Harley Davidson Road King - extensive detail with EXO

[rmagnus]

So what did you use on that Barbie car (last pic first post)?

I've done a lot of Harley's prefer not too anymore. In fact I sold my last bike and am okay with that closing that chapter for the third time in my life. You did a great job on it.

I do have a recommendation; drape a sheet or tarp on a cloths line as a back drop for your pictures in the garage. You can even drape one in the foreground and around the wheels. The background gets too busy for such beautiful work you did on that bike.

[TrKent]

So what did you use on that Barbie car (last pic first post)?

I've done a lot of Harley's prefer not too anymore. In fact I sold my last bike and am okay with that closing that chapter for the third time in my life. You did a great job on it.

I do have a recommendation; drape a sheet or tarp on a cloths line as a back drop for your pictures in the garage. You can even drape one in the foreground and around the wheels. The background gets too busy for such beautiful work you did on that bike.

I prefer not to release information on the top secret products used on the Barbie car. ;)

Really enjoyed this, it was fairly clean to begin with though

Know what you mean by the background, the reason the garage has been so crazy the past few months is because of moving and parents separating. This week is the week we're going to clear all of the junk out.

Thanks for the compliments!!

[TrKent]

Video finished!!

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yk4_Ea8eLgA]Harley Davidson Road King with EXO - YouTube[/video]

[TrKent]

morning bump

[TLMitchell]

Products were a combination of Menz 2500 and M205 (some areas seemed to react differently. Then finished with Menz 4500. I was trying to hold out to get my Rupes LHR75 to do this job but wound up having to use my 7424 with a 3" backing plate. (My Rupes come in tomorrow!!!) LC Hydrotech Orange for 2500 & 205 and Red for 4500. I don't want to say this paint was easy to correct, but knowing it was a very soft paint definitely helped when getting into it.

There's a definite difference in paint on tin vs fiberglass. I'm betting you found the fiberglass side covers easy to correct and finish. The tin on baggers is formed and finished at the York, PA plant, the fiberglass comes out of Tomahawk, WI. Obviously different processes. I couldn't get 205 to finish without micromarring no how, no way. On my dresser there's lots of fiberglass bags and front fairing... easy correction. The tank had me pulling my hair out!

I picked up a technique Nick Chapman posted on MOL quite a while ago for use on soft black that is difficult to finish. He tried everything in his considerable arsenal and just for grins tried a yellow cutting pad with 205 and got mirror results. Who woulda thunk it? I've since started thinking backwards with extremely soft finishes... finishing polish with a cutting pad or M105 with a finishing pad. Surprisingly good results.

Wiping off polish or wax residue was problematic because of the marring imparted by even the softest plushest microfibers. I now spritz liberally with M34 and use my softest waffle weaves to remove residue from the softest finishes with good results. And Opti Coat seems to toughen things up to keep future swirling to a minimum.

OC also works primo on chrome exhausts and other super-hot areas where conventional waxes, sealants and other coatings burn off the first time they get warmed up. 6 months later it's still on my exhausts and even makes melted boot marks a wipe-off affair.


Maybe i'm just weak, I can barely stand it straight up without a big struggle which would make me look ridiculous at stop lights.

Like I sezzed, technique and practice. The AMA has a demonstration where a little bitty 110 pound girl shows you how to pick up a heavy Touring bike laying on it's side. And moving anything on two wheels around when you're standing beside it can be challenging. I always throw a leg over and move my bikes around the garage while sitting on 'em and I've been doing this for almost 40 years. It only takes dropping one once to convince you. Don't ask how I know this :doh:

TL

[TrKent]

You're right that the side covers were easy to correct, they were just a bit difficult to get in all of the awkward angles. I wasn't sure how to take those side bars off so I used m105 by hand directly underneath it where the buffer couldn't reach.

Going to a body shop tomorrow to pick up some spare panels and will be experimenting and trying a bunch of new techniques pretty soon. That compound/finishing pad - polish/compound pad technique is definitely worth a shot! Lately I've been reading through a lot of Kevin Brown's material.

Do you know what the temperature limits are for OC? C1 is 300 degrees C or 572F

[TLMitchell]

You're right that the side covers were easy to correct, they were just a bit difficult to get in all of the awkward angles. I wasn't sure how to take those side bars off so I used m105 by hand directly underneath it where the buffer couldn't reach.

Good idea to have the owner remove anything that needs removed.... seat, bags, console, side covers etc. Parts are pricey if you break something. You probably know by now but the covers simply pull straight off... they're held be 3-point plastic male fittings on the cover that go into 3 rubber female plugs. Pulling straight is essential.. they used to be metal. If the plastic male fittings break the entire cover has to be replaced :-[

Doing what you can mounted on the bike isn't a bad idea. Those covers won't sit still for a machine correction, you have to try and hold them between your knees to work on 'em.


Do you know what the temperature limits are for OC? C1 is 300 degrees C or 572F

No clue. Chris Thomas claimed OC cures faster with heat and responded that chrome exhausts would be a perfect application for OC. I agree.

TL

[Drew847]

Reminds me of when I detailed a rocket and the owner asked for me to use tire shine :bash:

Great Job, the Harley looks awesome!!

[Opiy]

Great thread and thanks for the video. What is OC that you two are talking about? Also I looked for the Gtechniq C1 but only found GTechniq C1.5 Silo Seal, is this the same product just an updated version? Thanks!

[vet]

Great job on that Harley!

I knew a woman back in the early 70s that had a big Harley. She always said if it tipped over, she'd never be able to pick it, up. She said she solved the problem by making sure she didn't tip it over!

[TrKent]

Great thread and thanks for the video. What is OC that you two are talking about? Also I looked for the Gtechniq C1 but only found GTechniq C1.5 Silo Seal, is this the same product just an updated version? Thanks!

OC stands for Opti-Coat: Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 Permanent Paint Coating (http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-opti-coat.html)

On AG C1 is only sold with C1.5: Gtechniq Crystal Lacquer + Silo Seal Kit (http://www.autogeek.net/gtechniq-c1-silo-kit.html)

If you are not using EXO, you should top C1 with Silo Seal to add the slick finish that you get from a wax or sealant. C1 by itself is very smooth but not very slick. As in, the back of your fingers do not glide over the surface like with a wax or sealant.

While AG doesn't carry this, C2 can be diluted 1:20 as a quick-detailer to be used as a drying aid for C1 & EXO


Great job on that Harley!

I knew a woman back in the early 70s that had a big Harley. She always said if it tipped over, she'd never be able to pick it, up. She said she solved the problem by making sure she didn't tip it over!

That is definitely the best solution to the problem!! :xyxthumbs:


btw, here is another Harley you all might like:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/58153-dream-detail-coming-soon-harley-skulls-inside-2.html#post781349

and the video for that one:

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EmFxJsc5nxE]Harley Davidson Fat Boy 1/200 Skull Paint Set with EXO - YouTube[/video]

[gdal]

Amazing work Travis.