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master_photog
10-31-2012, 08:04 PM
Hey guys, I have a new vehicle and would like to know what my best protection products are and how you would go about caring for a non-garage kept vehicle.

This will not be a daily driver, but will be exposed to the great Midwest weather.

I'd like to know what products you would use and what frequency in order for the truck to maintain it's new condition as long as possible.

Thanks for your help!!

http://www.cs2photography.com/new_truck.jpg

david11g35
10-31-2012, 08:10 PM
opti coat 2.0

Rsurfer
10-31-2012, 08:15 PM
Hey guys, I have a new vehicle and would like to know what my best protection products are and how you would go about caring for a non-garage kept vehicle.

This will not be a daily driver, but will be exposed to the great Midwest weather.

I'd like to know what products you would use and what frequency in order for the truck to maintain it's new condition as long as possible.

Thanks for your help!!

http://www.cs2photography.com/new_truck.jpg

You do know that Tundra has no clear coat? Not that it matters, but you don't want that single stage paint to oxidize. If it was my truck sitting out 24/7 I would apply Optimum Opti Coat. If you like to wash every week and apply a wax/sealant every month or two, I would go with Blackfire Wet Diamond Sealant or Menzerna Power Lock. Congrats on your new truck.

ihaveacamaro
10-31-2012, 08:29 PM
opti coat 2.0

+1

Alvin
10-31-2012, 09:43 PM
I agree with opti coat 2.0 or my choice would be optimum spray wax a little goes a long way

Rayaz
10-31-2012, 11:50 PM
My son has an "outside" 2012 white Tacoma. I did the prep and applied Opticoat to every outside surface except glass when it was new last January. It looks like the day I did it with a simple 2 bucket wash and it beads so well, a leaf blower will dry the whole thing without spots.

I also did a metallic gray 12 Honda CRV the week before for my daughter-in-law. Same deal, like the day they bought them. It's not as hard to do as you may read. I totally psyched myself out about it because it's permanent but it's pretty easy once you get going. You will probably use less than 1/2 the syringe. I called Optimum and Dr. Ghodussi himself called me back to answer my questions and give me some factoids (it takes 30 days to fully cure for instance). I can't recommend it highly enough!

They are right about Toyota white, single stage, no clear. We were lucky enough to get one from Flagstaff where the dealer had yet to install any optional swirls. Light polish (for gloss only) IPA wipe down and good to go. Nice truck you have BTW.

master_photog
11-01-2012, 03:41 AM
My son has an "outside" 2012 white Tacoma. I did the prep and applied Opticoat to every outside surface except glass when it was new last January. It looks like the day I did it with a simple 2 bucket wash and it beads so well, a leaf blower will dry the whole thing without spots.

I also did a metallic gray 12 Honda CRV the week before for my daughter-in-law. Same deal, like the day they bought them. It's not as hard to do as you may read. I totally psyched myself out about it because it's permanent but it's pretty easy once you get going. You will probably use less than 1/2 the syringe. I called Optimum and Dr. Ghodussi himself called me back to answer my questions and give me some factoids (it takes 30 days to fully cure for instance). I can't recommend it highly enough!

They are right about Toyota white, single stage, no clear. We were lucky enough to get one from Flagstaff where the dealer had yet to install any optional swirls. Light polish (for gloss only) IPA wipe down and good to go. Nice truck you have BTW.


Thanks Rayaz, I know what you mean about "totally psyching yourself out". I am looking for a competent person to do this in my area due to being uncomfortable with the potential of getting bad results if I do it myself. I'll check out some youtube videos and try to determine a comfort level of applying myself.

Thanks!!

BillyJack
11-01-2012, 06:59 AM
There's no doubt about OC being the best route for protection. If you are more comfortable with conventional waxes or sealants and don't mind maintaining the finish 3-4 times per year, I'd go with DG 501/601 as a cleaner, then top it with Collinite, 845 if working by hand or 476 if by machine. IMO, that combo is about as bulletproof as you can get for a DD without going the coating route.

Bill

KneeDragr
11-01-2012, 07:45 AM
You do know that Tundra has no clear coat?

Where did you get this information?

GS2011
11-01-2012, 08:44 AM
You do know that Tundra has no clear coat? .

Just curious, is this true of all Toyotas? I have a 2006 black RAV4 that is used as a DD, but garage kept. So far, paint has held up pretty well with no evident oxidation.

Chris's FX4
11-01-2012, 10:40 AM
The Toyota single stage paint thing is all over the internet.

White is Single Stage w/no clear coat-per toyota (http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tundra/178147-white-single-stage-w-no-clear/)

FUNX650
11-01-2012, 10:47 AM
Where did you get this information?

Just curious, is this true of all Toyotas? I have a 2006 black RAV4 that is used as a DD, but garage kept. So far, paint has held up pretty well with no evident oxidation.
Typical of a Toyota paint-code: 3C8
Doesn't tell you a whole lot about the paint-system!!

1.) OEM's issue TSB's for their dealerships' collision/refinishing departments, that will include the
paint-codes and refinishing-codes from 4-5 paint manufacturers/vendors.
Therein lies the paint systems' specific-types: SS vs. CC

2.) Another way: If the Toyota's paint description includes any of the following words...
it is quite indicative of having a CC top-film:
-Mica; Metallic; Metallic Cladding; Pearl; Frost Pearl; Pearl Mica; Opalescent

Examples:
033 White...No CC
042 White Pearl Mica...CC
051 Diamond White Pearl...CC

202 Black...No CC
204 Black Metallic...CC
205 Satin Black Metallic...CC

BTW:3C8= Wine Red Metallic...CC

3.) No doubt there may be exceptions to the above...If still unsure:
-"Test-Spot" Toyota-paint using your polish on a contrasting color applicator/pad/cloth...


Too bad Toyota's paint-codes (on the placard, driver's-side door jamb) are not as easy to
discern as, say, GM's designation/inclusion of: BC/CC...(usually on placard inside of the glovebox).



:)

Bob

Rsurfer
11-01-2012, 01:18 PM
Just curious, is this true of all Toyotas? I have a 2006 black RAV4 that is used as a DD, but garage kept. So far, paint has held up pretty well with no evident oxidation.

It's only the super whites..the pearls have clear coat.

pcw25
11-01-2012, 02:29 PM
It's only the super whites..the pearls have clear coat.

I've polished my Camry (super white) and have never seen white show up on my pad...

master_photog
11-02-2012, 04:06 AM
There's no doubt about OC being the best route for protection. If you are more comfortable with conventional waxes or sealants and don't mind maintaining the finish 3-4 times per year, I'd go with DG 501/601 as a cleaner, then top it with Collinite, 845 if working by hand or 476 if by machine. IMO, that combo is about as bulletproof as you can get for a DD without going the coating route.

Bill




Bill, I like this approach for now, since we're getting close to winter, this process seems like I can eliminate a couple steps when comparing to the opti coat 2.0 route.

I'll have a little more time this Spring to really take my time and consider the opti 2.0 application.

I currently have a lot of Meguiars M20 Polymer Sealant, can this be used instead of the Collinite 476 or is the Collinite a much better choice in this scenario of a new, non-garage kept vehicle?

I do have the PC7424XP too!!

Thanks!!