Pad priming

[Rastaral39]

Hello everyone, first question from me. been doing some detailing for about a year now with some great results on some nicer cars thanks to a lot of reading on this forum. My question is about pad priming. Maybe there is not one hard and fast rule. At first I started with the quick mist of the pad with pad primer then 4 dot method of product then went to it with good results. Then i started pad priming with product with good results. The other day i tried using a Green lake country polish/compound pad and tried the priming method of semi saturating with product [m105] and then going to it-well my Flex DA slung product everywhere. I have seen some video's where the method used was a light mist with pad prep and then a small amount of product, polish and work as normal. my question is which method is better and is it really necessary to prime pads with product? Seems like in the older videos pad priming with product was not done much. Maybe newer pad/product combo's have changed the need to do this.

[ihaveacamaro]

I think priming the pads is pretty necessary to ensure that you aren't dry buffing.

If you are having sling, try working the product into the pads with your fingers. Essentially your pad should be it's normal color on the top of the sides. Everywhere else should be the color of the product. After doing a section of that, go ahead and put the additional drops of product as necessary.

When buffing there should be a wet film of product behind the pad, or else you are dry buffing.

[Rastaral39]

Hmmm, tried that very method, the green pad i was using is fairly coarse, unlike the orange or white which seems to absorb better. worked it in with my fingers well, then got the sling. This perplexes me. I have seen video's from Adam's garage where a light sprits of conditioner is applied, a small amount of product, then spread on the car and proceeded to work it. Still confused but thx for the input. Anyone else care to chime in?

[vet]

First, Welcome!

I use the pad conditioner mist, then the product. If liquid, I usually spread the product on the pad after the dots. Also, 'kiss' the pad on the surface before starting the buffer.

It sounds like you may have put a little too much on the pad, and that's why you had sling. I'm no expert, but others will probably chime in with a remedy.

[tdrake2406]

First, Welcome!

I use the pad conditioner mist, then the product. If liquid, I usually spread the product on the pad after the dots. Also, 'kiss' the pad on the surface before starting the buffer.

It sounds like you may have put a little too much on the pad, and that's why you had sling. I'm no expert, but others will probably chime in with a remedy.

I agree with vet and also maybe try a low speed setting before you go full out. I always start low spread the product to the section I am going to work then turn it up and work it :buffing::buffing::buffing:

[Rastaral39]

Did that as well, started slow speed. maybe i spritzed a bit too much pad primer on as the M105 seemed a bit runny. i guess my question for clarification purposes having read your replies is really what is considered proper or standard- having a pad with product in it and primed or just with the other method, some product either the 4 dot pattern, an "X" pattern etc. since I have seen it and done it both ways, understanding the dry pad contact theory you would think just about everyone would fully prime their pad with product first. Thanks for all your replies!

[MarkD51]

Here's a question in regards to Pad Priming?

Will all of the different products such as a Polishes or Glazes, or Glaze/Polishes, wouldn't such as any Glaze types then require a smaller degree-amount of priming on any given Pad?

I ask this, and had asked this before in another thread, and it pertains to a product such as Wolfgang Finishing Glaze.

I've watched Mike P's various videos, and probably at this point, too many to count.

I seem to see a bit of variety with Mike's techniques of Pad Priming.

In particular, one Vid with Mike using the "Wolfgang Twins", and when it came to applying the Finishing Glaze on the Face of the Foam Pad, Mike applied about a 1/2 circle of product, about mid diameter on the Pad. It did not show him priming the Pad beforehand.

I gather there was good reason for this, for perhaps not over-priming a Pad with a Glaze type product in particular, as then the product never seems to end its work cycle, that you're buffing wet for eons it seems, and then the product seems to never begin to dry, and thus resulting in a shine appearing.

Am I correct with this thought, of not over-priming when using such a product?

I believe this might be one reaon why I did not attain proper results with the WGFG, as I had grossly over-applied the product, priming-smearing a light coat over the entire face of the Pad.

For this particular application, I should've used less product to start, correct? Mark

[sparklingwater]

Certain type of products are better for priming the pad. They are called lubricants and some products are now made specifically for pad priming. I use meguiars last touch spray . Not only is it crucial that any pad be primed and moist but you don't want the car to be blotchy and have a camoflauge look. If the pad is first primed properly you should get more of an even clear equal finish. Dry buffing can burn out pads quicker and it's not really doing anything helpful to the finish of the vehicle. Check out some videos about pad priming. The dot method is for after priming. I will spray meg last spray and very evenly prime the entire pad before I start. That way i don't have to stop so often. I personally also think when the prime is well primed it does a better job because it's hard to tell how much product is actually absorbed into the pad and doesn't actually make it's way onto the surface of the paint! Gluck

[Bunky]

I have just used a quick shot of detail spray to wet the pad.

You can apply your circle, x pattern, or similar method to put on the initial prime. I will spread it with the fingers into the face of the pd. Then place the pad against the paint and spread at low speed to prevent sling.

For subsequent panels, the amount you use depends on work area, etc. so you adjust to get good coverage.

[tuscarora dave]

It seems that everybody has their own preference concerning pad priming. I personally apply a very thin layer of compound\polish to my pad and go to polishing. In my experience, using some sort of QD or pad primer is not at all necessary and actually in most cases hyperlubricates the pad\product reducing the cut efficiency of the product.

[BillE]

Here's a question in regards to Pad Priming?


...In particular, one Vid with Mike using the "Wolfgang Twins", and when it came to applying the Finishing Glaze on the Face of the Foam Pad, Mike applied about a 1/2 circle of product, about mid diameter on the Pad. It did not show him priming the Pad beforehand.

... Mark

Not trying to answer for Mike, but last year I asked him about what appeared to him not priming a pad.

He answered (my words), "...due to time constraints while filming they will cut the 'pad priming' parts..."

Bill

[MarkD51]

Not trying to answer for Mike, but last year I asked him about what appeared to him not priming a pad.

He answered (my words), "...due to time constraints while filming they will cut the 'pad priming' parts..."

Bill

Thank you all again.

So, to perhaps summarize some of this topic, and some assumptions I am going to make right now, that in all instances, whether it be a Polish of varying agression, a Glaze, or a Wax, that it will be a safe bet to prime with the product that is in use.

Of course I'll again assume that experience with the different products will then let a user know whether they are under-priming, or over-priming a Pad, correct?

I seemed to have learned such recently, with the Wolfgang Finishing Glaze, that I grossly over-primed the pad and/or did not work the product long enough to get the desired results.

But to go on further, and to ask you folks about products such as the various brand Pad Conditioners, are these then too a safe bet on products like Polishes, and Glazes?

Is there any set rules? With the use of the various Pad Conditioners on a final Polish, or Glaze step, is it then required to again clean the paint in regards to the application of many of the synthetic sealants?

Will, or can such Pad Conditioners then hinder the proper bonding of the LSP such as a Sealant?

Thanks, Mark

[Rsurfer]

[SIZE=2]Will, or can such Pad Conditioners then hinder the proper bonding of the LSP such as a Sealant?

Thanks, Mark


That's why you do an IPA or Eraser wipe down before lsp.