Wolfgang Finishing Glaze Questions

[MarkD51]

Hello all,

In another thread, I made mention of the use of the WG Finishing Glaze as a follow up after WG Total Swirl Remover, and I made note of not noticing any further enhancement of the paint finish after the use of the Glaze.

So, hence, I have some questions about the product's use, but I should perhaps first start by explaining what tools-pads were used, and how I then used the product. This may help some.

I first used the WG TSR with a LC 4" CCS Orange Pad, with the PC7424XP at speed 5 on the dial.

After completion with the TSR, I then switched to a LC 4" CCS White Pad, and again used speed 5 on the dial.

I lightly primed the Pad with some of the glaze, then applied about a dime sized dollop, and polished with a light touch, medium-slow arm speed, overlapping.

The product never dried, seemed to stay damp after each section, and removed fairly easily.

Temps were mid 60's.

Was I using this product correctly? Was I using the correct Pad, the correct speed on the PC for this Finishing Glaze?

I seen a vid with Mike P using this product on a huge monstrous white Ford Pickup, he was demo'ing the product with a Mikita Rotary Polisher.

Although I understand the instuctions with the WG Finishing Glaze states it can also be used by hand, I'm a little confused about this product, and would like some suggestions, and advice to further understand its proper use.
Thanks, Mark

[cleanmycorolla]

WGFG 3.0 is a light polish. The directions state: Clean and dry the vehicle. Apply Wolfgang Finishing Glaze 3.0 out of direct sunlight.
Use a soft foam finishing pad. Apply a bead of polish to the vehicle. With the polisher turned off, spread the polish over about a 2 x 2 sq. ft. area.
Polish at 1000-1200 RPM (4 to 4.5 on a dual action polisher) working slowly across and then up and down the area. Check your work after several passes to see if the defects have been removed. If so, reduce the pressure and continue buffing until a high gloss is achieved. If the pad becomes dry, mist it with Wolfgang Instant Detail Spritz and continue buffing.

Pads and tools seem fine, perhaps tsr did all you needed and left a ice finish, i know when i use fg 3.0 i work it until it's clear, buff off, perhaps you didnt break down the abrasives all the way, thus being damp ater each section.

Keep practicing!

[Dr Oldz]

Some times it is very hard to see the difference from TSR to the finishing glaze. Especially if the vehicle is the white one in your avatar. Lighter colors will be harder to notice a difference. Direct sun or good light may show a difference. Some paint systems you will indeed notice a difference and others not. Not a bad thing, just a testament of what a good product TSR is.

[RMM]

Some times it is very hard to see the difference from TSR to the finishing glaze. Especially if the vehicle is the white one in your avatar. Lighter colors will be harder to notice a difference. Direct sun or good light may show a difference. Some paint systems you will indeed notice a difference and others not. Not a bad thing, just a testament of what a good product TSR is.

You can´t go wrong with Menzerna! :xyxthumbs:

[MarkD51]

Hello folks, Thank you all for your replies.

Before just coming back on this thread I started, I just ran through 13 pages in the Wolfgang Section, pulling up topics of interest, about useage, comments, and such, in particular, pertaining to the "Wolfgang Twins", and as well the DGPS.

And I think I've nailed it down to not so much being a bad selection of Pad Choice, speeds selected (well maybe speed) and Arm Speed.

Although my paint is looking truly nice, and appears correction was done quite well, I believe my major problems of not attaining the correct results with WGFG were both over-application of the product to the Pad per area, and not working the product long enough.

In retrospect, and re-assessing my procedures in my head, there are two reasons for this. 1. Lack of not having a lot of experience under my belt with the PC7424XP, and fear.

Yes, fear of working a product too long, and burning through the clear coat or worse. It's probably because I keep thinking back to the old days, and how one can get into deep trouble with a Rotary if they don't know what they're doing, or lose concentration for just a moment.

I watched a short vid way back in the archives, with a test, the PC against the Flex, and watched how such finishing glazes-polishes such as WG Finish Glaze "should" be used. I probably worked the product as little as a 1/3 of the time that this video had shown, and evidence of this was a lot of damp-wet product remaining on the paint, when I went to do a wipe off. Again, the two faults of mine were probably too much priming, and over application of product, and not enough work time to reap the final results of a higher gloss that this product is known to achieve.

All in all, probably no harm, no foul, and probably better to do less, than do too much, right folks?

As the old saying goes, Rome wasn't built in a day, and I'll have to get myself some more hands on experience, and practice to learn this system, its qualities, and refine, and perfect working with these products.

I'm sorry if I seem to be answering my own questions, but I am trying hard to think through the processes, and techniques, and I of course wish to excel at this, and do these processes correctly.
Mark