Winter prep help for abused finish

[wikkid]

I need guidance for steps to take in cleaning and prepping for winter the neglected finish on my new-to-me 1991 BMW. It will sit out all winter and be driven, and although I wanted to dive right into a full detailing, I just haven't made the time this autumn. Here is a thread I started about the car: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/56656-1991-bmw-318i.html

Here is what I am thinking:
1. another good wash.
2. clay
3. This is where I am not so sure: should I use some sort of paint cleaner here before I go to something like KAIO, or would KAIO with a PC7424 and polishing pad be ok to get out deeply embedded dirt, before I go and put a sealant on the car for winter?
4. KAIO as above. Again, my concern is to get the paint as free of any embedded grunge as possible before I attack it with anything aggressive on a DA machine.
5. Sealant after KAIO?

I have only washed the car so far, right after I got it, and have been reading up, trying to get a feel for what I need to do. I want to do a more thorough compounding and full detail come spring, per the thread I linked above; without a garage to detail in, I just need to get it cleaned up and in ok shape to go through the winter, then I can strip off whatever sealants, etc. come spring, and go to in in full detail mode once the weather breaks.

[BillyJack]

Given your objectives, I think you're on the right track with clay, an once-over with an AIO and some wax to get you thru the winter. I've done winter preps on two of my cars that stay outside 24/7. The older one got Meg's D151and the newer one got DG501 (not as much cut, but great cleaning ability on white BMW paint). I've not used Klasse, but the two products I've mentioned have done an excellent job as paint cleaners. Both got topped with Collinite 476. Based on my experience with 845 for the past two winters, I expect both will still be beading in March. At that time I'll assess the winter damage, if any, and proceed with appropriate steps in the spring.

Bill

[BobbyG]

I agree with Bill and you're probably best off cleaning it up and protecting it for winter.

Basic steps in order are:


Wash
Clay
Paint Correction & Polish
Seal
Wax


Wash - Performing a regular wash using warm water and your favorite car wash if a great place to begin. This will dissolve and remove contamination making the finish ready for claying. Use a small brush and clean around trim, emblems, and those hard to clean areas.

Clay - Claying is the next important step in this process. Always use plenty of lubricant and work on one section at a time to ensure it's clean and smooth before moving on..

Cleaner - Use a quality paint cleaner that contains some abrasives. These cleaners are formulated with chemicals that will remove deeply embedded crime and stains while the abrasives work on correcting minor surface defects.

Products to try


Optimum GPS Glaze Polish Sealant (http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-gps.html)
Duragloss 501 (http://www.autogeek.net/duragloss-marine-rv-polish--501.html)
Meguiar's D151 Paint Reconditioning Cream (http://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-paint-reconditioning-cream-d151.html)
BLACKFIRE Total Polish & Seal, polish and wax, cleaner wax, car polish (http://www.autogeek.net/blackfire-total-polish-seal.html)

Use an Orange or Green pad to apply these products. Set the speed to 5, place the pad on the surface, then turn it on. Work a 2 X 2 section using a criss-cross pattern and check the pad occasionally keeping it clean.

Sealant - Sealants go a great job at providing long term protection against the elements and get you through a long hard winter. Sealants bond with the finish rather than sit on it.

Apply sealants with a blue or red foam pad on speed 3. You'll be surprised how evenly sealants lay down using this method and how uniform the product is applied.

Sealants to try


Menzerna Power Lock (http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-power-lock-sealant.html)
Prima Hydro Sealant (http://www.autogeek.net/prima-hydro-seal.html)
Four Star Sealant (http://www.autogeek.net/four-star-ultimate-paint-protection.html)
Blackfire Wet Diamond Sealant (http://www.autogeek.net/blackfire-wet-diamond-sealant.html)
Klasse High Gloss Sealant (http://www.autogeek.net/klashiggloss.html)
Ultima Paint Guard Plus (http://www.autogeek.net/ultima-paint-guard-plus.html)
Duragloss 601 Bonding Agent (http://www.autogeek.net/duragloss-polish-bonding-agent.html)
Duragloss 105 TPP (http://www.autogeek.net/duragloss-total-performance-polish.html)
Optimum Opti-Seal (http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-opti-seal.html)
Sonus SFX-4 Sealant (http://www.autogeek.net/sonus-sfx-4-paint-sealant.html)

Wax - Waxes like Collinite 845 provide the best protection for minimal cost.

Work on one panel at a time and refine your process then apply this to the rest of the car. You'll be surprised how different each panel will look once your finished. :props:

[primo spaghetti]

KAIO is a decent paint cleaner...and while it will not give you much (if any) correction, it will leave the paint LSP ready for a wax or sealant.

coll 845 is a cheap and durable product along with the DG products listed above. also klasse makes sealant glaze which is pretty good too, but must be put on very thin or else it is a bit tough to remove the haze.

[Johny B]

I agree with Bill and you're probably best off cleaning it up and protecting it for winter.

Basic steps in order are:


Wash
Clay
Paint Correction & Polish
Seal
Wax

Wax - Waxes like Collinite 845 provide the best protection for minimal cost.





+1

[Alvin]

I will agree with everybody some what, A good wash and a good claying, to remove as much above surface contanimates. My choice for AIO, would be optimum polli-seal. You can work it with a DA, or by hand. You will get good results with it. Then top with optimum car wax. I used this on a F150 silver and a black ford explorer, and I do get good results.