What do I do?!

[Shane4225]

Hey guys I'm sure this is a question asked a million times but I'm trying to make a decision I'm all about achieving a glass like finish on my vehicles I was wanting to get some ideas as to great products for this. So far I've kinda decided on Griots paint prep an wax prep
Chemical guys medium clay bar
Wheel wax for my wheels
An collinite insulater for my sealant
Any an all recommendations are appreciated

[BobbyG]

:welcome: To Autogeek Online Shane!

Many of the productvs below will serve double duty as they have multiple uses..

Wash - Duragloss #901
Clay - Meguiar’s Clay
Compound - PG 1000 – PowerGloss Compound (POS34A)
Polish - PF 2500 – Power Finish Polish (PO203)
Finishing Polish - SF 4000 – Super Finish Polish (PO106FA)
1-Step -Duragloss 501
Sealant -Duragloss 105 TPP
Duragloss 601 Bonding Agent
Wax - Collinite 845
Spray Wax -Optimum Spray Car Wax
Tire Cleaner - Meguiar's Super Degreaser
Tire Treatment - CarPro PERL
Trim - Ultima Tire and Trim Guard
Wheel Cleaner - PoorBoy's World Wheel Cleaner
Wheel Protectant -Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0
Glass Cleaner - Meguiar's Glass Cleaner
Glass Treatment - Aquapel
All Purpose Cleaner - Optimum Power Clean
Interior Protectant - Meguiar’s M40
Chrome & Stainless Steel - BLACKFIRE Wet Diamond Metal Acrylic Sealant

[Shane4225]

Hey guys trying to decide on products to achieve a great shine. I've researched all kinds of products so far things I think may be what I want are

Griots paint prep,pre wax cleaner
Griots car wash
Chemical guys medium clay bar
Collinite insulator sealer
Wheel wax for the wheels
Possibly use the collinite to seal the wheel wax
Poor boys tire shine

[Shane4225]

Shane4225 (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/members/shane4225.html)
Junior Member

Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 2


Need help!
Hey guys trying to decide on products to achieve a great shine. I've researched all kinds of products so far things I think may be what I want are

Griots paint prep,pre wax cleaner
Griots car wash
Chemical guys medium clay bar
Collinite insulator sealer
Wheel wax for the wheels
Possibly use the collinite to seal the wheel wax
Poor boys tire shine

[Mike Phillips]

Hi Shane,

You really only need to start one thread for a single topic. Starting multiple threads for a single topic causes confusion. I've moved all your threads to this one...

Also, there's a tip in the article below that will help you on ANY forum that you start a new thread on...


How to write a good title for your thread (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/introduce-yourself/20306-how-write-good-title-your-post.html)







Hey guys I'm sure this is a question asked a million times but I'm trying to make a decision I'm all about achieving a glass like finish on my vehicles I was wanting to get some ideas as to great products for this.

So far I've kinda decided on,

Griots paint prep an wax prep
Chemical guys medium clay bar
Wheel wax for my wheels
An collinite insulater for my sealant
Any an all recommendations are appreciated




A glass-like finish or a super high gloss finish starts with doing two things,

1. Getting the paint as smooth as possible
2. Getting the paint as defect free as possible.

Gloss comes from smoothness and smooth paint comes from removing above surface bonded contaminants.

Making the paint look beautiful when working on a clear coat finish means making the clear layer as clear as possible you your eyes can see through the clear layer of paint to the color coat underneath it. This is done by polishing.

If you don't own a DA Polisher then you're going to want to get one. You can work by hand but clear coat paints are hard enough that trying to remove swirls and scratches by hand will take you a long time and that's if you're good at rubbing out paint by hand. Most people I meet are not good at it and it would take them a lifetime to create the kind of finish they could get by purchasing an entry level DA Polisher like the PC, Megs or Griot's versions.


Below is the link to an article I wrote that while the title indicates it's for people with brand new cars, the fact is you can follow all the tips, techniques and recommendations for ANY car.


How To Detail Your Brand New Car by Mike Phillips (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/54451-how-detail-your-brand-new-car-mike-phillips.html)


For example, this is an old truck, but it has a modern clear coat just like your 2006 vehicle. It did not look like this when it arrived but after going through the proper steps it left looking like this...


http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1290/54Ford50.jpg




:xyxthumbs:

[Shane4225]

Mike not only am I new to the forum but I posted each question in a valid forum to get max assistance since you would answer my question through a pm I've researched a lot on here you seem mostly bias to a lot off other products besides pinnacle I'm sure there is a good reason but I'm also very sure there are products as good as those at least according to most threads I have read on here so thank you for whatever input you tried to give me there cause I know the steps just looking for different PRODUCTS not telling me how to

[Mike Phillips]

Mike not only am I new to the forum but I posted each question in a valid forum to get max assistance since you would answer my question through a pm




I do get PM's everyday usually by people "new" to forums. My typing time is limited so management asks me to keep my "typing time" on the "public" forum not in a private message where more people can read the information and possibly also be helped versus in a private message only one set of eyeballs see the information.

I even have an article on this topic that explains it as kindly as possible.

Please ask your questions on the forum, not in a private message... (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/off-topic/53977-please-ask-your-questions-forum-not-private-message.html)


It's not that I don't want or can't answer questions in a private message it's just a better "leverage" of my time to work in the public side of the forum.


Makes sense?


As for posting to multiple forum groups that's not necessary and not good netiquette on any forum, I'm just telling you that to help you on this forum or any forum and it's the same thing I've been telling people new to forums since I started posting to forum over 10 years now...

I'm all about helping others and my posting history shows this on any forum.


Now to your questions...





I've researched a lot on here you seem mostly bias to a lot off other products besides pinnacle I'm sure there is a good reason but I'm also very sure there are products as good as those at least according to most threads I have read on here so thank you for whatever input you tried to give me there cause I know the steps just looking for different PRODUCTS not telling me how to




Which brand depends upon what you want to do, for example I wouldn't recommend a brand that caters to leather if you want to do paint polishing. When it comes to paint polishing everything we carry works and I do my best in all my car detailing projects to showcase a wide variety of brands, not just a single brand.


From one of your other posts...




Hey guys I'm sure this is a question asked a million times but I'm trying to make a decision

I'm all about achieving a glass like finish on my vehicles I was wanting to get some ideas as to great products for this.



So far I've kinda decided on Griots paint prep an wax prep
Chemical guys medium clay bar
Wheel wax for my wheels
An collinite insulater for my sealant


Any an all recommendations are appreciated



Out of the products, 1-4 you listed above, The Griot's paint prep and wax prep are two great products for chemically stripping your paint and preparing the surface for application of wax.

Griots Garage Pre-Wax Cleaner (http://www.autogeek.net/griots-pre-wax-cleaner.html)

Griots Garage Paint Prep (http://www.autogeek.net/griots-paint-prep.html)


IF the paint on your car in in excellent condition as described here,



Page 37 - Paint Condition Categories (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/51281-page-37-paint-condition-categories.html)


I reference this so much on this forum and other touch points that it's come to the point where it's going to make things faster for me while typing to have a dedicated page with the picture on it...

Page 37 - Paint Condition Categories

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1313/Page37ofBook.jpg





Then the above two products will certainly prep the paint for wax. Actually you really only would need to use the Griot's Garage Pre-Wax Cleaner.


If you see swirls in your car's finish and you want to remove them then you'll need more then some surface prepping products you'll need some type of paint polish of which Griot's makes 4 levels of different cutting polishes.

Griots Garage Set of 4 Machine Polishes (http://www.autogeek.net/griots-garage-polishes.html)


It would help a little if after you wash and dry and then inspect the paint in good light if you could tell us,

The current condition of the paint?
Your goal?

Do want shiny paint but don't care about removing swirls or do you want a swirl free finish? You can have it either way. Some people just want shiny, protected paint, some people are willing to do more steps to get more of a show car finish. It's all personal preference.

I previously included a link that shows you how to evaluate your car's finish for both above surface bonded contaminants and below surface defects.

Here it is in its entirety as I need to know the condition of your car's paint and your goal to make specific recommendation to help you reach your goals.



How To Detail Your Brand New Car by Mike Phillips (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/54451-how-detail-your-brand-new-car-mike-phillips.html)


Below is the order of steps to do to your brand new car, truck or sports utility vehicle. Note that even a brand new car may need some of the below procedures because car paint becomes contaminated while it's being shipped and while it's being stored.

Also, dealerships are notorious for putting their new cars through their own detail shop to get them ready to sell only to have their in-house detailers instill swirls and scratches at the same time they're supposed to be making the car look beautiful.

It's sad to say, but that's how the new and used car dealerships here in the United States work.

So after getting your brand new car, or your new-to-you used car home, here's what you do.


Wash and dry.
Inspect the paint with your sense of touch and visually in bright, overhead sunlight.
Iron X paint and wheels - Then re-wash to remove the Iron X residues off the paint and wheels.
Clay - If needed. Your inspection will tell you.
Polish - If needed. Your inspection will tell you.
Apply either a Car Wax or a Paint Sealant

Note: You really only need to use one type of protection product. Some people use two types but you don't have to. Instead you could apply two coats of the same product. Protection products include,





Car Waxes
Synthetic Paint Sealants
Paint Coatings




See this article for more information
3-Categories: Waxes, Paint Sealants and Coatings (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/34185-3-categories-waxes-paint-sealants-coatings.html)



How to inspect your car's paint after you have washed and dried it.
Watch the below short videos. In them, I show you how to inspect your car's paint. It is by inspecting your car's paint that you determine what needs to be done.


This is one of my better write-ups with over 100 high resolution pictures showing before, process and after shots. Here's the link to the entire thread.

1954 Ford F-100 - Extreme Makeover - Process and products used (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/pictures-autogeek-s-car-week/42270-1954-ford-f-100-extreme-makeover-process-products-used.html)



Here's what you want to do to any car that you're going to detail
First, wash and dry the car so you remove any loose dirt. This keeps you from rubbing the dirt into the paint when you feel it with your hand or a baggie for above surface bonded contaminants.

It also removes the dirt to get it out of the way so your eyes can SEE if there are any swirls in the paint.

So wash and dry first, then inspect with your sense of touch and visually with your eyes.




How to feel the paint with your hand to check and see if you need to clay the paint

1954 Ford F100 Show Truck Detailing Clay - YouTube




How to inspect the paint using the sun to check for swirls, holograms and scratches

1954 Ford F100 Show Truck Remove Holograms Swirls...



Your results and what to do?


Paints is in good shape
If the paint feels smooth as glass and if you don't see any swirls or scratches, or if swirls and scratches don't bother you then you can keep it simple and,

A: Apply a wax or paint sealant - Skip all other steps after washing and drying and inspecting.

B: Use a pre-wax cleaner and then apply a wax or paint sealant. A pre-wax cleaner, also called a paint cleaner simply ensures the paint surface is squeaky clean and clear and perfectly prepared to accept a wax or paint sealant. If you opt to use a paint coating you'll want to follow the manufactures directions for prepping the paint before applying the coating as directions vary.


Paints is in bad shape
If you discover the paint has above surface bonded contaminants then you need to clay the paint. You have two options,

Option 1: Wash and dry the car and then clay paint.
This is the normal way most people started their detailing project till products like Iron-X were introduced. That is after washing, drying and inspecting, if they felt contaminants on the paint they would move onto the claying step.


Option 2: Wash and dry the car and then use Iron-X to remove any iron particles and then re-wash the car to remove the Iron X residue and dissolved iron particles. Dry the car and then clay the paint.


The benefit this approach offers is,

IF there are any iron particles in your car's paint you will dissolve and remove them chemically with the Iron-X instead of abrading and pulling them out with clay and then potentially instilling swirls and scratches into the paint because now you have iron particles embedded into the clay that you're rubbing all over the paint.


Iron X = Insurance Policy
In my opinion, doing an Iron-X treatment to paint that you've never worked on before is a good idea, it's like an insurance policy. You buy insurance to protect ourself but you hope you never need it.

You use Iron-X JUST IN CASE there's any iron particles in the paint but you actually hope that there's not.

It's better to use Iron-X and NOT see the spray turn red than it is to see the spray turn read. Think about it, if it turns red that means there was iron particles in the paint, that's a bad thing. If it doesn't, it's whew... I got lucky.

Then after choosing and following the steps in one of the above options you move on to the next step, which is usually doing some type of correction work to the paint using a combination of compounds and polishes, or keep it simple and use what are called pre-wax cleaners or paint cleaners.

Both of these steps,


Correcting with compounds and/or polishes

OR (You don't do both, pick one or the other)

Using a Pre-Wax cleaner

Are done after the washing, claying steps and before the sealing step where you will apply your choice of a,




Car Wax
Synthetic Paint Sealant
Paint Coating



Each of the three categories above are different types of products that do the same general thing and that is leave a layer of protection on the paint to protect it and make the paint look good.

You only need to use one product from one of the three categories. You don't have to use products from more than one category although a lot of "Serious Car Enthusiasts" will as an option apply a synthetic paint sealant first for long lasting, durable protection and top this sealant with a coat of wax for aesthetics reasons, that is to make the paint look beautiful.

See this article,
Topping - Definition - How to Top also called Topping (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/40089-topping-definition-how-top-also-called-topping.html)



Maintaining your car
After all of the above is done, you can then maintain your car's finish using a combination of spray detailers and spray waxes or spray sealants.

A spray detailer is for removing,


Light dust
Fingerprints
Smudges
Clay Lube (when claying)

A spray wax or a spray sealant is typically a faster, shortcut way of restoring that just waxed look without having to actually get out a traditional liquid or paste type product. Instead you mist on the spray wax or spray sealant, spread it around and wipe it off in the same way you would use a spray detailers.

People get confused as to what the difference is between a spray detailer and a spray wax so here's the difference,

A spray detailer is for cleaning your car, getting dust of it without scratching the paint. A spray on wax or spray-on sealant is for adding more protection to paint that is ALREADY CLEAN, for example after you wash the car or AFTER YOU USE A SPRAY DETAILER.

Simple really, but for some reason a lot of people get confused over spray detailers and spray waxes.


I certainly don't want to scare anyone or make washing and waxing your car any more complicated than it has to be, I'm just trying to lay out ALL the various factors to consider if the car in question is important to you as well as your time and money/investment.


:xyxthumbs:

[Mike Phillips]

Here's the other products you listed...






Chemical guys medium clay bar
Wheel wax for my wheels
An collinite insulater for my sealant




Chemical Guys Medium Clay Bar.

Have not personally used this clay bar but a Medium Grade Detailing Clay will remove most of anything anyone wants to remove off their car's paint. Chemical Guys are a reputable brand so "YES" if you need clay this clay will work.

If you haven't already, do the Baggie Test and this will tell you if you need to clay or not.

The Baggie Test - How to inspect for above surface bonded contaminants (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/27967-baggie-test-how-inspect-above-surface-bonded-contaminants.html)


:xyxthumbs:

[Mike Phillips]

Chemical guys medium clay bar
Wheel wax for my wheels

An collinite insulater for my sealant


Next up you ask about Wheel Wax.


There are a number of wheel waxes on the market and any reputable brand will act to leave a protective coating on your car's wheels.

Here's the deal, after applying a wheel wax you now want to be careful how you wash it as some wheel cleaners are so powerful and effective that they can remove brake dust and wheel wax.

I would recommend two sugguestions...

First, consider using a product like Iron X to decontaminate your car's wheels.


Iron X Bleeding Effect While Cleaning Brake Dust Off Wheel (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-car-garage-how-videos/55555-iron-x-bleeding-effect-while-cleaning-brake-dust-off-wheel.html)



Dave parks his truck outside 24 hours a day, 7 days a week and he's not really into the appearance" aspect of car maintenance. He's a heck of a great welder just not much of a detailer...




Iron X Bleeding Effect While Cleaning Brake Dust Off Wheel




Iron X Bleeding Effect While Cleaning Brake Dust...



To me this is one of the most important procedures you can do to anything painted as it dissolves the iron particles out of the paint which prevents them from causing the paint to deteriorate.

As it relates to painted body panels on a car...
I've seen first hand the scratching inflicted into car paint when iron particles were in fact removed by claying. The clay removed the iron particles but because you're rubbing the clay over the paint during the process you can't help but to rub the iron particles over the paint and this is where the scratching comes from.

Then of course you have to machine compound the paint to remove the scratches. This removes paint and paint is already thin to start with. So it makes sense to dissolve the iron particles FIRST and then clay the paint.

Iron X isn't a replacement for tools like clay or the Speed Prep Towel for removing above surface bonded contaminants but instead is the a step you want to perform before claying.


Car Insurance
This is key, IronX is like Car Insurance. Car Insurance is a necessary evil. It's something you want to have but you never want to use it.

IronX products are the same way, you don't want to have iron contamination on your wheels or your painted body panels, but if you do have this type of contamination you want to remove it.

So if you spray IronX onto your wheels or body panels and don't see the bleeding-effect, don't feel let down, that's actually a good sign.

The IronX bleeding effect is like water beading,

It looks cool...


And it's intriguing to watch. But if you think about the ramifications of what seeing the bleeding effect means, it's not a good thing and thus you really don't want to see it.


Make sense?

I also share that in this article on how to wash your car. If you read the article, not simply scan it, you'll find the pertinent portion.

How to wash your car KISS style! (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/52981-how-wash-your-car-kiss-style.html)

KISS stands for Keep it Simple Simon


Look for the text before and after this picture...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1503/Gwash015.jpg




On Autogeek.net


CarPro IronX Products (http://www.autogeek.net/carpro-cquartz-products.html)





Second, consider using a coating instead of a wax to protect your wheels like we show in this live broadcast...

Video & Pictures - GTechniq Makeover - 2012 High Voltage Yellow Scion tC 7.0 (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/pictures-autogeek-s-car-week/52900-video-pictures-gtechniq-makeover-2012-scion-tc-7-0-a.html)



Here's the Live Broadcast Video showing tips and techniques for applying GTechniq's Advanced Coatings.



2012 High Voltage Yellow Scion - Gtechniq Show Car Makeover

2012 High Voltage Yellow Scion - Gtechniq Show...




Here's Rene applying the Gtechniq Wheel Armor...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1498/YellowScion08.jpg



http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/data/1498/YellowScion20.jpg




:xyxthumbs:

[Mike Phillips]

And then this last product category inquired about...



Hey guys I'm sure this is a question asked a million times but I'm trying to make a decision

I'm all about achieving a glass like finish on my vehicles I was wanting to get some ideas as to great products for this.



So far I've kinda decided on Griots paint prep an wax prep
Chemical guys medium clay bar
Wheel wax for my wheels
An collinite insulater for my sealant

Any an all recommendations are appreciated




Collinite Insulator Wax is legendary in the car detailing world for long lasting protection with a show car shine.

If you have not found Nick's awesome write-up on this product and you decide to got with this brand and product for your vehicle's finish I would recommend reading Nick's write-up.

Here's the link to his article,

Collinite #845: The Definitive How-To Guide For This Legendary Wax (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/40243-collinite-845-definitive-how-guide-legendary-wax.html)


http://autogeekonline.net/nick/Collinite/IMG_3358.JPG



Note this product is what I call a finishing wax, or a show car wax, that is it offers no cleaning ability in and of itself. So if you choose to use this wax be sure to first prep, clean and polish your car's paint till it's smooth and defect free before applying.



:xyxthumbs:

[BobbyG]

Holy smokes Mike, you've outdone yourself....:props:

Take the rest of the day off!! :cheers:

[Mike Phillips]

I have a lot on my plate this week plus a project or two...


:D

[Hoytman]

Holy smokes Mike, you've outdone yourself....:props:

Take the rest of the day off!! :cheers:


Holy Smokes I reckon he has outdone himself.

I've already fixed part of my own problem I was having. I think I'll just try and work the rest of it out on my own and give Mr. Phillips a break. Nice follow-ups, for sure.:xyxthumbs:

[Shane4225]

And then this last product category inquired about...




Collinite Insulator Wax is legendary in the car detailing world for long lasting protection with a show car shine.

If you have not found Nick's awesome write-up on this product and you decide to got with this brand and product for your vehicle's finish I would recommend reading Nick's write-up.

Here's the link to his article,

Collinite #845: The Definitive How-To Guide For This Legendary Wax (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/40243-collinite-845-definitive-how-guide-legendary-wax.html)


http://autogeekonline.net/nick/Collinite/IMG_3358.JPG



Note this product is what I call a finishing wax, or a show car wax, that is it offers no cleaning ability in and of itself. So if you choose to use this wax be sure to first prep, clean and polish your car's paint till it's smooth and defect free before applying.



:xyxthumbs:

Thanks I can for sure use all those tips thank you very much sir oh as far as paint condition one car has a fairly brand new paint job the other has age but is in great shape as you can tell I take special care of them it's like you stated in a video or forum your vehicle is a huge investment an you should take care of it thanks again