car with water can leave scratches, if done improperly. After approximately 4,000+ cars I have yet to have anyone accuse us of scratching.

[cardaddy]

I honestly think your asking to scratch your car if you buy any waterless product. There's just not enough lubrication to handle anything other than light dust and even then you risk scratching. I've had no problems using ONR on both my personal vehicles and clients cars. Yes I've encountered very very light marring every now and then but that is usually when I'm working with soft paint. Besides that one situation I have no problem recommending any rinse less wash to detailers since they are very effective.


When using rinseless or waterless wash remember you are lightly wiping the surface not scrubbing it down. Towel pressure should be light with frequent fliping and re-folding of the towel. The softer the paint the more care must be taken. In the midwest these type of washes are life savers.

Given in cold climates there is a valid need for waterless/rinseless techniques, for that matter even here in the South it is a convenience on those rare days when it's below freezing. However.... one must always remember that to do so means you are taking away the most important thing that seperates your washing material/pad/muff/etc from your paint, lubricity (that most important film which is included in soaps/shampoo/foam etc.).

Doing waterless/rinseless extreme care should be taken in the handling and use of the cloth(s) involved, never using them but for a short time. Wash from the top down! Always using 2 buckets, with clear rinsing techniques, multiple dunking and wringing out in the wash and rinse buckets to load and rinse the soapy cloth(s), and using a LOT of cloth(s) along the way is the only thing that may even attempt to insulate oneself from scratches.

Whereas with a normal wash (for most).... it's wipe, dunk, wipe again. (Of course we AGer's here tend to add the "dunk in rinse water" between the "wipe" and "dunk again".)