Mike Phillips
12-13-2012, 09:02 PM
1936 Ford Roadster - Show Car Makeover (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/pictures-autogeek-s-car-week/58429-1936-ford-roadster-show-car-makeover.html)
To start with, here's the walk-around "After Video" I took using my iPhone followed with an interview with Mike Stowe, the owner of this 1936 Ford Streetrod.
Mike Stowe's 1936 Ford - Show Car Finish by Autogeek.net
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxbrOc9cfls&hd=1[/video]
From the beginning...
Here's how Mike's 1936 Ford Roadster looked when it arrived. To the untrained eye the car looks pretty nice!
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_006.jpg
Let's get a little closer however and do a little closer inspection...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_007.jpg
You can see were the paint is turning white from oxidation around body panel edges.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_007c.jpg
Same thing on this side, water spots, swirls, scratches and oxidation throughout the finish...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_008.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_009.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_010.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_011.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_012.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_013.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_014.jpg
Surface Contamination = Use Detailing Clay
Besides the swirls, scratches, water spots and oxidation we did the Baggie Test and the paint was also contaminated so after wiping the car clean we used Pinnacle Ultra Poly Detailing Clay to clay the paint before we started machine polishing.
Next we did a Test Spot
How To Do a Test Spot (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/50162-how-do-test-spot.html)
(and why it's so important)
I taped-off a section on the hood..
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_015.jpg
Before
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_016.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_017.jpg
Single Stage = You can see pigment
Here you can see the red pigment coming off of the car... it looks orange because it's oxidized and loosing its richness of color...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_018.jpg
Here's the before and after sides...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_019.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_020.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_021.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_022.jpg
Taped-off and Covered-up
With the chrome wire wheels and gangster white walls covered up, we're ready to get to work...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_023.jpg
Here's Paul starting out with the Griot's DA Polisher, I had him switch over to the Flex 3401 for more correction power...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_024.jpg
Here's Forrest using a Griot's DA Polisher...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_025.jpg
Here's Tim using a Meguiar's DA Polisher...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_026.jpg
Teamwork...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_027.jpg
Here's the owner Mike Stowe, former owner of Classic Instruments, using a Meguiar's G110v2 for the first time...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_028.jpg
Here's Oliver using the new Griot's DA Polisher
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_029.jpg
We used the convertible top as a base to hold our "clean" microfiber towels...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_030.jpg
A little painter's tape can save a lot of time and frustration
Anytime you work on a convertible, either put the top down or take and cover it to prevent getting compound and polish splatter into the weave of the material, ESPECIALLY if you're working on a red single stage paint job and the convertible top is white in color.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_031.jpg
Uneven panel fitment
Unlike modern cars, classics, antiques and streetrods can have panels that do not align evenly and if you don't pay attention to these areas you can buff through the raised body lines and sharp corners. So pay attention....
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_032.jpg
Work by handPeople ask me all the time how to polish areas of paint that you cannot reach by machine... it's called "the hand".
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_033.jpg
:)
To start with, here's the walk-around "After Video" I took using my iPhone followed with an interview with Mike Stowe, the owner of this 1936 Ford Streetrod.
Mike Stowe's 1936 Ford - Show Car Finish by Autogeek.net
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxbrOc9cfls&hd=1[/video]
From the beginning...
Here's how Mike's 1936 Ford Roadster looked when it arrived. To the untrained eye the car looks pretty nice!
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_006.jpg
Let's get a little closer however and do a little closer inspection...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_007.jpg
You can see were the paint is turning white from oxidation around body panel edges.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_007c.jpg
Same thing on this side, water spots, swirls, scratches and oxidation throughout the finish...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_008.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_009.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_010.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_011.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_012.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_013.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_014.jpg
Surface Contamination = Use Detailing Clay
Besides the swirls, scratches, water spots and oxidation we did the Baggie Test and the paint was also contaminated so after wiping the car clean we used Pinnacle Ultra Poly Detailing Clay to clay the paint before we started machine polishing.
Next we did a Test Spot
How To Do a Test Spot (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/50162-how-do-test-spot.html)
(and why it's so important)
I taped-off a section on the hood..
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_015.jpg
Before
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_016.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_017.jpg
Single Stage = You can see pigment
Here you can see the red pigment coming off of the car... it looks orange because it's oxidized and loosing its richness of color...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_018.jpg
Here's the before and after sides...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_019.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_020.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_021.jpg
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_022.jpg
Taped-off and Covered-up
With the chrome wire wheels and gangster white walls covered up, we're ready to get to work...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_023.jpg
Here's Paul starting out with the Griot's DA Polisher, I had him switch over to the Flex 3401 for more correction power...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_024.jpg
Here's Forrest using a Griot's DA Polisher...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_025.jpg
Here's Tim using a Meguiar's DA Polisher...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_026.jpg
Teamwork...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_027.jpg
Here's the owner Mike Stowe, former owner of Classic Instruments, using a Meguiar's G110v2 for the first time...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_028.jpg
Here's Oliver using the new Griot's DA Polisher
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_029.jpg
We used the convertible top as a base to hold our "clean" microfiber towels...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_030.jpg
A little painter's tape can save a lot of time and frustration
Anytime you work on a convertible, either put the top down or take and cover it to prevent getting compound and polish splatter into the weave of the material, ESPECIALLY if you're working on a red single stage paint job and the convertible top is white in color.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_031.jpg
Uneven panel fitment
Unlike modern cars, classics, antiques and streetrods can have panels that do not align evenly and if you don't pay attention to these areas you can buff through the raised body lines and sharp corners. So pay attention....
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_032.jpg
Work by handPeople ask me all the time how to polish areas of paint that you cannot reach by machine... it's called "the hand".
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1573/Mike_Stowe_1936_Ford_033.jpg
:)