It is a little hard to remove hologram from M105

[jackychai]

M105 and 205 on Rotary

I was trying correct a swirl 2003 M5, and the m105 corrected almost all the swirl. so I moved to 205 and it turns out perfect. but after removing all the polishing oil i can still see the hologram everywhere (but swirl free, weird).

so I go back to use 205 again and polish every panel, the holograms are gone, but my concern is if next time I need to polish out hard clear coat like this I need to spend too much time and a lot of products to remove the hologram.

Can you guys suggest a solution?
perhaps UC as a second step instead of M205?

or should I use menzerna products as they stated that they can take care of hard ceramic clear coat with ease?

If so, is there any thread before that do comparison between Meguiars and Menzerna products?

thanks for your input.

[rmagnus]

What pad and speed did us use on the rotary when compounding?

M105/205 should do the trick nicely. Other products will work as well but I use the above combo 99% of the time. I like to use a DA for the finishing work,(final polish/wax). The rotary works great for compounding and initial polishing steps.

[Joshs2013MSAltimaSL]

As magnus said, we need to know what pads you were using. If you were using a wool or heavy compounding foam pad (like an orange or yellow LC pad), then you would need to do a middle step before moving on to M205.

[jackychai]

i am using LC foam pad

M105 with orange pad @1000rpm
M205 with White pad @1400rpm

[Vegas Transplant]

Which LC foam?

Maybe as an effort to reduce 105 sling, your spinning too low of an rpm on the compounding step. Not allowing the product to fully cycle.

[Danube]

Your problem is in using rotary with both 105 & 205.

With 205 you need to use a dual action polisher (not rotary) to eliminate the holograms inflicted with rotary.

G/L

[Mike lambert]

Anytime I have toe use a rotary I follow with a da. It does not take that long and you are swirl free. Learned this from the old meguiars video tape and mike p. when he came to my shop years ago. You can even just take the 205 pad from the rotary and just put in on the da.

[Mike Phillips]

Your problem is in using rotary with both 105 & 205.

With 205 you need to use a dual action polisher (not rotary) to eliminate the holograms inflicted with rotary.

G/L


I agree.

Trying to finish out hologram free with ONLY a rotary buffer is more difficult and the only way you will ever know if you did finish out hologram free is to chemically strip the paint and inspect in very good light. Most people don't do this step only to find out down the road they left holograms in the paint.

To, key word, "ensure" a hologram free finish without having to invest the time in chemically stripping the paint and working backwards in your process, simply change the action of the tool.

Change the action of the tool = switch to ANY type of dual action polisher for the last machine applied polish.

Hologram Free with a Rotary Buffer (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/43684-hologram-free-rotary-buffer.html)




Anytime I have toe use a rotary I follow with a da. It does not take that long and you are swirl free. Learned this from the old meguiars video tape and mike p. when he came to my shop years ago. You can even just take the 205 pad from the rotary and just put in on the da.


Exactly Mike...

It's not about how "good" a person is with a rotary buffer, it's about two factors a person has no control over,

1. The direct drive SINGLE rotating action of the rotary buffer that imparts its own swirl pattern.

2. Paint systems are different and changing all the time. Every car on the road has a "paint system" on it.


:)

[Mike Phillips]

or should I use menzerna products as they stated that they can take care of hard ceramic clear coat with ease?




Most quality brand name polishes will work on any type of paint, the chemist take care of this as it's their job.


I know in some countries it's more difficult to get a DA Polisher that works and most of what I see guys in some countries stuck using is ONLY a rotary buffer. If this is your situation then get some Menzerna SF 4500 and apply this with a clean, soft finishing pad at low RPM. Practice holding the pad as flat as possible and be sure to clean the pad after each section with both a nylon pad cleaning brush to kick off any residue and then a 100% cotton terry cloth towel to adsorb and absorb any excess liquid.

If you don't know how to use a terry cloth towel to clean a foam pad I'll show this during the live broadcast on Saturday sometime while out in Lincoln, Nebraska.

Official Invitation to MIKE PHILLIPS!!!!!! - Accepted! (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/57875-official-invitation-mike-phillips-accepted.html)


Then apply a good wax, sealant or coating and maintain it and if there are holograms you'll never see them...


:)

[Joshs2013MSAltimaSL]

M105 and M205 can both be used with a rotary if used properly. If you're using M105 with an orange pad, you need to follow it up with M105 on the white pad and then use M205 with a blue pad. M205 is a finishing polish and should be used with a finishing pad.

[Flannigan]

It's all in the technique. You should be able to finish just about any car with a rotary if you are using propper techniques. That said, I tend to finish cars with a DA just because it's usually easier, but if I'm doing a show car prep, I always finish with a rotary to get every bit of gloss I can from the paint.

[statusdetailing]

I find it difficult to finish out with a white pad on rotary. I don't feel likes there's much difference between orange and white. Matter fact, a good, broken in orange pad will sometimes feel softer and cut less than a newer white pad. A finer pad and working down to a low speed is the trick, but it's a huge pain.

It seems like it's almost always better to finish out with a DA. Just to be on the safe side.

[Joshs2013MSAltimaSL]

I find it difficult to finish out with a white pad on rotary. I don't feel likes there's much difference between orange and white. Matter fact, a good, broken in orange pad will sometimes feel softer and cut less than a newer white pad. A finer pad and working down to a low speed is the trick, but it's a huge pain.

It seems like it's almost always better to finish out with a DA. Just to be on the safe side.

A white pad is not a finishing pad. To do finishing work, you would want to use a dedicated pad like a blue LC pad, regardless of the type of machine you're using. Times where you wouldn't use a dedicated finishing pad would be if you're doing a 1 step correction with a combo like Menz Power Finish and a green LC pad.

[Mike Phillips]

I'll stick to what I say about people never proving they finish out hologram free...


I just never see the pictures and documentation as to how they know 100% for sure they're leaving a 100% hologram-free finish.

I can't actually even think of any threads with pictures and the steps any detailer has posted to back up what they claim. Lots of talk... where's the walk?

Where's the threads? Pictures? Documented steps? If it's easy to do, shouldn't it be easy to prove? :laughing:


Here's a thread with some good posts on this topic...

Why would anyone use a DA for paint correction?? (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/56173-why-would-anyone-use-da-paint-correction.html)


:dblthumb2:

[jackychai]

thanks everyone!!

i will try all the method mentioned to gain more experience.

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