How can I tell when to add more product to foam pad?

[NemoDat]

Today I started a cut polish job, my first time doing this type of work. Fortunately, everything is going well so far. I started with cutting compound and then used a polish.

How do I know when to add more product (assuming further work is needed)? What should I be watching for in terms of the appearance of the car's surface, or the surface of the pad?

Based on what the vendor told me, I think I'm using more cutting compound than I needto - for example, I'm having to rub the surface down quite hard to remove the excess progress, in order to see the paint and monitor my progress.

Any advice is greatly appreciated. I can post details of product and machine used if that's useful.

Thanks!
ND

[kemefk]

Usually, when you see the compound go from a haze to clear on the car's surface, the compound has broken down enough that you could remove it. It seems to me that you might be working the compound until it is completely dry and that is why it is very difficult for you to remove it. When the compounds turns clear, stop working it and then remove it. Some compounds like Meguiars M105 have very short work times while others like Menzerna have a lot of oils in it which allow for more work time plus also can ease compound removal. If removing the compound is still difficult, use a little detail spray and then wipe it off. It will make compound removal much easier.

[Ryry11]

I agree with kemefk. Also, if you don't have a trail of product following your buffer, you need to add more product.

[Mike Phillips]

I agree with kemefk. Also, if you don't have a trail of product following your buffer, you need to add more product.


See this thread and the pictures showing a wet film a product behind your path of travel...


Wet Buffing Technique (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/tricks-tips-techniques/36237-wet-buffing-technique.html)



The above can be found in my article list here under DA Polishers. By the way, what type of polisher and products are you using?


Articles by Mike Phillips (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/23722-articles-mike-phillips.html)



:)

[NemoDat]

Hi everyone,

Thanks alot for all the advice, that helps alot. I took a look at Mike's post. At one point he says this: "As you're making a single pass with the polisher, the paint behind the path-of-travel should have a visible wet film on it. If the paint behind the pad is dry and shiny, you've run out of lubrication and you're dry buffing."

So what if the paint behind the pad is dry but NOT shiny? My experience has been that the compound starts off milky and wet, but eventually a satin finish develops -- there's still product on the car surface...it's no longer wet but its not shiny either.

Thanks again,

[kemefk]

Do you mind sharing which compound and polish you use? It might help us answer your question specifically for you. Thanks.

[NemoDat]

By the way, what type of polisher and products are you using?:)

Hi Mike, I'm using the following Car Beauty Pro products:

1. R-26 Clear Cut Clearcoat Cleaner
2. P-8-Q Allura Finish Glaze
3. P-9-Q Allura Final Finish Wax

This is a my first outing and being done on my old commuter which is full of scratches -- so it's not the end of the world if I make some beginner mistakes, and so far things are going well. To keep my costs down, I'm using a Simoniz 7" machine.

Thanks,
NemoDat

[NemoDat]

Do you mind sharing which compound and polish you use? It might help us answer your question specifically for you. Thanks.

Hi Kemefk: Please see below and my earlier post to Mike. BTW, the consensus online about my Simoniz is that it's a rebranded WEN 2 speed polisher rotary. It's definitely a budget model.

Here's some more info on the products I found on the manufacturer site:

1. Car Beauty Pro R-26 Clear Cut Clearcoat Cleaner
"Medium duty, creamy machine cleaner formulated for use on factory applied and refinish clear coat paints. Synthetic micro abrasives quickly and safely remove new car finish blemishes, acid rain damage, water spots, light to moderate oxidation and 1200-1500 grit wet sand scratches. Leaves a clean, glossy surface that is ready for polishing.CONTAINS NO WAX OR SILICONE. Available in pint and gallon sizes.VOC COMPLIANT. Meets CARB/OTC Regulations. (http://www.prowax.com/1_VOC_Compliant.html)"

FROM: PRO Car Beauty Products: P-26 CLEAR-CUTâ„¢ COMPOUND (http://www.prowax.com/bodyshop/P-26_Clear-Cut.html)

2. Car Beauty Pro Allura P-8-Q Finish Glaze
"Allura™ Finish Glaze is designed to remove and fill wet sanding scratches, swirl marks and other lights defects after compounding in one easy step.

This body shop safe machine glaze removes 2000 grit & finer sand scratches and other paint defects from all types of paint finishes. Also repairs cob web scratches, micro scratches and swirl marks after compounding. Its non-silicone, non-wax formula buffs fast and easy with very little dust. Natural oils brighten color and restore depth & clarity. Produces a durable, high gloss finish. Safe for all OEM and refinish paints. Light pink in color with cherry fragrance. For hand or machine use. BODY SHOP SAFE. CONTAINS NO SILICONE OR WAX. VOC COMPLIANT.
• Use a high speed buffer with a BV-85-C PRO® Eliminator™ Blue Foam Polish Pad
• Follow with P-9-Q Allura™ Final Finish Wax for long term protection"
FROM: PRO Car Beauty Products: P-8-Q Allura™ Finish Glaze (http://www.prowax.com/allura/P-8-Q_Finish_Glaze.html)

3. Car Beauty Pro Allura P-9-Q Final Finish Wax

"Allura™ Final Finish Wax provides excellent gloss and wax protection on all automotive paint finishes.

This is an easy to use, premium carnauba creme wax developed for body shop use. Formulated to enhance color and achieve an ultra rich, deep gloss shine. Offers safe, long-term protection on all OEM and fresh cured refinish paints. Hides hairline scratches and adds brilliant color depth & high gloss to OEM and refinish paints. Mild cleaning agents remove surface contaminants while offering long term protection for lasting beauty. Light yellow in color with a pleasant banana fragrance. For hand or machine use. BODY SHOP SAFE. CONTAINS NO SILICONE. VOC COMPLIANT.
• For best results, pre-clean fi nish using Allura™ P-8-Q Finish Glaze to remove minor contaminants and condition paint
• Use a high speed buffer with a WV-85-C PRO®Eliminator™ White Foam Final Finish Pad"
FROM: PRO Car Beauty Products: P-9-Q Allura Final Finish Wax (http://www.prowax.com/allura/P-9-Q_Final_Finish_Wax.html)

Thanks again,
ND

[kemefk]

I would say that if the trails behind the pad is non-existent, then it is time for you to remove it. I only see the shine after I remove the spent product. I use M105 for compounding and when the pad trails are gone, I will remove it but if I want to work the product a little longer, I'll mist it with a little water. From my experience with a rotary buffer ( I have a cheap HF rotary), when the product is completely dry, the pad becomes more grabby and it becomes difficult to control so if you remove the product before that happens, you should be in good shape. I am just hoping that after you wipe off the spent products, that your car then shines.:props: Good luck!

[NemoDat]

kemefk: I know exactly what you mean about more "grabby" - I noticed a few times that the pad wasn't gliding across the surface, but bit into the surface and starting to run away across the surface -- presumably because it was too dry. So if nothing else, I know to add more product at that point. Thanks for the encouragement, so far it's going well [insert emoticon for crossed fingers/knock on wood here !!]

[kemefk]

One point of advice which I learned the hard way with my rotary. After you are done compounding, clean your pad before you apply more product. With M105 if i didn't clean the pad, the product would gum up on the panel and it would be a PITA to take off. If you clean the pad and often, you will really notice how smooth it is to use a rotary buffer. You could use a the plastic spur that AG sells or just use a nylon brush to clean it off.