Old BMW: Just get me thru winter, then spring detail

[wikkid]

I need guidance for steps to take in cleaning and prepping for winter the neglected finish on my new-to-me 1991 BMW. It will sit out all winter and be driven, and although I wanted to dive right into a full detailing, I just haven't made the time this autumn. Here is a thread I started about the car: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/56656-1991-bmw-318i.html

Here is what I am thinking:
1. another good wash.
2. clay
3. This is where I am not so sure: should I use some sort of paint cleaner here before I go to something like KAIO, or would KAIO with a PC7424 and polishing pad be ok to get out deeply embedded dirt, before I go and put a sealant on the car for winter?
4. KAIO as above. Again, my concern is to get the paint as free of any embedded grunge as possible before I attack it with anything aggressive on a DA machine.
5. Sealant after KAIO?

I have only washed the car so far, right after I got it, and have been reading up, trying to get a feel for what I need to do. I want to do a more thorough compounding and full detail come spring, per the thread I linked above; without a garage to detail in, I just need to get it cleaned up and in ok shape to go through the winter, then I can strip off whatever sealants, etc. come spring, and go to in in full detail mode once the weather breaks.

[VP Mark]

That plan will work for you temporarily, but if you know how to do a full detail you are not going to be satisfied at all with the results. :)

Again, that would be fine for just getting you through the winter though.

[wikkid]

Yes, not needing great results, just wondering what step would be the right one after claying, to clean the paint a little more before applying a DA. This car was not owned by a "car person," as you can see in the pics - probably never got much love in the washing/detailing department, so I think the accumulated crud probably goes deep into the finish.

[vman]

Depending on where you live, I think you should just clay and seal the car. If you live in a snowy climate and salt is on the road, that's going to sit on your paint during the winter and you'll probably need to clean your paint again. So save the paint cleaning til your full detail and it'll save you time IMO.

[wikkid]

Oops - sorry all. I somehow ended up posting this topic twice, when I tried changing the thread title. Sorry for the confusion.

[theclock12]

That plan will work for you temporarily, but if you know how to do a full detail you are not going to be satisfied at all with the results. :)

Again, that would be fine for just getting you through the winter though.

Out of curiosity why wouldn't he be satisfied with the results at all...

[mwoolfso]

I need guidance for steps to take in cleaning and prepping for winter the neglected finish on my new-to-me 1991 BMW. It will sit out all winter and be driven, and although I wanted to dive right into a full detailing, I just haven't made the time this autumn. Here is a thread I started about the car: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/56656-1991-bmw-318i.html

Here is what I am thinking:
1. another good wash.
2. clay
3. This is where I am not so sure: should I use some sort of paint cleaner here before I go to something like KAIO, or would KAIO with a PC7424 and polishing pad be ok to get out deeply embedded dirt, before I go and put a sealant on the car for winter?
4. KAIO as above. Again, my concern is to get the paint as free of any embedded grunge as possible before I attack it with anything aggressive on a DA machine.
5. Sealant after KAIO?

I have only washed the car so far, right after I got it, and have been reading up, trying to get a feel for what I need to do. I want to do a more thorough compounding and full detail come spring, per the thread I linked above; without a garage to detail in, I just need to get it cleaned up and in ok shape to go through the winter, then I can strip off whatever sealants, etc. come spring, and go to in in full detail mode once the weather breaks.

Wikkid, your posts give me a sense you are willing to be patient. Assuming I am right then you are on the right track. KAIO being a cleaner/polish will definitely clean the paint. It will also correct minor imperfections but with the pics I saw you will still notice a significant amount of swirls and RIDS that need attention. This is what I recommend if you are sticking with Klasse:

1. WASH: with Dawn Ultra and some APC
2. CLAY
3. CLEAN/POLISH: Klasse AIO Polish w/PCXP and 2-3 Polishing Pads
4 SEALANT: Klasse KAIO Sealant/Glaze

The sealant will be needed to further protect the work you performed in #1-#3; in general terms this would apply in any situation or product.

I have nothing against Klasse at all; just no experience with it. This would be my approach taking into account your goals for this season:

1. WASH: with Dawn Ultra and some APC
2. CLAY
3. CLEAN/POLISH: Menzerna PO203 w/PCXP and Polishing Pad
4. Quick Detail: pick your poison; any Quick Detailer will do. You can even use the Clay Lube if you like.
5a. IPA Wipedown (10-parts water, 1-part 70% or 90% IPA)
5b. SEALANT: Optimum Opti-seal Spray Sealant

NOTE #1 - Regarding step #3, PO203 has fillers in it and will improve the look of your vehicle by hiding the swirls. It is Menzerna's AIO product. If you have time, you can break this stept step 3 into a correcting and polishing step by using an Orange Pad in your first buffing cycle and then moving to a polishing pad on a second cycle. This will almost double the amount of time you will spend on this step but you may like the results better. Personally, I would do this 2-pass approach on the horizontal surfaces and leave the verticals with a 1-pass approach. Varying the approaches this year will help you understand and fine-tune your correction approach for next year as well.

NOTE #2 - Regarding step #5, before you spray Opti-seal on a panel, just do a quick pass with IPA to ensure all polishing oils are removed, wait a minute or so to ensure the IPA fully dissipates and then apply the Opti-seal. IPA is really cheap but if you have money to burn then CarPro Eraser will fit the bill as a great replacement.

NOTE #3 - Next year when you are ready to do a correction the only thing you would need to do with the above approach is add a compounding step before #3. And, based on your personal preference you can add a waxing step #6 to add some variety.